Mick Bonwick

Yeah, how about her! Phwoar!!

Absolutely excellent! Without any word of exaggeration, this could be a photograph of the real thing.

I think that those who are sufficiently picky to make observations on other people's work should simultaneously publish photographs of their own work showing an example of the correctly modelled subject. Guess why I seldom publish any observations about other folks' work . . . . . . . . . .

Where to?

You just ruined a good evening.

A filter is a thin wash. It is applied to cover a complete surface rather than to highlight detail - slightly tricker to control than a wash. It can certainly be used to replicate fading and suggest a covering of something like grime, but I prefer to use an airbrush to produce those finishes. Take a piece of plastic card, paint it pale green and then apply a pale grey filter to one half so that you can see the difference it can make.

We could always ask Alan to include a blur into his scanned images so that we can have blurred arms/legs in our 3D prints.

I'm not going to be drawn into any topic that involves streaking. It just doesn't seem right, somehow.

Time passed, unsurprisingly, and ideas kept changing. The scenic area changed over to the other side of the room and an altered track plan was devised, still trying to retain the prototype trackplan. Try as I might, I could not get the continuous smooth curve through the station to fit into the boards I had constructed. I ended up with this as the most suitable, or so I thought at the time. The thinking was that an additional strip of trackwork support could be added at the centre left to allow the curve to be retained.

Love the texture on the underparts.

How large was the area he was airbrushing? Was he coating an O Gauge coach or weathering a Terrier buffer beam? For small amounts it is the best way to go about things, especially if weathering. For large amounts it is a bit of a trial, because you will have to keep mixing more and more cups full as you progress, and probably not achieving the same consistency or (if applicable) colour. If you decide to mix in the cup then the thinners always goes in first, meaning that it is not unmixed paint that reaches the nozzle first. There's no reason for not using a separate bottle, of course, it's all about personal preference. Everybody will develop a system that suits themselves, what they're painting and the materials they are using. All you have to do is choose from all the differing repsonses you get!

Clouds, silver linings and so on, but I think that roof looks much better.

Poor Jimmy. Oh, sorry, didn't see the comma.

Bear in mind that acrylic paints used through an airbrush will produce as many, by volume, paint particles as enamel paints used through an airbrush. You really don't want to breathe them in! It is advisable to use some form of extraction mechanism to prevent particles and fumes from entering your lungs, as mentioned in most of the posts above, and the best way to do that (personal preference) as a modeller is to use a suitably rated spray booth. It can be used to protect from solder fumes as well as paint fumes and particles. At home I use one of these: https://benchvent.com/shop/bv300s-d-a3-extraction-unit/ For my workshops and demonstrations I use these: https://benchvent.com/shop/bv200s-a2-re-circulatory-glue-booth/ A disadvantage of the latter is the ongoing cost of filters, but how much is your health worth?

Can you provide a photo of the air hose and airbrush, please?

Even though we've hijacked Hilux5792's thread, let's continue with the adaptor saga. Over the years the AS186 has been exported to this country with either a 1/8" (on the left) or 1/4"BSP (on the right) outlet. Forget measuring with bits of paper and calipers and so on. Is the outlet from your compressor larger than the fitting on your air hose? I suspect that that is the case, so you will need a 1/4" to 1/8" adapter to reduce the thread size to one which your air hose will connect. Another option is to buy an air hose with a 1/4" BSP connector on the end rather than the 1/8" BSP connector that you currently have.

What makes you think they're published in chronological order?

If it went the other way, The impact would be less. For the scenery you’d save the day, And there wouldn’t be much mess.

Well spotted, Mark. It is indeed the same Mick Simpson, and there's only one vacancy left, on Sunday 22nd.

Correction. I'll be behind the layout doing it properly.

Hello.

A splendid plan! A man after my own heart. . . . . . Put it back. I'll be needing it!

You shouldn't need to but there's nothing to stop you.

If the problem is dried paint in the nozzle then Isopropyl alcohol and a sharpened wooden cocktail stick is the answer. Airbrush cleaner might work, so try that first, since you obviously have that to hand. Resist the tempation to use anything more aggresive inside the nozzle, damage to that renders it useless.