longchap

I wish you positive vibes, good karma and an ace CV to help bring what lies just beyond the 24 mile line into sharp focus. Are you on LinkedIn? They're forever sending me French job vacancies and I'm retired! Very best, Bill

I've still got a white metal set from 40 years ago, but never used it, as I"d only seen photos of them used in BR days. It would be interesting to drill down into their history.

Good work on the autotrailer as the Airfix model responds well to some attention with a paint brush and a few little people. I've no idea why Airfix painted the gong in a metalic coppery colour, when the prototype was body coloured and a quick flourish with an appropriate cream lifts the front end further into reality. Looking forward to your continued story. Best, Bill

Absolutely Neal, but without sufficient space to accommodate all sizes of reference materials together, so I've planned a suitable built-in unit to accommodate all volumes and magazines. It would be good to get it done, or at least well under way by the summer.

I had one of those annoying “where did I put it” moments the other week, only rectified yesterday, when I found my copy of Iain Rice’s chassis construction book. I remember using it in the railway room and then in the bedroom for late night reading, but could not find it when it was needed. So frustrated was I, that I bought a very cheap, well used and workshop smelly temporary replacement, only to find my original the day when the other was delivered! Mr Murphy strikes again. I'm even more determined now to build a permanent railway room next year, then I can transfer my ever growing railway library into it, so will ever more know where all the books and magazines are, probably.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225795649848?hash=item3492783138:g:j44AAOSwCz9lDcmV&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0NGy6jdVSmotbDAilPeQx6f84KMLF3TECvfzoqszG8EqEeod4EXKxtywDWr%2B%2BKYMfZldaLZibyg0EI%2BDzxYEAZKtjZkdeF2hjfRJLoS%2BkAbSLYAV3R4jB8UG28SRPtnWaYMXNxf0D4Ia86EJ1L8nhwQOJkduubuEBiWHDU9UlMx8V9BRvii8V4yKajHO93wKX3lLCFVOUTFb2J45N%2BdlzEb5hjXHWQDG2EZE6Ayt4AniTbOSZ1hRSthEszoW2564RpIvnx3lBuhMgY35G4WuRsc%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7SbnOCGYw Build it and they'll come ? Well there's certainly one born every minute, but 10% may go to the Red Cross.

We live in a village with 50 vinyards, although I spotted some Russian vodka in the wine bar just the other evening and 'tis just a short stagger home !

Rewarding oneself with a screwdriver? Yep a vodka and orange will do the trick 🥃 Other beverages are available 😎

Well done Graham and wrap up warm wherever you're going. Hopefully this means you're no longer quite as inbetween jobs.

I’ve been away / intermittent WiFi for two weeks . . . Welcome back Neal. Now did anything happen, let's see? I think I remember something about a possible new Pannier being mentioned. Yes, it's coming back now and I even ordered a second one!

Thanks Mike, very much in fact, as you’ve given me exactly what I needed, that is, a description of the hornblock bending process from the perspective of someone who had completed the seemingly simple process successfully. I had followed the instructions using the same tools pictured, but never got the locking tab to lock down the assembly to produce a really flat hornblock, but due to your methodology, I will now deploy my ‘Hold and Fold’ and also ensure the etch is prepared more scrupulously and success should be within reach. My mojo is rekindled, so I must find my hornblocks this weekend and try again. I’ll report back. Un mille mercis, Bill

I'm impressed with HL's gearboxes, which are also a joy to build, but for some strange reason, I've so far been unsuccessful folding up their hornblocks. Just four folds eh? Well I've read the instructions and even understand them, but my attempts so far only result in a mangled brass abstract sculpture. Can you share your foolproof methodology, tips, etc Mark, as I seem to be acting the fool with these and I really want to try compensation on my next build. Bill

Yes they do, as I've just read them (free download from HL's site) to see if they could offer any better method for my Metro. They do not, but as one might expect from HL, the rigging is well designed and is removable. I'll be soldering the Metro rigging using a simple soldering jig, with one side's final fixing to the chassis by a tacky glue to facilitate removal. Sounds easy doesn't it? No need to answer that one !

Is it my eyesight or lack of prototype knowledge, but are the upper cream panels and above door ventilators way too high? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186182970473?hash=item2b595eac69:g:I0gAAOSwWJZlY7bi&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4OBFwwFPrz12b2IhZRYJc%2F0iAO419ZI82eytgz%2Fp5vbD8LRg%2Brk85PYyw5FGEY6B4SdkimAuMzZnvX3Epl%2F79dJPzFBNr%2BJ0sjO48WijCGmDAhGByz5QVgGHdU5OFvT497KGrCX2SdT%2BIsj%2FICJNqzKwcFbegsEz2mJDD8tgcwSlmDXMB4Ei5p7O9%2FYz8WEYOFnH12jCt38kOptGumDZoPl3KciCUMkl60tVmIA7hemJu1zxlPAqB4sZPqjmBTS2ZDNQ87rk3Bo0QQvevrIMVJhxxuC3cOaHk6nzMPMv9AE4|tkp%3ABk9SR6S475mCYw

Hmm, that looks very much like one I have from Dapol, although I can't see any TLs.

I'm only sorry that I hadn't previously assessed the jig when I received it last year, otherwise I could have commented authoritatively much earlier. I actually have two Alan Gibson 0-6-0 kits in the stash, complete with his wheels and motion set-up, so the jig will indeed earn its keep in due course. Crack on Mark, as I'm enjoying your build. Best, Bill

It’s tipping down with rain, but I’ve braved it to t’other end of t'courtyard, wrung out the sogginess from one of our longer haired cats and finally got a good look at the GW Models' wheel press and quartering jig and instructions. Mine is exactly the same as yours Mike and is beautifully machined and assembled. It is designed to be used either in the hand or in a vice, the latter would probably be my favoured option, since it leaves one’s hands free for doing everything else. The vice jaws sit under the rebates on the sides of the jig and as one tightens the vice the press being sprung loaded, closes precisely around the chassis to press the wheels onto the axles, together with quartering the cranks to 90deg lead. GWR has the right hand wheels leading by 90deg, while other railways may have done things quite differently. With the wheel placed over each projecting stop, the crank pin sits in the slot. The slot is set at right angles to the axle centre and caters for different crank pin offsets. On the outside face of the jig, there is a tiny recessed grub screw down the hole to set the wheel stop projection. Quoted from Gordon S from RMWeb, July 29, 2010: “It's very easy to use. Each jaw has a reversible sprung loaded pin for either 2mm or 1/8" and 3mm axles. Next to the pin is a slot to take the crankpin and these are preset at 90 degrees. Take one driving wheel and insert the axle just far enough to hold it in place. Chamfering the end of the axle will help insertion. Place the wheel onto the jig and align the crankpin in the adjacent slot. Add the other wheel to the other jaw and align the axle end. One they are all in place, just gently squeeze the two jaws together in your hand. I use a B2B gauge at the same time to prevent squeezing too hard and taking the B2B below your ideal figure.” More back up info: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/19209-gw-models-wheel-press-and-quartering-jig/ Best, Bill

Ah, an interesting post Mark, containing some good news and then some not so 😲 As I use Markits self quartering wheelsets, I've yet to test my GW jig. My square axles also allow the wheels, when finely fettled, to slide easily on the axles by tightening the wheel nuts and safely off again with a wheel puller. So without having the benefit of looking at my own GW jig (in the railway room a very cold and dark walk away), I'm wondering if one could carefully mark and drill new holes on the correct face of the jig? Please forgive me if I'm wrong and I'll kick myself tomorrow when I make it into the railway room. I understand that the 90deg lead was not universally accepted across railway companies and a range greater than 100deg was not uncommon, so a strict 90deg quartering is not essential, particularly as both sides of the loco cannot be seen at the same time. Bon couage, Bill

Apologies to @Neal Ball and everyone else for straying off topic, as I am fortunate to have an Alan Gibson 850 in the kit stash, but sadly without instructions. However, if any kind modeller has a copy of the 850 paperwork, I would be eternally grateful for their kindness if they could share the instructions with me. I'm also looking forward to Accurascale's first batch of Panniers and have signed up for 5754 at present, although 6743 with the riveted tanks is very tempting. However, I think there maybe other useful variants following along later to consider, so the story will hopefully continue . . .

Maybe just what you really need for your layout scenario, rather than what you'd like, as I think there maybe other useful variants following along later to consider. I've started with just 5754 at present, although 6743 with the riveted tanks is tempting, but then an open cab variant would suit my period really well.

Just as long as it's not Thomas the Tank!

Hearty congratulations Accurascale and a huge thank you for your continued engagement with your customer base. I can now stop hacking my old panniers to remove top feeds and look forward to the high fidelity Accurascale RTR Pannier models in the not too distant future. Best, Bill

Still hopeful that we might get a new GWR R-T-R Pannier tank 0-6-0 🙂 We did it Neal (with a little help from Accurascale) : https://www.hattons.co.uk/directory/versiondetails/article?id=1459&utm_source=klaviyo&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=modvehid6313-accurascalegwr57xxannouncement&_kx=WrWe8igx__DrSRpVwg0dXezvm3U72XWp256Cv1_RlNE%3D.JGQeXh Best, Bill

Ian Rices's book on 4mm Loco Chassis Construction is the Bible here. I will also review my notes on quartering from the Missenden Abbey course to remind me of the methodology. A slightly mystical topic for all new Chassis builders and like Neal, I also used the self quartering wheels sets with the square axles, which make life a little easier. Best, Bill

These things get better with repetition Graham, but I admit that plastic to aluminium will not be as easy as plastic, so we'll done chap. In other news, I found an unused pre-owned value pack of Gaugemaster GWR station lamps on Hattons' the other day, which are winging their way to France, so I can let you know soon, how well they really are to scale. Hmm, I think I better make the station platform!