drduncan

Sorry, I’ve only just discovered this. I hope you continued with it as it’s a lovely concept and looking very interesting. Duncan

What’s the book reference? Duncan

That’s a very intricate livery on the Griddle car. Makes me glad I do pre-group - the liveries are easier... Duncan

Or dragons explode in the woods?

An end to soap tax didn’t mean an end to soap dodgers...

Very nice!

Oooh, Devonport. Yes an excellent minimum space mainline station! I’ll do Devonport you do Keyham and Camels head viaduct and we’ll join them together... EM wasn’t it? D

My son has an n gauge layout in order to keep clear water between daddy’s trains and teddy’s trains.... it hasn’t worked.... He was entranced by John Greenwood’s north Cornwall layout at Jerry’s show and complains constantly that his model railway isn’t a proper one (ie not up to exhibition standard). He was 7 last week. Still it might give me an excuse to do Keyham in 2mm - it will never fit in the space available in 4mm (I was thinking Ivybridge and then Saltash in 2mm but others have got there first ....). D

Rich, As an EM modeller, mixed gauge GWR to boot, I think your plan and reasoning is excellent. I have thought many times that if the n gauge offering 30 years ago was as good as it is now I’d have gone to 2mm rather than EM (although that would make scratching my broad gauge/mixed gauge itch a really difficult task pre 3D printing...) I look forward to reading lots more.... Duncan

Thanks! Very helpful. When I have been experimenting with the form 2 I had got down to 0.4mm contact points but after a lot of trials with no raft and different densities I was finding that rafts with 100% densities were giving the most reliable results. The biggest problem I found with reduced density of supports (and I never went below 75%) was poorly formed headstocks and some bars. Im looking forward to experimenting with the Mars 2. BTW, who is the cheapest supplier of Siraya tenacious? D

Is this top for the form 2 using form labs resin or the Mars 2 (if Mars 2 which resins do you use)? Duncan

It’s still progress - you’re making progress by eliminating potential faults in a sensible and logical manner. Duncan

Just ordered a Mars 2. Looking at using anycubic resin to start with, probably with a 10% mix of mono cure flex (I think I can get it in the uk...) Next purchase will be a wash and cure station! Duncan

Could you post how you made the temperature control and fitted it? Duncan

Yes hopefully it will have a bit of a waddle! There were 3 sub classes in the 3521/3541 class (and I don’t have the rcts bible in front me to check numbers): an 0-4-2st, an 0-4-4t (both BG) and an 0-4-4t SG, then post 1892 all BG ones were rebuilt as SG 0-4-4ts.....which were very unstable so all were rebuilt as 4-4-0 tender engines (Peter K used to do the small boilered one and Falcon brass did both large and small boilered tender varieties) D

I think this would be an excellent format for many clubs with a finescale bent or any of the finescale societies to emulate! Duncan

Hi Mike, Yes, me too as I try to scratch the BG itch - but I keep promising myself that its just one layout (or maybe just one two more: an extension to Nampara - the New Quays - and then after that something with a lovely Brunel timber viaduct and chalet style buildings) and then it will be back to the straight and narrow: GWR 1900-1914! The emphasis on convertible stock is an indication of the shape of things to come - I hope. I have also taken the plunge and ordered a Mars 2 printer! Banggood UK have them very competitively priced at the moment (even allowing for shipping and insurance). Duncan

Dear all, I’ve just ordered my first resin printer (a Mars 2 - would have loved a Saturn for the build volume but can’t justify the outlay at the moment). I’ve had sporadic use of a Form 2 (not my own) using the standard v4 grey resin but found it very brittle in comparison to abs/injection moulded components for things like W-irons where you need to spring them apart to get wheels in or fine components like brake gear. I’ve seen some people mix resins to get more flexibility so what’s the deal? What do you use, in what proportion and with what settings on what printer? Please bear in mind I’ll be using a Mars 2. Many thanks for your advice. Duncan

I think they are the pivot points for equalising bars. Duncan

It has been a long time since I posted any updates.... So here is a little of what I've been working on so far.... Work on the CMR china clay tippler wagon continues, this time with integral brake gear. So far this has been unsuccessful with the Form 2 I have sporadic access to. I have also been working on some locos; can you guess what they are? (no prizes, just respect answers at the bottom of the post) Here's the first.... And then there is this... And finally there is.... I've also been working on coaches: Here is GWR F1 slip. This will have both narrow and broad underframes for it - like the E19/20 Brake Tri Composite in earlier posts. I also intend to do a 2mm SG version (pay attention Rich Brummitt et al) And finally is a broad gauge bodied D2 brake third. This will also have a narrow version (when I get round to it and in 2mm too) So the answer to the loco pop quiz are: 1. GWR ex CMR 1392 class; 2. GWR broad gauge 3541 0-4-2 ST; 3. GWR broad gauge Hawthorn class 2-4-0 ST. Thanks for looking. Duncan

Fantastic work as always. D

We want a layout! We want a layout! We need more broad gauge layouts!!!! Seriously, it doesn’t have to be big or complex, it could be so thing more than a souped up scenic test track - what ever you fancy... Duncan

Lovely work Duncan

I use Alan Gibson pins (due to extreme poverty) and they have the habit of unscrewing so they have to be glued in but I agee, no superglue on the crank pin nuts - just a smear of locktite on the end before the nut goes on for hopefully the last time in the build. Duncan

You can use the emboss tool to extrude in or out a sketch shape on a curved surface. I use it for the panels on the tumblehone sides/ends and door frames below the waist line. D