NoelG

Survey result screen grabs listed below so no need to use FaceBook. Thanks to those who participated.

Survey results posted here https://www.facebook.com/groups/1111393745593442/ Thanks to everybody who participated in the survey.

Thanks to everybody who participated in the survey so far. I'm sure the results will be interesting and may even throw up a few surprises. It will be available until Sunday. Thanks again folks. Will publish the results on here and FaceBook.

Below just for fun is a very quick simple 'wishlist survey' for 00 gauge RTR Irish models. Forgive as I'm sure I've probably ommitted some obvious prototypes. Existing RTR stock have notbeen included for obvious reasons. There's only few questions which you can rank in order of your preferences and to speed up answers you can drag or slide answers vertically. It should only take a few mins to complete.Poll will remain open until Sunday night. Survey results will be published on FaceBook and here. Have fun. Thanks. Noel https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/DQZHN3M?fbclid=IwAR2dIMbyrhy00IBajKwJjsKyw91fL3vNWTes2hVl2wZuC30iRWIR7W83dMs

I’d certainly be interested in two rakes but only if the DVT was included. They’d nicely complement MM201s in the green’n’grey intercity livery. I have a rake of Hornby resprays but while they do at 2ft range, not up close. If the numbers ever stack up in the future could also be win/win for MM could could rerelease more 201s in the current intercity livery to go with them. Also toy market potential as today’s youngsters have seen them in the flesh.

David, Looking forward to seeing the drop sided wagons. I assembled a few of the curtain sided kits last winter, just a few additions, kadee's of course, white metal coupling hooks and brake vacuum pipes, plus gentle dirt. Coupling hooks and vacuum pipes add a little something. Tail lamps on the end wagon (IE era as two, only one used in CIE era) and a little grease on the buffer faces. I have a few of Ian's drop sided wagons in stock which I should get to over the summer.

It is a very personal choice thing and as advised do try and operate as many cabs as you can before you buy. There may be some small functional or ergonomic cthings that drive you nuts or others you cannot live without. I can only share my own personal experience when researching the move from DC to DCC about 4 years ago. I tried out only 4 DCC systems: Lenz, NCE, Gaugemaster Prodigy and ECoS 50200. I was lusting after the ECoS colour display system, but in the end I went for the NCE and was very pleased ever since. Its not perfect but I love the ergonomics and the feel in hand of their dog bone style cab. It must be the easiest to program and setup with easy to use wizards for setting up new decoders, assigning addresses, making CV29 a simple set of plain english questions, etc. Strangely one of the attractions of NCE personally for me and a decision influencer at the time was the option of buttons for throttle control or a thumbwheel rotary knob (which coming from DC I perceived I would need), but to be honest I only ever use the inc/dec throttle buttons which are great for blind eyes off one handed use with tactile feed back. The Cab ergonomics have become an mental extension of my mind when driving locos, especially shunting and for sound locos. I just think what I want the train to do and it just seems to happen, with my fingers just pushing the right buttons by tactile feel rather than eyes on. I hooked my NCE up to a PC running JMRI so I could use the wireless cab app 'WiThrottle' on some old iPhones but I gave up after a few weeks on the touchscreen user interface because it required eyes on and there was no physical tactile feedback, so one handed shunting went out the window. More recently for another layout I tried the Z21 just for a change of scene and because some friends had recommended it, but Z21 and I didn't become buddies, not the fault of the Z21, more the limitations of touchscreen for driving and shunting model trains. The NCE dog bone cab is not for everyone, but for me personally is like having an extra limb that makes my trains do what I'm thinking. Ok some truthful negatives. The 'momentum' button is a useless waste of space and should be superglued so you cannot accidentally use it, because the blasted thing overwrites CV values in the decoder permenantly. Also I don't like having to use the EXPN display button to display the status of all functions including above 10. What is very annoying is that while in EXPN (ie view all function status), you have to exit by pressing EXPN again instead of another button, especially a throttle input exiting it automatically (ie you cannot use a throttle button while in EXPN display mode). One minor niggle is I had to config the 'Option' button to act like a shift key for quick access to extended functions for sound locos, but this was a once of setting. Pity the SHIFT key does not do this for all functions above 9. Likes: The 'prog' button menus are so easy to setup and config decoders and the DCC system itself, all plain english. Also consists are really easy to set up but no speed table matching built in. The feel in hand just suits me, the way my brain thinks, and my hand size. Anyway good luck, enjoy the search, and whatever DCC system you end up with. I spent about two months methodically researching and trying different cabs before I jumped. Avoid 'confirmation bias' recommendations. NCE PowerCab or the ProCab are basically the same handheld cab. One is 3amp the other is 5amp or 10amp. WiThottle phone cab app. Touch screen. Very inexpensive way of having wireless cabs on almost any layout. A fab novelty at first but that soon wore off because I wanted to concentrate on looking at the train rather than the LCD screen (ie so I could position my fingers). WiThrottle iPad app for twin or quad train control wirelessly. Not for me I'm afraid, I want to concentrate on looking at the train action and not an LCD screen.

I must be lucky, with nearly 300m of code 100 track I've never had a problem with electrical continuity using metal track joiners (ie fish plates). I have hardly any droppers too - 'sacrilege' I hear but my track laid 24 years ago performs with out issue on DCC. I converted from DC about 4 years ago, and just hooked two wires up to my old DC block section switch panel and threw every block section switch to on. I haven't had a hint of a problem so far and I mainly run sound locos. Perhaps I was foolish but it has worked, I fell for the 'keep it simple' promise of DCC and so far it has worked out.

A parcel arrived today with a pair of these beauties from IRM/AS. Absolutely exquisitely detailed models. CIE Era ballast train plough vans with built in operating DCC tail lamps and internal lighting. No need for a decoder unless you want to switch the lights on or off using cab functions. Just put them on DCC track and the lights are on all the time. There is provision for a plug-in function only decoder in the roof. Take a bow team IRM/AS these are another superb product. Sir Richard of Wozniak has out done himself yet again. Impressive internal detail and love the warm soft tone of the internal lighting. I can nearly see a pot of tea on the stove. Holy Moly what incredible chassis detail. Has any manufacturer ever gone to such extraordinary lengths to so accurately reproduce all this amazing detail often hidden from sight. And there are some additional accessories that can be user added. This company has redefined what detail and accuracy mean. A view inside. Dare I weather these beauties and fit kadee couplings? One part of me wants to put them straight into a display case.

And for the past 30 years I have donned the red suit every Christmas eve continuing a family tradition. Tis mad but its great fun and to see the excitement on the faces of little ones. Sing a few carols and then away up the chimney. This christmas with MM 121s and IRM A classes arriving I'll be the child receiving lovely Christmas gifts.

I've seen some folks use a bridge rectifier chip, resistor and capacitor connected to led strip lights powered by pick bogie pick ups to give always on flicker free lighting. In one case I saw them use a rotory pot under the coach body to allow the lighting level to be varied. Train Tech battery powered coach lighting strips work really well but are somewhat expensive compared to DIY sets, but no need for power pick ups on each coach, flicker free and works particularly well on coach where the roof pops off or access is easy, or you remotely mount the battery under the coach body. Word of caution 'Light Bleed', some coaches may need significant work to avoid light bleed through cracks in coach bodies or even glowing through thin plastic roofs, glazing recesses, etc. You may need to paint a few coats of dark paint on the inside of some coach roofs, and even seal gaps where light can bleed with tape or silicone painted black, which sometimes interferes with the way a coach is snap fit assembled.

Yes the daft 'momentum' button on NCE cabs should be superglued to prevent accidental use. The daft thing overwrites CV3 and CV4 POM permanently changing the decoder values.

Where Do You Buy From Internet Or Local Shop ??? There are no local model shops left anywhere near where I live. Marks Models is about an hour away and they have a good range on the floor of the shop, so most is bought from the internet, eBay and various online retailers like Hattons, DCC concepts and Rails, Peters Spares, Eileens Emporium, etc. Interestingly I have started to buy from German web sites over the past two years (eg Kieskemper and modelbahnshoplippe, etc) who have very keen pricing on electronics, DCC, decoders, etc.

Thanks, yes I have tried that, it is much better than the phone app for throttle, but I really miss buttons for blind one handed throttle control (ie inc/dec +/-1 or +/-4 speed steps at a time in 28 step mode), which is a real help shunting, especially with kadee uncoupling magnets.

So far I've found 28 functions is more than enough for sound locos especially diesels 0 directional lights on/off 1 sound on/off 2 short horn/whistle 3 long horn/whistle 4 head lamp on/off 5 coasting/throttle hold 6 brakes 7 flange squeal 8 cab lights 9 guards whistle 10 coupling noises 11 buffer clash 12 rail noise 13 auto uncoupling shuffle 14 coach door slam 15 station announment 16 shunting mode (light engine) 17 arm loose coupling cascading snatch (as goods train starts off) 18 arm cascading loose coupled buffer clash (as goods train stops) As to the future of DCC, electronically I find DCCs specs seems to be based on late 1970s technology and very very slow transmitting data down the bus (ie try recording 300 CVs quickly). Sound decoder chips seem excessively expensive (eg LokSound + Zimo) considering their manufacturing unit cost is mere penneys. DCC ready in this day and age should be a simple plug in under floor process not requiring loco bodies to be removed. I've yet to find the ideal ergonomic cab layout for sound locos (ie combines custom labelling of sound function buttons with physical throttle control inputs for blind one handed use). I do agree with you there are some superfluous gymicky sound functions offered on some sound projects (eg fans, sanders, cab doors, shovelling coal, etc) which will never be used except for that novelty first time use when one goes through the entire list of functions. When driving I find the engine notching sounds (or steam chuff), brakes, flange squeal, short/long/distant horns and whistles are the only sounds I regularly use (ie 5-7 functions).

Thanks for info. I've ordered an NCE Power Cab which I'm familiar with and should eliminate the touch screen throttle slider issue which I foolishly dallied with and just didn't suit me personally for shunting control.

GM Irish 141 class EMD powered loco sporting 1970s CIE livery. Mix of weathering powders used in wash solution and airbrush to finish off.

Fair comment. When I started with DCC the big marketing mantra was the same as Hornby's Zero 1 which I had many moons ago - "Just two wires needed" instead of all the DC block sections. I appreciate its good to have all track live including sidings which ordinarily might be dead depending on which way a point was set as this helps sound locos and stock with lighting have power irrespective of lighting. But I fail to see the benefit of droppers every 18" or so on straight sections of track each side of fish plates. The more wiring one introduces the more possible points of failure one introduces. Keep it simple. Our new club layout seems to have more cabling and circuit boards with flashing LEDs under it than an A380.

That's a very fair and good point. No, our layout has only been moved once about 17 years ago. I can see the benefits of some additional droppers for exhibition layouts.

Personally I never bought into the concept of DCC droppers all over the place like confetti. It has almost become a sort of cult. Since converting from DC to DCC I have just two wires connected to 300m of track from my 5amp DCC controller and it all works just fine. By contrast I have seen pals place droppers on every separate piece of track. It seems an awful not of unnecessary additional work. Look at the sheer thickness of the rails, IMHO the rails themselves makes a fabulous bus. My track was laid 25 years ago and the rail joiners were tight when fitted, so far I've not had a glitch and most of my locos are sound. I had a few DC isolation sections, but I've just thrown all those switches to on. Just about to lay track on a shunting layout that will be 10ft x 2ft and it seems there will be little need for more than a handful of droppers.

Ah that sounds simple just change the direction bit in CV29 if the lights and motor direction are in agreement. If the dummy car has its own decoder than both separately, otherwise just the power car on the programme track (ie assuming some sort of electrical connection for the lights between the dummy and power car

Sounds like speed curve settings too. ESU lokpilot and loksound chips have a self cabilbration mode for motor settings that involves the loco lunging forward at speed for 2 meters.

If you can find out what decoders they are by querying CVs such as 8 etc. Some decoders use speed curves instead of CV6 to define the mid point voltage. A single CV29 bit usually turns this speed curve on or off (reverting back to CV2,6,5 curve). Also check the values for CV3 and CV4 are not too low. Another remote possibility is the decoders are in shunting mode which disables or reduces other speed effects. The main suspect seems a speed curve. Can you run them smoothly on DC (ie to verify chassis are free running)? Smooth Low speed running should normally be one of DCCs strong points. Good luck. ps. I recommend lenz silver+ decoders or LokPilot for super smooth motor control. Zimo also excellent. Hornby decoders are not the best and often lack support for common motor control CVs.

Saw that sort of thing happen on the James May TV programme too

They look excellent. It'll take some time to weather all of those.