RexAshton

If you go for the Megapoints board you can also set it up for random signal bounce.

I'm using HK15178 on an exhibition layout with a Megapoints controller. Easy to set up, cost effective and reliable.

If you're doing it by eye the main thing is to ensure that the wheels are 90 degrees or slightly over especially on 4 or 6 coupled chassis. If you're using Gibson etc fit thye first pair into the chassis and fix to the axle with Loctite 601 or similar. For the second axle, fit one wheel with loctite. Locate it into the chassis and fit the second wheet. Using the coupling rods push the chassic forward and backwards adjusting the un-Loctited whee luntil it runs without any binding. When you're happy Loctite it in place and move onto the third axle and so on. This means that you are only ever adjusting one wheel at a time. If you've got more than one chassis to do forget all this and take the advice from other posters - buy the GW models quartering jig. It's worth every penny.

Having looked at a couple of drawings I think 're going to struggle. The mods to the body alone are difficult to say the least. The front splasher would have to go. probably requiring the smolkebox to be rebuilt. Obviously removing the splashers would mean repairs to the footplate as well. The remaining splashers - centre and cab - are too small for an E4 and would need replacing - by no means impossible but probably not easy. The loco chassis would need new driving wheels and the front bearings would need replacing to accommodate the smaller axle diameter of the bogie wheels. The tender wheelbase is slightly different but I'm assuming from yout question you'd be prepared to accept the relatively slight discrepency. None of the above is to say that a reasonable out come wouldn't be possible but it's a lot of work.

Worth a look here

In the photos above I used Railmatch clear matt acrylic varnish but any good photo fixative will do. Try art shops for fixative, Fox Transfers or Squiers etc for Railmatch.

I agree with all the above. You do need to use artist's watercolour pencils. They allow you to blend the colours better as the pigment is softer than ordinary coloured pencils and if you're not happy with the initial results the surface can be sponged off without affecting the mortar layer below. I was taught by Ken Ball years ago at an exhibition. The photos below show my efforts. The houses are Wills kits while the mill building was scratchbuilt using Slaters Plastikard. The Wills was easier as the surface texture is rougher.

There's really no point in working out mathematical scale speeds unless you are lucky enough to have a mathematically scale layout. Most if not all layouts are compressed to a degree which is bound to impact on the visual impression of speed. In reality a train travelling at a scale 60MPH on a layout that is compressed will appear to be travelling faster and will probably look wrong. If it looks right it probably is.

I've done that on a couple of locos. It works well but it's worth investing in a Romford screwdriver to fit them if you don't have one.The end fits into the two slots in the crankpin to drive them in properly.

Just a very satisfied customer here. This is supplied from the UK, runs on 240 volts and does everything I ask. I got one of these four years ago to replace my trusty but very old Antex (blown transformer) to keep me going until I could get a proper replacement. Never bothered getting the replacement.Good price too.

Having dc operation on in cv29 can cause running problems with some Bachmann models. Try using the calculator here and turn dc off. Unless you really need dc operation on it's best to turn it off in all cases. Also, there's a general recommendation that the factory fitted supression should be removed when converting to DCC as the decoder has its own built in and can be confused by the pressence of the capacitors on the motor.

You could try water colour pencils over an acrylic mortar wash. If you're not happy it's easy to wash it off and start again. Once you've got the effect you're after a spray of matt varnish will seal it in place. These were builkt from Wills kits and use vermillion, madder carmine and black.

My understanding was that, as in 00 British loading gauge meant that the models would have been too small for the available mechanisms if we had adopted the continental scale of H0. The extra linear scale of 4mm :1' allowed the use of standard motors. The same would have been the case in the early days of what would become N Gauge where many of the kits available at the time were designed for continental chassis which because of their larger loading gauge could be fitted in at a more accurate scale. I could of course be completely wrong!

Hi All I'm just starting an EM model from the M&L Premier Kits Dean 4-2-2. It looks like a very good kit however it has come with no instructions. Would any of you lovely people be able to help me out with a copy or scan of them? Thanks in advance. Edit to remove typos.

Hey I'm not knocking it. It's a useful resource. Not intended as a criticism just an observation.

Shame it only lists RTR. A search on most of the box shifter's web sites would surely provide a more accurate list of what is actually available.

I use this on gears - sparingly and oil everywhere else.

Holt Model Railways do the Mike's range. Although the GNR one isn't currently on their web site it might be worth a phone call.

For added operation you could do what happened at Stockport. I can remember lots of light engine movements as a result of using a triangular junction outside the station limits to turn locos.

There is another thread about this here. It would seem to confirm what you've said before that they were teak paint not varnished.

Have a look at GF2602 on the Brlines website. Not sure it's what you're after but you never know.

The edge of the cardboard won't show once the bridge is assembled as it sits between the two main walls behind the portals. I might be preaching the the converted here but remember that card generally has a grain which means it will better in one direction than 'tother.

Depends which Hornby chassis. If it's the old tender drive one it begs the question why?

Hi Steve The Gibson kit is just the wheels and necessary 2.5mm axles. You'll need a set of crankpins and may find the holes in the Hornby rods actually need opening up slightly to accommodate the crankpin bushes with are nominally 1.5mm dia.

As it's a very short wheelbase it's important to ensure that there is no sideplay in either axle, This can be fixed in several ways. The best cost effective way would be to remove the wheels and fit shim washers to take out the slop this would however require the wheels to be re-quartered. This isn't as daunting as it sounds because the axles are, I think, splined. If you don't want to remove the wheels then you could achieve the same result by slipping u shaped shims up between the back of each wheel and the chassis sides. The best option though would be to buy the Alan Gibson conversion kit and fit that. This would not only allow the correct back to back measurement to be set (14.5 - 14.8mm is normal) but they will also look much better and because they have steel tyres you'll also find that the loco will have more adhesion' The Alan Gibson reference number is 4800/11 priced currently at £14.20 + p&p. Once you got the wheel sets up you should find that the loose valve gear makes no difference. Hope that helps