boeing7572t6

Why oh why did IXO do the Thames FT6 as LHD for the BR version when they had already released the identical cab/chassis in correct form for the NW Gas version? I believe it has been shown to be possible to convert but why should the modeller have to do this? Have you forsaken the steam era now Paul? If so I know where there’s a good home for the B2! Best wishes Bob (still modelling Felsted)

Sorry John, LIMA, Triang and Novo come to that all share the same tooling. Whichever you have needs a big input to attain accuracy. Bob edit: somehow this didn’t post so I can only say I agree with Hal and David.

Thank you , I’ll get sorted.

Hi John, when I first returned to O gauge 10+ years ago, I had a go at a few of these as a cheap way to assemble a train. If I remember correctly, the real thing is based on a 16’6” chassis with a 9’ 0” wheelbase. Alas the LIMA is too long and has a 10’0 wb which is only correct for a later and not numerous variant. Also the body is too low and the door is too narrow. Notwithstanding this, I chopped the body to fit 16’6” underframe and built scratch underframes. I ignored the slight error in height and was unaware of a too narrow door until Ernie had written up his builds. I still have them and they look ok as long as you keep them away from Peco or Parkside accurate models. in summary, a lot of work for an accurate model but an easy project for a quick near scale model. Best wishes Bob

Hi, which sheet number of Archers rivets did for the tank barrel. I am looking at getting some Archers to rivet a D16 loco in 7mm. Bob

Thank you Paul, I am going with white body, black lettering and black underframe. I think that’s probably the nearest I’m going to get as photos of the van seem rare as rocking horse s... I attach an image of the van in question as I have failed to describe it accurately previously. Best wishes Bob

You’re right, the other Jeremy C has no gap in his username. Sorry for the confusion. Bob

Thanks Jeremy, I fully appreciate the sensitivities regarding copyright. I’ve just realised we have an unfinished conversation regarding Barclay tanks. Check your PMs Bob

Hi Ian, PM sent Bob

Thanks SRman and Jeremy for your replies. It seems safe to go with stone body colour/ red lettering for SR era though red oxide/ yellow is a new one to me. However my era is 1950s so looking for the BR scheme. My only reference is a drawing from MRC by Ray Chorley. The accompanying notes by Alan Blackburn state 6 only built 1928, nos50494-9. Colour scheme quoted is white body/black lettering. I would be interested in the Ashford Works photo of S50561 which falls outside the numbers quoted in my reference, any chance of a link? Your combined help is appreciated Bob

Hello, Resurrecting this thread, I have a SR refrigerated van to paint. My chosen era is BR 50s so I’m going to paint the van light stone/ Baileys Cream. How was the lettering applied, black on Baileys or white on black patches? Any thoughts out there or better a link to a picture. HNY Bob

Thanks George, I’m not going to make my version lifelike but purely functional. The snippet about the point boxes snagging is very helpful and I will build my rubbing plate gapped as you suggest. Can you or anyone else reading see why a long wheelbase 4 wheeler wouldn’t work? cheers Bob

Hello George Any progress with Doris Mk 1? I was thinking of a pad soaked in IPA (not the ale) rather than abrasives as a cleaning surface. I do need to source a cleaning vehicle and those American ready built cars are just too dear. Doris just might do the trick. ATB Bob

This model is perhaps the most common of the Bing semi scale locos from the early 20th century. Although not rare and usually clockwork, they are attractive and if the body is in good order then it is worthy of some consideration. The original mech was a very business like motor and virtually indestructible as are the wheels. Because of this they do turn up, but are both sought after and pricey. The Basset Lowke society may be able to help. What ever you decide, try not to alter the body, ie make the replacement mech fit what’s there, a real mech may turn up sometime.. along with others I would love to see a pic the model. Best wishes Bob

Just had a look at the site myself, there are 2 pics of Cl15s at Braintree, one unidentified and the other D8229. Both in green and no warning panels. Bob

Hi Paul I suspect it’s out of your era but BTH Class 1s regularly worked the Braintree to B Stortford branch in the 60s. I used to see them regularly at Felsted on pick up and sugar beet traffic. I don’t have a picture but when the LLC model was in full swing, there was a link to the Preservation group and that certainly had a photo of a 15 at Braintree heading for the sugar beet factory. I wish I could give more photographic evidence but I’m not senile and they were there! Best wishes Bob

Mike I’m most grateful for your efforts. I think I’m now getting a feel for what is required. I am now sure most of the chassis is missing, but with Phil’s help I am confident I can scratch build the chassis. This wagon is not from my normal modelling period but I am 2000 miles away from my layout so this is an interesting diversion. If I get it finished I will post a pic. My thanks to you and Phil. Bob

Phil That’s absolutely brilliant!! I can now press ahead with the chassis and running gear separately from the body, paint them and then mate the two together. One final question, what is the height of the top of the bunker above the top edge of the sole-bar. Are you able to measure? I work in 7mm but can easily convert a 4mm dimension. Thanks for your help Bob

Thank you Jon, I knew they were rebuilds but not the original wagon source. Following on from that, can anyone point me at a drawing for the BR 21T hopper or scan the instructions from the Parkside PS104 kit which would give me some idea of the chassis layout. Thanks again. Bob

Hi, The title says it all really, I am trying to rescue an incomplete kit by GJH of one of these wagons. Can’t find a drawing anywhere, anyone able to assist? Bob

Thanks for that, I think in some countries including mine(Cyprus) it is also known as denatured alcohol . I’ll give it a try. I have used Dettol but the smell lingers on plastic for weeks. Bob

I’d be interested to know as well

Sounds like the thinners and the varnish have reacted. I’ve had this when washing enamels thinned with white spirits over an enamel finish. I think the white is the matting agent in the varnish. bob

Hi Ernie, I’ve been following this thread with interest for ages. I thought I would share a pic of my Limang minerals, done some time ago. They are all corrected to 9’ WB and bodies shortened, some without top doors. Unfortunately I was unaware the bodies were not high enough or that the doors were too narrow so these errors were not corrected. All have scratch built chassis with added bits from Slaters, Parkside and sundry white metal bits. The wheels a mixture but all metal tyres. They were fun to do and when run together without a Lionheart nearby they pass muster. I apologise for the contrast between morning sunshine and shadow here in Cyprus but I think the pic gives some idea of the result. Glad I did it as I can now see I’ve forgotten the brake levers on one wagon, that will be corrected later. I look forward to the next episode. Bob

You probably don’t want one now but there is one for sale on Ellis Clark’s site, no commission anticipated. Bob