Salmotrutta

Yes. It's non-DCC and also doesn't pick up from the track - only through the couplers. I'm converting it to stand alone as the owner wants to run other locos on the consist.

I have offered to convert the BEMO "MOB Crystal Panoramic" set for a friend to DCC sound. I was wondering if anyone on the site had tried this already; if not I will photo graph my approach and share it here in case anyone else is intersted!

Try turning off the BEMF on the decoder if it has it. I have some locos that run like jumpy dogs with it on and like silk with it off.

Updated with a neater approach. DCC_MOB_conversion_V2.docx

Another trick is to buy some of the clear glue sheet used to repair / stick the glass on cell phones. I cut a tiny square and stick it on the front of the LED and then directly on the end of the light pipe in the model. Useful when you want to emulate single illuminated lamps. I am still using the small practise sheet they included; the amount you get for one phone will last about 1,000 years at that rate! Only about $10 a sheet if I recall. However for these older models it's pain wiring it up so this plastic rod is easier.

Here's a blow by blow account of how to do it. I'll update it when I do the next one and any comments would be useful on how I can improve it! DCC_MOB_conversion_V1.docx

Just fitted a Lokpilot V4.0 nano DCC to my Rocket. This is the 6-pin version but doesn't fit as is - the pins are very long. Elsewhere in this thread someone mentioned bending pins; so I used an ESU 6 pin socket to bend the pins 90 degrees. Then removed from the socket. Trimmed the fly leads down to half an inch in case I want to ever use them and the whole thing fitted into the barrel with the original adaptor. Ran with a bit of a jerk - turned OFF the BEMF and now it runs beautifully! Also tried the Bachman 90 degree 6-pin 36-556RA but it is too big for the Rocket.

Glad you shared the link! I get the Guardian and missed it! Well done!

I think I'm in exactly the same place! I'm going to park the chip for when I get a Collett goods or just re-blow it for one of my Swiss locos. Not that convinced by the sound - although I put an iPhone 8 speaker on it and it's much better.

I gave up and put the DC blanking chip in it. It runs very well under DC which is why it's frustrating. The Loksound runs better on the ESU tester but there's still some weird stuff going on with when it plays sound. However it doesn't do the rapid chuffing noise on the rig. I tried an ESU lokpilot in it and its still buzzy at low speed. I have some TCS chips I might try in it; although I should also go back over the tread to see what has worked for others... Thx for the suggestions by the way!

I'm suspecting that something isn't well with the motor. It is becoming even more random with the sounds - sometimes making a lot of chuffs close together or no sound at all. Reset CV8 and that hasn't improved things. Turned off DC and still no improvement. I'm going to try the decoder in another loco today; it seems to run OK on the ESU test rig but it's hard to see how smooth the motor response is on that. I also noticed that the 8 pin socket sits on a board with not just the capacitor smd but some others. I have lots of ESU loksound micro V4 in other models and the only time I have had this problem was with a capacitor hidden in the trackwork of Tillig track. So I'm suspecting it's either the motor or one of the other smd's in circuit.

Hence chocolate chip fudge instead of styrofoam?

OK I removed the capacitor and it didn't make any difference. Still a buzz at low speed. Runs fine under DC. Also managed to melt the steam pipe on the tender Luckily I have some wire ones somewhere... I also turned off the back EMF and it just sat there making noise and eventually moving with the chuffs out of synch. Saved the setup on my ESU Lokprogrammer so was able to go back to the start.

Mine sounds horrible at slow speeds. I'm going to try removing the capacitor as suggested here:

I stuck a small round spirit level to the back of my drill when I drilled my mast holes. I think it came from a kit for setting up my Hi Fi turntable many years ago. It may have come from a previous rechargeable drill where it served a similar function. I didn't have any slopes like yours - there's also going to be a tendency for the washer under the baseboard to force the mast to lean "downhill". Nice work so far!

Waiting to hear back from Markits otherwise will try Roxey...

Thanks Phil!

Anyone found a source of replacement airhorns for the Heljan Hymek? I just got mine out and one of them has gone missing. Tried Gaugemaster but they don't seem to have them. PS. I have an unbuilt Triang Hornby CKD Hymek exactly like the one I had as a kid. Tempting to build it but I'm sure it's worth more unbuilt....

Looks like you are breeding them.... Shame the little ones lose their colouring as they grow up.

The Ge 4/4 III is my favourite loco EVER! So much so that I have more of them (in HOm) than does the RhB themselves! (14 at the last count). I also have an excessive number of class 52 "Westerns" so perhaps there is a psychologist somewhere that can explain that too.

You should not be getting a dirty commutator that quickly unless the brushes have got oiled up and gone soft. Unfortunately I have had new locos which have either been over-oiled at the factory or have so much grease thrown at them the gear box is "fudged-up". Luckily I haven't had to replace brushes and the gearboxes have been improved by removing the excess grease and adding one drop of electrolube on the gears to "thin it out" a bit. However sometimes it's the mechanism which all the bits are at the wrong side of the tolerances and it just doesn't want to work; the only solution I found is to get a manufacturer to replace the chassis. Sometimes it sorts itself out with a lot of running-in so that's worth a try. Hope this helps!

Thanks for sharing this! Not watched a cab ride before and I ended up watching the whole thing! We were in Switzerland at the end of February before it all closed down with COVID-19...

Maybe the driver ate all the pies??

At least on the background "The Sun" is up.......

I have a spare chassis which was running poorly and Rapido sent me a replacement. I don't know what the problem was but working on the principle that working poorly is better than not at all you are welcome to have what spares you want from it. I live in the USA so it might be better to just post the gears in rather than send the whole thing. PM me if interested!