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The Seacow looks great, more great work as always! 👍

Sounds like you had a good weekend Stu, always good to see some more photo's of Sheepcroft. 🙂

Some fine work there David. I'm glad you're enjoying the build, just think of the satisfaction seeing your first loco run over it. 👍

I re-weathered the Sentinal and prepped a few others for weathering soon. Cleaned everything and made sure I had gloves on so hopefully no problems. I wanted the number on the Sentinal to look like it had been cleaned and has started getting dirty again, need to add some coal to it as well. Going to let it all dray now then I'll add some powders etc. @NHY 581 Rob, when you did the 03, did you spray the whole lot, underframe as well lightly with Matt varnish before adding powders?

Thanks for sharing the video Rob, your J70 looks very nice indeed. How do you uncouple your stock at a show? Apologies if I've missed it in the thread. I've been trying a paddle on the end of a rod to lift the couplers up manually but it can be a bit awkward. Thanks Steve.

Thanks Rob, I cleaned the outside but didn't look inside, every day's a school day! I think, sometimes trying to weather over a mistake can look contrived, so rather than weather over the scratch I prob will remove all the body weathering and re do it. I'm not sure why the paint hadn't stuck though.

While I was practicing with the airbrush, I but the bullet and started on this Dapol Sentinel, using Railmatch frame dirt and roof dirt and working from the George Dent Weathering for Railway Modellers book I got stuck in. Despite drying for 24 hours and the model being cleaned beforehand the weathering seems to be chipping off in places, the next step is a wash in panel lines etc and I fear that no matter how careful I am some will come off and I'll end up removing the lot and trying something else. I also think there was some sort of residue where the body joins the underframe, I was hoping to weather over that. The Ruston has had the Army lettering removed using T cut and is waiting for the next bit, while I decide how to do it.

Up The Junction - Squeeze

Some nice acquisitions there Rob, look forward to seeing how you deal with them. 🙂

Thanks @Daddyman I've watched some youtube stuff on filters, albeit aimed at military modellers. I did spray some frame dirt along the underframe earlier but it doesn't seem to have ''stuck'' I tried wiping it off to get some streaks but the paint just come off so I'm now wondering if that would be the same using a filter, the Ruston seems to have a very smooth finish! Thanks Rob, @NHY 581 I've got an 03 to do so will use that info, do you ever have problems with your initial coat of varnish not sticking to the factory finishes? As said earlier the Ruston seems to have a really smooth paint finish, almost like a die cast vehicle finish.

That Ruston is fantastically grubby! I wouldn't know where to start with that!

The More I Get The More I Want - Teddy Pendergrass

I put a small pond in my garden earlier in the year and last week saw my first ever Dragonfly in my garden. Not sure if the pond brought it in or the amount of insects flying around my Ragwort!

I want to start weathering this loco to go with the wagons I've been doing, but I've been looking at so much stuff I appear to have weathering overload and don't know where to start!! I'm looking to remove the Army number and fade the livery then weather the underframe etc. Can anyone tell me how to remove the number without causing too much damage? I was also wondering if I should airbrush the usual frame dirt around the underframe as I don't think a shunting loco would weather the same way as a main line loco. Any advice greatly appreciated.

Can't Get Enough - Soul Searcher

Loving all the class 37 photo's, they all look superb! That's a fine fleet of locomotives you have 👍

Looking forward to seeing it weathered. How would you approach a rust finish when the bauxite is a similar colour, do you go ahead with the usual weathering colours or tweak them slightly?

Thanks David, the autocoach looks quite at home on Templefield! A green class 121, 122 and a few parcels wagons would complement it nicely. 😉

Coming along very nicely David, the Autocoach looks great, some fine modelling there. 👍

Loving your work! especially the OCA's a few posts back, I've said it before but the way you do the interiors looks so realistic. What was the retarder you were using with the acrylic paints, did it give you plenty of time for to "paint on then wipe off"?

Thanks Chris, glad I've seen someone use the technique on UK railway rolling stock as it looks easier on 1/35 scale tanks or US box cars and I was beginning to wonder if it's just not doable for UK stock, especially the planks on a 12ton van, so the container photo is really helpful. I'll keep practicing. I've been watching a couple of videos by Neil Podbury, who works in oils and gets stunning results. I really like the way you can manipulate oil paints for a while, but like you say they do need adequate drying time, I found that on a factory finish even after a few days some paint wipes off.

Hello Chris, I've been having a look through your thread, and I noticed the oil dot fading you did on the tank wagon. I'd like to have a go at that myself, did you do it over the factory finish or did you put a coat of Matt varnish on first? On some experiments I've done I found the oil paint just wiped away over a factory finish and wondered if matt varnish would give the paints something to hold on to.

@NickBrad I can vouch for Robs methods. Just remember less is more, try not too put too much on, having said that though, using Robs method if you do you can always gently remove some with a fibreglass brush, which also adds to the texture. Enjoy!

I like the paint fade, that's how I remember class 20's! How did you do that, was it a repaint or have you faded the original finish?

Wake Up Everybody - Harold Melvin And The Blue Notes As meaningful now as it was back then!