Dana Ashdown

This book might be useful:GetContent.pdf

James, I checked for the book. It is Railways and War before 1918, published by Blandford Press in 1972, but -- as you've discovered -- the authors are Denis Bishop and W.J.K. Davies (not O.S. Nock - the format is identical with Nock's series). As I suspected, there is nothing about head codes. However, I think generally any lamp codes used would have been unique to the particular army or branch. There must have been a few books published on the ROD, but whether anyone ever thought to note the codes is another thing entirely. This lamp, by the way, is essentially a British-pattern hand lamp that has been redesigned for use as a marker or signal lamp (hence the sockets on either side, and lack of a rear handle). There are red and blue glass filters inside, so white, red or blue/green aspects can be shown. If you're not familiar with this, when the catch on the back is released, the top handle can be turned until the filter comes to the front. It has the Canadian Broad Arrow mark inside the door, and though I believe it is of Great War vintage, it could also date to WWII. Sadly, the interior reflector is missing, and the burner has ben replaced with an Adlake 250 model -- the same kind used in Adams-Westlake railway hand lanterns.

I'm not at home at the moment, so I can't check, but O.S. Nock did a book about fifty years ago entitled something like "Railways at War," and published by Blandford Press. I don't remember it having anything about lamp codes in the Great War, but I'll look anyway.

I've simplified things to three sets: local/stopping, semi-fast, and express. To which I can add a through set if appropriate. As to accuracy, for my Great Western needs circa 1907: Ratio four-wheelers form the local/stopping; Tri-ang clerestories make up the semi-fast service; and Hornby corridor clerestories are used for the express. The clerestories have been/are being modified to suit, but nothing fancy. I also have some stock suitable for 1914 and 1930, but I've decided to concentrate on getting 1907 finished. A Kernow GWR steam motor would be nice too, when they become available. As to the SE&CR circa 1914, I have some Ratio GWR four-wheeler kits that I plan to modify for a local set; I have a Bachmann birdcage set for the semi-fast and express; and I also have four Ratio LN&WR kits to do for a through train. At some point, I might try rebuilding some Tri-ang clerestories into boat train stock. Naturally it would help if I had a layout to run them on, but that will be done eventually.

Those are a lot to build... clearly you're thinking about keeping busy into retirement!😉 If you had to scale back on the numbers, which sets do you see as the most important? And which sets are the easiest to complete? I ask, because there is a risk of starting too many projects at once, and never getting anything finished as a consequence. I think this is why estate sales often have boxes of unfinished kits. Too many kits, too little time. I won't even mention the cost. (Oops. Sorry, I promised not to mention that.)

From what I've read, fitting the wiring for DCC is wise if you have PECO Bullhead track, even if you'll only run with DC. It gives you the option to switch in future without having to rip everything up.

That was my mother's job when her parents were out. She would sit at the top of the cellar stairs and count the bags.

And trains, for that matter.😄

Can you please post examples.

They may not be entirely fictional, as Rocket had to be provided with a tender made from an existing wagon. And the goods wagons are just reworking of the Rocket tender. That said, I think the goods wagons are too expensive. One day I'll trying making one myself, after which I might have a change of heart on Hornby's price.

How about Ruby?

From The Locomotive magazine, 1913, a picture of the up Cornish Riviera Limited Express at Acton. The main part of the train consists of five 70-foot Toplights, with a Dreadnought dining car, together with what appear to be three brake composites (slip carriages?) at the rear. Depending on when the phot was actually taken, the livery could be all brown or all crimson lake, or perhaps a combination of the two. Question: When was North Star renumbered?

That sounds interesting.

Shocking, but I forgive you.

Only if you're modelling the 1930s and beyond. Even the Dukedog is a later creation from a Duke and a Bulldog. I think we need genuinely Victorian engines! And some early Edwardian ones.

Very nice to see! Was the train made up of five Toplight coaches in the train when it left Plymouth? I counted five, but I'm not sure.

Mikkel, your figures are wonderfully done... as always! (BTW, did you notice that the carriages in the photos at Henley and St. Pancras don't appear to have any lining? We know its there, somewhere, but it just doesn't seem to show up.)

Would medium or dark grey be better in this situation? Something dark enough to be black once the kitchen is closed in, but light enough to show all the detailed work you've put into it. Either that, or a small LED inside the firebox, to give the dull red glow of burning coal. Congratulations on making 200. And you don't look a day over 125!😉

He must have. You can see it here under the middle compartment.

The one I mean is the vacuum cylinder - being hung vertically rather than the horizontal gas cylinder.

My Great Western carriages are unlined. Im afraid that if I tried lining them, they'd be ruined. However, the lining is often invisible in photographs so I don't think I'm missing too much in some cases. Its mainly the single colour coaches that the absence of lining is more noticeable. For example, all brown or all crimson lake.

Excuse my ignorance on the LB&SCR generally, but the Ratio coach has vacuum brakes (hence the vacuum cylinder underneath). I could be wrong, but wouldn't a Brighton carriage still be Westinghouse air braked in your period, and therefore no vacuum cylinder?

Very well done. Thank you!

Learn to pick locks. Then no lock will be a bother to you.😏

I used a drill to ream the holes larger, so I did have that trouble. The couplings are higher, but for the moment I don't see any major problems on that account. However, the short Airfix hook doesn't give much clearance for the uncoupling wire.