tractor_37260
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Posts posted by tractor_37260
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4 hours ago, McC said:
Every 37 we make has a full PowerPack super capacitor bank installed as standard for uninterrupted running, sound and lights as well as space for two speakers on board. The DCC sound models also include a sugar cube speaker, an EM2 speaker and aloksound v5 chip.
hope that helps.
Care to remind us who's sound files will be used on the 37's ?
TIA
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Fantastic news ! Nice one Accurascale ......
I'm sure these will sell in bucket loads hopefully the plain welded boiler panel roof variant will be coming along soon also.
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4 hours ago, young37215 said:
One exception being the Cl37LG's L/E of 37003 but the now infamous gouge line below the cant rail grilles was also introduced with it.
Thanks Ken. Until you pointed that out I was blissfully unaware of 37003. When I look at 37022 which was 37003 before I renumbered it, it has the cantrail dividing bars and gouge. Sods law that I renumbered 003 to a non RSH one (022) and that the ones I have renumbered as RSH builds (081, 085 and 192) all need dividing bars!
I think I might leave matters as they are, the thought of messing around with 4 locos for such a relatively minor point is not worth the heartache. If the Class 37 Loco Group can live with the error, I guess I can learn to.
Would agree at normal viewing distance most will not notice, apart from those pesky rivet counters ! Nice layout and stock.
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Shawplan etched replacements more to scale than both Bachmann and Heljan's efforts.
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AFAIK Bachmann only produced the RSH variant 37/0 on their earlier production 37 with one piece body - with NO removable nose ends and buffer cowlings.
One exception being the Cl37LG's L/E of 37003 but the now infamous gouge line below the cant rail grilles was also introduced with it.
HTH
Ken
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Hi Mike
From memory the body was indeed a very tight fit. There's actually 8 clips - (4 each side) that hold the body on, one pair near the ends and 2 other pairs equally spaced along the sides. On my example a small amount of glue had also lightly glued the body to the chassis at the BB on one end - that didn't help either.
HTH
Ken
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Assuming they were available at the show from MMRG ? anyone get photos of the Westy 37's with White bodyside stripes ? ex 37026 Loch Awe's
TIA
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1 hour ago, 7APT7 said:
Hi tractor_37260
Interesting to note, so is DOT3 and DOT4 a specific brand to be using or some kind of Strength Notification on the tin as it were....! as I'm not mechanically minded when what to use on any Car, I'm just a taxi driver for family lol and I only keep it in because someones recommendation for Modelling Technics, but wasn't specific in which Make / Brand was best. So I just when and bought the cheapest Brake Fluid, I go and have a look in my shed tomorrow just to see what type I did buy and see if I can read DOT3 or DOT4 and Precision Supa Strip as you say, Is that another Car Related Product too...? and the best place to buy it from....? It's worth knowing...!
Cheers for that tractor_37260 aka HTH
Regards
Jamie
Hi Jamie
Car brake fluid has evolved over the years DOT3 and DOT4 are earlier versions mainly used in older cars. This should be marked on the tin or ask in Halfords/Motor factors etc.
Precision Supa Strip is not vehicle related it's supplied by Precision Paints mainly for stripping plastic models,it's not cheap but works very well.
www.phoenix-paints.co.uk
HTH
Ken
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1 hour ago, 7APT7 said:
Hi westernviscount
I should but in 'isopropyl alcohol' to as I have used that before now to, I've heard someone tell me about 'Brake Fluid' to, and I remember buying some the following week to keep in my Modelling Items Ready, but never got round to using it yet, From memory, I hear 'Brake Fluid' is very good for several modelling items, to help remover the Sticky residue parts that Sellotape leaves behind apparently and to cleaning up other Modelling parts but then I have always used 'Nail Varnish Remover' which is another good one to keep in your array of Modelling Tools. In fact I have all 'three highlighted' here within, at my disposal ready for future products to use in a modelling form of some description.
Regards
Jamie
Better to use White Spirit to remove sticky residue rather than any brake fluid.
Be careful using some types of brake fluid for stripping paint as some will react with plastic depending on the model. DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluids normally work well but test a small unseen area first.
Although expensive nowadays, Precision Supa Strip works well and can be strained to re-use...
HTH
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16 hours ago, cambo74 said:
Anybody know the size of these screws or where they can be obtained from in larger quantities .......
Not the Bachmann Spares Dept as they are vastly over priced, Im sure there must be someone out there who manufactures them .......
Cheers
Ben
Try Screwfix/B&Q - take a sample along . Occasionally come up for sale on eBay at inflated prices !!
Worth using a magnetic screwdriver when removing them ..
HTH
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Can anyone advise what the differences are between a Loksound V5 and a Loksound V5 DCC ?
TIA
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> > I have the shell upturned on a flat surface with a heavy box pressing down at each end to try and "iron" it flat but I'm not optimistic.
It's unlikely you'll manage to get it fully straight again, but some heat applied at the middle may help, when it's held down...........
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In stock @ Rails - Oxford Rail MK3a ScotRail TSO's (12014/12030) reissued as Twin Packs @ £62
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I read that the consenses of opinion was that using an i phone speaker with an EM2 rather spoiled the qualities of the EM2 but as yet I've not tried it.
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If it's a Lokound it's CV 63. ...range 0-192 if it's the latest version earlier versions (V3.5) were 0-64
HTH
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For Loksound V4 and V5 decoders a Lokprogrammer makes easy work of changing all settings and CV's especially when index CV's are used. Use in combination with the relevant Loksound user manual.
All sorts of settings can be adjusted/set : dimming/soft start/set delays in light change over/KD shuffle/sound fade/rea!locating F Key functions etc. no need to know what CV's /settings are required the Lokprog does it all for you - once you get familiar with using the screen tables, a few mouse clicks and it's job done.
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On 12/01/2020 at 21:27, jono26 said:
47651/54
Two new bodies now prepared and primed ready for painting. To make up for my cheapo airbrush and basic skills I am usually meticulous in preparation of the body before painting so usually these are the steps I follow
1. remove existing decals with T-Cut
2.Depending on existing livery strip back to get an even surface
3.Fill any holes such as roof aerials, hand rails etc and sand flush
4.wash body to remove debris/dust and leave to dry overnight
5. degrease with IPA or proprietary degreaser
6. Prime with Halfords plastic primer
7. Once dry check and correct filler as necessary and lightly sand with 1200 grade wet and dry
8. Drill holes for new hand rails and fit handrails with super glue
9. Repeat 4, 5, 6, 7, 4, 5
Now ready for painting if you still have the will!
For these two bodies I decided to have a go at adding new brass handrails and front grab handles from 0.35mm brass. I will reuse the Heljan front rail and lamp brackets.
Meanwhile buffer beams and pipe work are painted and ready for assembly. I also took the opportunity to start a thorough service of the motor, pick ups and wheel clean.
47/7s
Next up my current fleet of three 47/7 to complete the three DBSO coach rakes. I have two Bachmann 47708 ‘Waverly’ and one Heljan 47715 Haymarket. One of the Bachmann 47/7 will become 47714 Grampian Region so a simple renumber and new etched name plates I picked up from shawplan at Warley.
Some are critical of the Heljan 47 but for the money off ebay and the quality of the motor I have no complaints. Having said that the Heljan 47/7 for some reason is fitted with the wrong under frame tanks/battery box so I will be swapping with another 47 models long range tanks which works out conveniently as this, when back dated to 87/88, had the battery box only configuration.
The one missing part on the Heljan tanks is the white pipe work which I need to scratch build. First attempt in plastic was so so, but I think a brass version will be best long term so I will make a bending jig with pins and a piece of mdf… watch this space.
Surprisingly the Bachmann model is not without fault, and there was I thinking easy buffer beam detailing job and one simple renumber/rename. Having checked prototype pictures and done some homework I noted that the RCH jumpers are positioned too low and the ETH sockets fitted as supplied were not as per original, so some reworking required, or am I just being fussy? see below
Jonathan
Definitely worth replacing the RCH fittings with etched parts and fine fuse wire ? fitted in the correct position, and shifting the ETH fittings.
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4 hours ago, Accurascale Fran said:
Deltic Update!
Work on the Class 55 Deltics has been ongoing since we showed you the first engineering prototype in October. We liked a lot, but other parts we did not like so much. This has meant that some parts have been redesigned and retooled as we want to make the best Deltic model there has been. Unfortunately this has resulted in a delay in delivery until November 2020.
Check out our web update for more information on what we have been working on and future project milestones. We apologise for this delay, but we want it to be right.
More info: https://accurascale.co.uk/blogs/news/deltic-update-january-2020
Thanks,
Fran (on behalf of Accurascale team)
Looks mighty impressive........ one small thing that stands out is the lower nose corner grab rails could be closer in to the nose ends, similar to the higher up ones. If I recall correctly this was already on the to do "snagging" list.............
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If anyone is interested in trying the above Lima 156 mod, I have 4 x New Lima 156 trailing axles/wheels available - PM for details.....
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On 17/01/2020 at 13:58, cravensdmufan said:
I'd be interested in re-wheeling Lima 156's to run without traction tyres, so no great traction required.
If anyone has modified these units I'd be grateful for advice, thanks.
In the past I used spare Lima 156 wheels/axles to replace the traction tyred ones.
Remove the traction tyre wheel from the axle with a puller or pin drift. Cut the drive gear off flush with the rear of the wheel.
Using a spare trailing axle wheel, use an axle to line up the gear cog on the new wheel back and secure with a couple of spots of epoxy adhesive. Once dry drill 1mm hole from wheel outer face through the gear, and super glue a small length of brass rod to pin the wheel to the gear cut off any excess flush with rear of gear cog.
To help traction add stick on car wheel lead balance weights on top of the glazing part at the motor end.
HTH
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A BR Blue 27 with sliding cab side windows (and plated over tablet catcher recesses) would have been good, don't think Heljan have covered this version.
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3 hours ago, Accurascale Fran said:
Hi everyone,
Here is the latest update on our PTA/JTA/JUAs. We had hoped that these would be landing before Chinese New Year but as you can see, the factory have still not made all our corrections. https://accurascale.co.uk/blogs/news/pta-jta-jua-and-jsa-update
We do apologise for this delay, but they have to be right.
Cheers,
Fran
Nice to see a good honest update, warts and all, for a change, unlike some other manufacturers......so they will justifiably be delayed, to get them correct ....doubtful that will prove a problem for any buyer ?
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2 hours ago, woodenhead said:
Mk3 sleepers were built blue grey, I think they too had already gone into storage by the time Exec livery came about, so no Mk1s got the livery.
Waits to be corrected........
Mk3 Sleepers definitely carried Exec & Swallow livery as well as some regional privatisation versions. FGW FScR etc
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"Narrow Planet" also worth trying....
Accurascale Scottish 37s announced
in Accurascale / Irish Railway Models
Posted
Dolphins ? ML allocated locos had leaping Salmon's on Blue locos, and Hammer & Anvils on R/F Sector locos - no Dolphin's !