meatloaf

Do you offer a while you wait service?

So to follow up I lifted my track this morning. I decided to mod the points as well but I struggled with bonding the stock rails using the thin wire. Big thanks to the chap at trident trains that did my half a dozen points in a flash. Whilst I was there I picked up the autofrog units and a couple of the DCC concepts bus bar units. When I got home I wired up the frogs and track feeds to the autofrogs and thankfully it all works as it should do. I decided to put the DCC80s in the non scenic area of the layout mounting them on the surface of the baseboard. All in all im glad I went ahead and did it.

ive got a load of the Hornby point clips, I was thinking of using those after cutting them little wire links? bad idea?

Ive decided im going to modify my points and add frog switching for maximum reliability. The medium and large radius points have an exposed rail and stock rail on the underside where they can be bonded together. The small radius are different - see pic. Do I need to cut away the plastic sleepers and if so where would you recommend doing it?

Thanks for the advice im going to get some DCC80s at the weekend from my local shop and see what happens. Means lifting all the ballast to get the points up but I think id rather do it properly this time

thank you for the reply. Will I need to modify the points or use them as they come from the box?

I don't really need a point motor but if I use the DCC80 will it still switch the frog polarity? If so does that mean the point blade is only essentially there to set the direction the train travels thru the point? Will I need to make the modifications to the point ive seen online - bonding the rails together and snipping the little bridge wire? The instructions for the autofrog don't say. My points at present are exactly as they come from the box And finally it looks like the DCC80 only needs 3 wires - the track feeds and the frog wire. The track feeds can they come from the DCC bus or do they need to come direct from the point? Sorry for the newbie questions

Hi probably easy questions but... Using electrofrogs for the first time and its all wired up and working. Occasionaly the loco stops on the frog and loses all power. If I touch the tie bar the loco carries on, so the blades either dirty or not making good contact. So reading up online ive seen people using point motors with a separate add on for the poliarity of the frog. I don't really need a point motor but if I use the DCC80 will it still switch the frog polarity? If so does that mean the point blade is only essentially there to set the direction the train travels thru the point? Will I need to make the modifications to the point ive seen online - bonding the rails together and snipping the little bridge wire? And finally it looks like the DCC80 only needs 3 wires - the track feeds and the frog wire. The track feeds can they come from the DCC bus or do they need to come direct from the point? Sorry for the newbie questions

In the new 24 all you need to do is install the sound decoder of youre choice and youre ready to go

Just seen this on facebook

So the layout is now up and running and all wired up correctly. Whilst at one of my local shops I saw the DCC concepts busbar and it tidied up the wiring no end. Whilst the trackplan is fairly simple I feel very pleased to have done it. I had wanted a DCC Sound 03 from Bachmann but feared that the old insulfrogs would casue issues, but now when funds allow it will be the next loco purchase.

Ive finally done it... I ended up putting IRJs on all frogs. All the tracks at the B end now have feed wires at the ends of the tracks. Ive also pit a pair of feeds on the top part of the loop and a single feed on the lower part of the loop. The cabling will need to be neatened up a bit so ill get more wire tomorrow. But for now its all working as it should

Im struggling with this. Ive slightly modified the trackplan and for now done away with the kickback siding. Ive highlighted in black and red where the track feed is and in blue where the insulated joiners are. Im struggling because if point A is set to straight the loco runs fine along that line but everything else below that point is dead. Change point A to curved route and everything is live except the top track which goes dead, apart from beyond the crossover marked as B which is live? When point A is curved the bottom two sidings are live even if there point is against them Help!!! Where should other track feeds be? What am I missing I bet its something obvious

Apologis im on DCC ive posted in the wrong place. Maybe a mod can move it to the right section.

thanks for the replies. The 2nd extreme seems the way to go. I don't really need to motorise the points but I am considering using dcc80 units to switch the frog polarity

Decided to bite the bullet and get some electrofrogs. I have quite a simple track plan. I know I need insulated joiners on the frogs but where do I need power feeds?

youll either need to get a prodigy advance or get an advance handset to work with your express control box

Just seen this from hattons https://www.hattons.co.uk/newsdetail.aspx?id=749&utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=post&utm_campaign=mar-0595-dapolgwrmanorannouncement&fbclid=IwAR23krWFlpx2WOsBWZmuoGNn1CHq17NhaY86Mnzp7frTaWL3zH__tVUPEHg

No its the 6 pin version

Thank you managed it in the end. I thought id managed to break it when the bogies and the baseplate came away. Thankfully the decoders in now and it runs great. Only thing ive noriced is that in direction of travel the headcode and the tail lights light up at the same time

Ive got a Dapol 27 and according to the instructions the body just unclips. However I cant get the body off mine. The bogies come off and the plastic base plate comes off but everything else stays stuck in the body. Am I missing something?

Has anyone got this set? Seriously tempted but not seen any reviews of the set on youtube

Im looking to get a Hornby 08 but want one that I can just drop TTS sound into. I ibileve the latest ones it fits with no modifications. Can anyone point me in the right direction or tell me the R numbers. Either in BR green or blue.

Has anyone got one of these yet? Been holding off waiting for a few youtube videos to assess the running qualities. Theres only a couple on there which don't do the loco any favours as it stalls and cuts out on plain track let alone insulfrogs. So does anyone have one and how id it on insulfrogs

I have a spare 21 pin loksound decoder taken from a class 25. Im fairly sure its a v3.5. Will this work in the 24 using the built in speaker?