Bryn

Top work as usual J, those transfers really look great!

Great progress Pete, it really does look the part. Have you decided on how you are going to operate your switch blades yet?

I do love little working devices, this ticks all the right boxes!

Looking good Pete, keep that ball rolling mate.

Thank you for the praise guys, it's appreciated! But it is a photo taken at quite a distance, the whole thing is 350mm overall. Once you get close in, it's not as square as it first seems

I've cracked the blue engineering brick issue, a dark grey wash with a dry colouring of a rich purple on top. More photos next post.

Thanks J!

After stressing with trying to get the ratio roof tiles to match, laying the self adhesive tiles was a breeze in comparison. Plus the colours and texture is spot on. The bottom of the shed is blue engineering brick, I'm still playing around with blues and purples to get the right effect.

I can only echo the above, top work Rich!

Looking good as usual Pete, I do like the cassettes. What do you use to glue the foam board?

Thanks for taking the time to write this up Trevor, it was quite an enjoyable read. Keep up the good work.

Standard railway practice is to turn around and "boot" it, so just turn the print through 180 degrees

Hey?!

I'm a small fitter. Luckily I have big boots Top work as usual Martin, looking forward to seeing this progress.

Bryn - Producer of greasy foot prints in the East Midlands.

I need a few sack for CBG, this is such a nice little method. Thanks for the step by step!

I've never been convinced by vinyls in the past, but these don't seem too bad in comparison. What's the plan for the underframe Pete?

It probably says in the instructions, but is their a set distance on how far the coupling should stick out from the wagon, I see on yours the the buffing plate is a slightly proud of the buffers. I suppose it also depends on how tight a radius you have on the layout, on how close a coupling you can get away with.

When I used them in N gauge originally, placing the buffer plate 1mm infront of the wagon buffers would get most things around a 9" radius curse. For 2FS you are right in saying it depends on your layout, also remember bogie induced over hang can also be an issue. It's all a matter of adjusting them to suit the application. Also bogie or body mounting?

For those making a copy of the turned brass height gauge, it was 12mm across the diameter and not from the milled face. It won't hurt, it'll just have more over hang

Thank you guys.

It's a pretty dull subject, but never really covered in any detail. But if you've never fitted a pair, I guess it's of help.

That was quick! Thanks for the update, it really does look the part. Paper tiles again, I presume?

Thanks for the advice, some good ideas and it has put me in a better frame of mind of what to expect. Looking forward to the reports on your goods shed, I'm lacking inspiration to finish mine

'noon Messy,

What kind of things did you have on your table? Next to models, of course . And what would you do different next time?

I've been asked to do a demo in June, but to be perfectly honest.... I haven't got a clue what I'm doing

Any help will be greatly appreciated!

Looking good Pete,

I'm quite fond of the simple track plan, it fills the space quite nicely. I am interested in how you will fit the frog is two pieces, but it does look better with the amount of rail joints reduced.

I really want to see Stephen Harris's layout, It was at Trainwest a few years back but I couldn't get their as it clashed with something else, I hear it maybe at Warley next year (2010) so may have to make a special trip too see it then.

 

Cheers

Trevor.

The layout will be at Stafford on the 6th and 7th of February, which normally is a good show and a bit easier to view layouts than Warley

Peter,

I'm sure someone has released a ready to run 3 way in N gauge. I can't be sure who makes it, but I've seen them used in the past. I would suggest asking in the Q&A section of the forum. Sorry I can't be of more help.

Pete,

It's progressing in the right direction, the newly framed view seems like the way to go. How about using some PVC angle section for the top beam? Say 4"x4". This would also stop the light shining upwards into the eyes of people getting a closer look at the viaduct.

'ello,

Right then, Stephen Harris....

He's not a kit manufacturer in the usual sense, he has developed a range of wagons in kit form to aid his own projects (the logic being, it's easier to make a kit than try scratch build everything separately). So every now and again he puts a flyer out in the association magazine, people put in orders and he organises for the etches and castings to be made.

If you want something after the initial run has been produced, it gets tricky. If you want the odd one or two, he might have spares. If you want more, he will need enough orders to make a second run. Castings are usually 50 per batch and etchings are around 10 - 20 per run.

Best thing to do it drop him a line and see where he's at. I've no idea how many kits have been made available, but I'm sure he can help if you contact him. He's a top bloke and a credit to the Association.

Morning Pete,

It's a Stephen Harris kit, the one from the Association shop is a plastic body (the above being solid resin). His kit never really went on general release due to it clashed with the release of the plastic kit. Shame, as it was a pleasure to build (but I've not built the plastic version yet, so I'm biased).

Hey Graham,

Adjustment it is pretty straight forward. Slacken off the two brass 12BA screws, move the Tortoise to one side and tighten up the relevant switch blade screw to give a positive contact between the switch blade and running rail. Repeat for the other side. This way there is little force acting upon the point itself.

The point is made completely for Easitrac parts and the dropper wire is .28mm phosphorous bronze wire.