dhjgreen

What a pity, is it terminal or do you not care. Sounds like you have given up on it.

quote "just had a play using the viewfinder rather than the lcd screen and it still makes you wait for the preview, as soon as it appears you can push the shutter 1/2 way to get rid but that delay is the difference between getting the shot or not which is annoying" That would the 0.9 sec in the spec and is one of the compromises with a bridge camera, different makes have different compromises so another make would have shorter processing time (that is the delay before the preview appears)

For night shots set the camera to P then to iso 2000. My wife uses mainly iA on her Lumix (she is an ex club photographer and it works for her)

Higher iso settings mean a higher sensitivity, so less light needed. There is always a compromise, so the higher you go the more noise you will get (poorer picture quality). There are some very extended iso settings available on this camera (above 3,200 iso) but I would steer clear as the noise would likely be unbearable unless you got the "must have" shot. I would use the lowest iso that gives you at least 1/30 sec in wide angle and going up with focal length; we used to say shutter speed equals focal length, but with image stabilisation, which you have, you should get away with shutter speed maybe less that half focal length, experiments needed as it depends on how still you hold the camera, whether you are able to brace it against something for example.(focal length in 35mm equivalent, a rough guide only,again experience is all) Returning to the shot to shot time, I have found these specs Shutter Response 0.05 secs Wide - Focus / Shutter Response 0.175 secs Full zoom - Focus / Shutter Response 0.2 secs Switch on Time to Taking a Photo 2.2 secs Shot to Shot without Flash 0.9 secs Shot to Shot with Flash 3.1 secs Continuous Shooting - Hi 6.8 fps Continuous Shooting - Lo 2 fps This suggests you do not have to wait for the display to go blank before the next shot (0.9 sec not 2). I am afraid the continuous shooting modes I found earlier and shown above as up to 6.8 frames per sec are only in VGA format, so very low resolution. Edit to say:, What I have written seem straightforward to me but if there is too much information for you then: Higher iso settings mean a higher sensitivity, so less light needed Back to shot to shot time, do you use the eye level viewfinder, or the big lcd as a viewfinder?

Good luck anyway.

That does not sound right. I know something about cameras, can you tell what model it is and I will research if you like. Along with many on here, I really enjoy your photos and want you to get the best out of your new camera.

Jim, use "continuous shooting" mode, depending on model you will have between 1 and 10 frames per second shooting rate.

They ask you to report the maximum number at any one time, so your sighting is 4 blue tits (or whatever your maximum is).

Ian, V1.3, as soon as you start to turn the control it becomes active, then turn the other it becomes active. It happens so quickly it seems as if they are both active together. Edit to say, could this have anything to do with the 2 selects I also have connected?

Traction, I don't know if there are different releases with the Elite but I can change the speed of two locos at the same time (I went to the layout to confirm this). The locos do need to be going in the desired direction though. Quote "NOTE:- Only ONE control knob is active at one time, you can't turn both control knobs at the same time to control two different locos!" Using the Elite and two Selects I can (just) control 4 locos simultaneously on my own (easier when EMGS visit!). Thanks for the reviews, very useful work; and confirming my view that the Hornby units are quite satisfactory for many layouts.

Not as cheap as the chinese PWM controllers, but I have just bought 2 Varipulse controllers from Canada (12v AC needed). There are some reviews on here, not all positive; just search varipulse on here to see them. BTW anyone using DCC is using PWM (at 79 Hz default setting; info courtesy of MERG).

A section of the Mumps station canopy can now be seen at Bury Bolton Street on the ELR. https://elrfundraising.wordpress.com/2015/12/03/heroic-effort-sees-canopy-project-completed/

Bought and wall mounted the large version yesterday. Thanks guys for showing me this, brownie points earned for a tidy room.

Dom, I linked your lift up sections post into the thread of a well know modeller, you are now the talk of RM Web!! http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/81400-seaton-junction-and-honiton-bank-1958-1964ish/?p=2093900

Have a look here, post 21 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/103154-fernlea-00-gauge-blue-diesel-and-later-garage-layout/&do=findComment&comment=2092826 Dom has beaten you to it

Dom, I'm a little surprised that you have not had more posts on this thread. There is some really interesting work here, and ideas to copy. A very neat bit of soldering on the mimic diagram; and heatshrink, Wow. I am particularly impressed by the wiring on the 37 way connector. I have seen work much less neat than this from professional wiremen (you aren't one are you?). More practice will help with your soldering of brass, plus a little liquid flux. I would suggest you get some much smaller choc block as there is a risk of the wires not being gripped by the screw and them randomly falling out (thought the layout was n gauge when I saw the size of it in post 14!) Loving the Kadee flags and camera too. Edit to say added you as a friend.

Al, I use Dingham couplings which require fine soldering. I use liquid flux to hold a very small piece of fine cored solder in place then waft a kitchen gas torch, on its lowest setting, back and forth over the joint until it just melts. Edit to clarify, a torch for caramelising Crème Brulee, not a gas match!

Try a cheap pair of supermarket reading glasses, they worked for me. Being binocular the image is in 3D so much easier to model. Take a piece you are modelling and try the various strengths until you find something that works for you; around £3 a pair.

I am eagerly awaiting news of large showers of sparks and clouds of blue smoke!!

Ooops, takes me to my own picasa account!! Mostly just a lurker, stunned into silence by your work.

Just don't buy reed switches described as "latching/bistable"

Are these any use?

Looks even more stunning in the flesh, it got my vote

Another advantage of slightly stretching the wire is that it is made harder so is less likely to bend

Is it possible to amend the cutting design to enable you to cut the structural card as well? It would also make good sense if you were making 2 or more of a model.