simonmcp

That isn't at all ostentatious is it now, that would be a great subject for a model, I assume the mourners travelled by train as well so you could have more than just a hearse train.

The 'Paper' would have to have a high linen or cotton content and possibly some plastic, like tear proof maps, to stop it disintegrating when you crumpled it up and glued it down. Photo paper for inkjet printers wouldn't crumple properly, it's too stiff. An alternative, which you do have to paint, is to use the Woodland Scenics rock moulds but just paint them with a thin layer of plaster and then use paper towels soaked in dilute PVA stuck in afterwards, three layers was enough. It makes very lightweight and cheap rocks.

Thankfully there was no internet around when I made my first twenty or so buildings, I would never have published a photo of them even if there had been. I am still critical of what I make but as a friend say's "if it passes the ten foot test" then it's good enough. Good luck with the rest of the build and just remember "practice makes perfect" or should that be good enough. Simon

I fudged it and used a point of the narrowest guage and put a rail on the outside of the straight road to make the wider guage (I think I just heard several finescale modellers hitting the floor in a faint). Simon

Bit late I know, but you could have drawn up the floor on a computer and printed it out, once varnished it would have been okay. An idea for any future areas like that maybe. Simon

I used the same technique to produce HOm/HOe track and modified the points, all Bemo and Liliput stock ran over okay, sadly I had to break that layout up 10 years ago and didn't take any pictures. Good luck with your project and I hope you get your Allegra soon. Simon

I use these https://www.therange.co.uk/arts-and-crafts/papercraft/stamping-and-embossing/embossing/embossing-tools/royal-and-langnickel-soft-grip-embossing-set/#279036 from The Range for to the mortar courses. Another tip is to lay the sheet over some Wills course stone and gently rub it with the largest of those embossing tools. Simon

Don't forget to print the signs out the right way round, don't ask how I know. Simon

I thought his "aged brick" is fairly well weathered.

Amazon also uses, for some items, a fairly sophisticated alogarithim which pushes the price up if there is either high demand or low availability. Simon

A stunning modelling of a complicated building, keep the updates coming, I personally like a step by step approach. Good luck with the Mansard roof, the one on my house I used to have leaked as they hadn't fitted the tiles correctly, so prototype for everything. Simon

That brings back memories, I used to drink in the Shropie Fly in the 70's, they used a long boat cut in half longitudinally as the bar, too late for the period you're modelling I suppose. Beautiful work on the buildings, canal side and crane. Simon

Have you seen how badly buckled both the roof and the cab step is on that Ruston? I love the washed out colours as well as lots of lovely rusty pipework. Looking forward to seeing this modelled. Simon

Very nice modelling, I am glad your girder is resting on some proper concrete supports. Simon

That Pat gets about a bit doesn't he, is Jess the dog with him as well?

Not so flippant answer:- If you produce a "piece of work" which uses various shades of anything it is automatically your copyright, however crudely done, specifically that exact "piece of work" will be your copyright . I am a graphic designer and artist so am familiar with the UK copyright laws. Simon

Thanks for the heads up. I will hopefully be trying to create DFX files of the departmental vehicles for my 3d printer. I might release the DFX files so that people can check and amend (bit like open source). Don't hold your breath though as I am still working. Simon

Thanks Paul, oh dear, there goes my bank balance in a downward direction , but it's my birthday Monday so I may have to treat myself . Simon

Great find, thanks for posting. That first picture would make a great short scenic layout with the mountain background. If you modelled the shunter on the front of the wagon and put it on a layout at exhibition you'd have people making a few comments about 'Elf and Safety'! Simon

Hi AndyB, Bridge "Abutments" come in many forms. Your assumption about the direction of the forces generated by the weight of the bridge and any load it carries is slightly out. In simple terms (a civil engineer may be along later to explain the full complexity or elaborate, I just go by IK Brunel's advice to his apprentices - work out the thrusts and double the strength) the thrust will be at roughly 45 degrees downwards at the base of the place where the bridge joins what you call the retaining wall. For the purposes of your model a solid base just where your blocks of wood are, I would tidy them up and paint them a concrete colour, and a stone vertical wall where your foam block is (Scalescenes downloadable kits and textures, in the scratch building section do an Ashlar Stone sheet that would be great) would suffice. You also need what are called retaining walls or bridge wing walls to 'end' your embankments. The embankments would normally be at about 30 degrees but most people model them nearer 45 degrees. For photographic reference type in "bridge Abutments" into a search engine and opt to show images and you will get a mind boggling array of examples. Simon

Do you know if they are open for orders at the moment? Simon

I think Grahame's model is amazing but I think the style is described as 'Brutalism', an apt description and the reason I decided not to become an Architect in the early 80's. Simon

Sorry to highjack the thread but can we see some pictures t your turnouts please. Simon

Thanks for the reply. Simon

I use 'Anita's Tacky Glue' bought from 'The Range', it sets in about 10 seconds, unless it's a really humid summer day, and never noticed if it dries coloured. Unfortunately can't find anyone with any in stock ☹️. Simon