tractor_37260

Are you sure they are all V4 fitted ? As mentioned above, thus feature is NOT available on the earlier V3 / V3.5 Loksounds.

Alan Good job working out the CV's to use this on F16. So far I've only added this feature to one of Bif's WH 37/4's and it suffers with exactly the same issue, the locos moves back and then forward and stops, THEN it ramps up and back down again to idle !! Not ideal. I suspect it's to do with how the sound file is set up to start with. Got any comments on this little aspect Bif ? Using this feature on the SWD U-DRIVE 47, it behaves more as you'd expect, it ramps up a little, brakes blow off then it moves back / forward and then drops back to idle. Regards Ken

All the info necessary is in the above posts, including a "step by step" in post #1 which adds this feature to Key F15 If you wish to add it to a different F Key - different CV's will have to be used, post # 9 details the changes to add it to Key F18 as an example.

Try : http://www.markits.com/MARKITS_Price_Guide_2013_09.pdf They do some nice crossed drilled brass ones

That's a good question ! This board looks very similar to the one in the latest Inter-City 125 Power Car I suppose once one has a model to hand the led's could be checked to confirm if the common is + or -

See this thread http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/51724-Bachmann-class-40-32-475dc-and-32-480ds Problems with poor pick-up due to non conductive grease etc have been well documented in the above thread. IIRC all D211's were delayed in arriving due to Bachmann checking and cleaning every example before they were dispatched. The only long time fix, it to fit extra pick-ups to bypass the problem, as your example now shows, just cleaning etc is not a long term solution.

Very nice indeed - Gonna have to stop looking at this thread, especially with these 0 gauge beasts beauties, or I'll end up being very tempted.....................to go 0 gauge !!

Hi Nigel Yep that's the answer. Having re-set the function refresh on my Lenz V3.6 from F0-F12 to F0 to F28 the lights controlled on F21/22/23/24/25 using Swiss Mapping now stay on IF switched on when removing and replacing back on the track. Probably not a good idea to set the refresh to F0-F28 if a lot of locos are on the track/in use at the same time, or loss of information could become a problem. But it proves that this is not a Zimo Swiss mapping issue. HTH Ken

Hi Gordon I have the same issue on a RE Vi Trains 47 fitted with a MX645R. If you don't switch OFF any lights controlled via Swiss mapping, before removing the loco from the track, when it's put back on the lights don't work even although they are still "switched" ON. Switching the F keys off and then back on again, the lights then work again as normal. It may just be a small quirk or compromise in the way "Swiss mapping" works, but I'm sure Paul will have an answer. Regards Ken

Impressed ! Wow this sounds just brilliant - easily the best sounding model Deltic I've heard. Regards Ken

Agree - but probably easier to just replace the 2 LED's each end on the 56 the other way around, very tricky to remove/change round the existing ones without destroying them !

Depends on what type of plastic the bottle is made from, some types of plastic will withstand sulphuric acid, many others won't !

Hi Dave Excellent atmospheric photos in the above posts. You mentioned getting to grips with a new camera, looks like that's now well and truly sorted ! what camera are you using now ? Nikon perhaps ? Regards Ken

Hmm that's food for thought ! it looks do-able in 00 , thanks for sharing the idea Regards Ken

Yeah I also looked at the BSK / BSO conversation, but as you mention, quite a few window differences/spacings etc. The ScR used a number MK 1 BSO/T's, recall having mingin sanny's on one during a trip on the WH line a few years back !!

Strange that Bachmann have not "as yet" added a MK1 BSO to their range, we can only hope it will appear eventually !

Hi John To use F18 first set the INDEX CV's - CV31 = 16 CV32 = 3 THEN set CV380 = 8 - reset both INDEX CV's back to = 0 The other 3 CV's that control the speed and movements remain the same as in my first post - their values adjusted to suit if necessary. HTH Ken

Hi Dave This may be of help ? . When built Class 47 tail lights could only be switched on one at a time, not both on together. The 47/7 Edin-Glas PP service required twin tail lights to be shown,and so until the wiring was sorted out, they normally ran with one electric and one oil lamp when the loco was propelling, the loco normally always at the Edin end, as it was not permitted for the DBSO to lead up Cowlairs Bank. This "may" provide an answer to the above DBSO photo IF the early builds had the same wiring issue ? or it could be just a failed bulb, the oil lamp being used to comply with the above twin tail light condition. As for your model I'd go for 2 red LED's ! looks better and it's your railway. HTH Ken

Just choose which spare/unused F key you want the uncoupling feature to work on, and I'll advise the CV setting require to enable it.. HTH Ken

Hi John The easiest way is for you to nominate the spare/unsued F key you wish to use it on. It then only requires one Indexed CV change to enable your selected F key, the other CV's (as above), remaining the same. HTH Ken

Hi all After reading some good reviews I recently purchased the latest SWD U Drive Class 47. It's a vast improvement on their earlier 47 versions, out of the box it drives and sounds really good, but with a small adjustment of CV 5 & 6 it can be made to sound like a loco working hard over a short run. It has a spool down feature on F8 - this immediately drops the sound back to idle from any speed together with a nice subtle turbo spool down sound. A dynamic "braking" effect is also present, provided F5 is left on, brake applications can be heard as the loco slows down. However the icing on the cake for me is the shunt/uncoupling mode on F15. With the loco stopped and idling, pressing F15 wil cause the loco to release the brakes (provided F5 is on) set back slightly and then then pull forward a short distance and reapply the brakes, just perfect for uncoupling Kadee's at a push off a button, that's provided you've stopped over the magnet in the first place ! After some experimenting, I've found that this very useful uncoupling feature can be added to an existing Lok 4 by the end user. In my case I've successfully added it to one of Bif's WH 37 Lok 4's, operated via F15 ( but it could be added to any other spare F key if desired using a different CV) So for anyone wishing to add/try this feature on a Loksound 4 , this is how to do it. Firstly you have to enable the coupling function on F15 - set INDEX CV's CV31=16 CV32=3 then set CV332 = 8 don't forget to reset both INDEX CV's to 0 before the next step, this is important ! Next set CV 246 = 5 (this is the speed setting) depending on the existing decoder settings this can be adjusted - but somewhere between 1 and 5 should prove suitable. Set CV 247 = 244 and CV248 = 150 (these 2 CV's adjust the movement forward and back in seconds), again they can be adjusted up or down as required. In use, once stopped over the magnet, don't change the loco direction. leave it as stopped. press F15 (if set to momentary action hold it ON until the movement is complete) the loco will set back slightly, uncouple, and then pull forward and stop. Also worth noting that the lights don't change over, the markers/HL remaining on at the front when setting back - as per the real thing. A great feature to use, ideal for shunting or running round at a terminus, etc. It may also work with traditional hook couplings using a suitable ramp. Any questions, please ask Regards Ken

Hi Mike Considering the previous hassle you've had with this loco, you could end up stripping it down completely and perhaps still not cure the "grinding noise". On this occasion I'd return it to Bachmann with a covering letter detailing all the problems you had with it. They "might" just replace it with a new loco - depending on stock being available. Ken

Hi Mike I completely stripped down the 47/7 I mentioned above to remove the capacitors (3 off) across the motor connections, and the tank switches, all my lighting options are now DCC function key controlled. If you drop both bogies by removing the pivot screws, depending on the length of the pickup wires, the plastic lower chassis frame clips can be released from the metal block,and the plastic frame pulled down enough to allow access to the motor. There should be enough play in the tank switches wiring to allow this, although in my case I removed them completely. When refitting the bogies, be careful not to snag the pick-up wires, and ensure the drive shafts are seated properly in the flywheels. With the bogies dropped it's also worth checking that the securing plates over the drive worms are fitted correctly. It's strange than you only have problems in one direction ? and just at certain speeds. An extended period of running/bedding it may ? help/cure it. HTH Ken

On one of my Bach 47/7's I replaced two broken body securing glazing tabs with small suitably sized pieces of plasticard mek'd to the shell, good as better than new now ! Another issue is that the BB footsteps don't always line up with the small slits in nose lower edge, stopping the BB fitting flush to the body. Re-fixing the steps to the body instead of the BB solves that problem. HTH Ken

Hi Peter Lowering the 37's is well worth the effort - as the new 37 506 shows ! BTW Girder not the bridge. Restricting the sideways movement of the bogie pivots has helped with the 26/KD problem, but I've also noticed despite checking and re-checking the height of the chassis mounted KD with a KD gauge before fixing - I still managed to get it wrong - it's mounted slightly to high !! which may not be helping the uncoupling issue. Regards Ken