Right Away

It is useful to check a model's item code against the "Mazak Rot List" on this forum. Replacements for affected parts are available in many cases. Another important decision is whether you are using, or thinking of moving on to Digital Control. Earlier, split-chassis locomotives will require additional work before a decoder can be fitted. There are still bargains to be had on new locomotives but naturally these may not always be the classes you are looking for. As the other members recommend, striving for as late a model as possible is probably your best route.

New bell code required - "Train passed with many tail lamps"!!

A problem with some "off the shelf" items of very small dimensions is they can be slightly oversized. For 00, items below a scale 3 inches (1mm) are often better fashioned out of copper wire (2.5mm). This can be twisted along its length, making it more rigid and then squashed to a degree, to form a square or rectangular section.

Fleischmann 6599 oil has given me no problems.

I have used Train-tech colour light signals which are relatively easy to install. The hoods over the lenses are quite short, and therefore I extended mine using black art paper cut to shape and curved to fit However, they have now been replaced with working semaphores ..... what some might call a retrograde upgrade!!

Model trees? I had to look again. Splendid!!!

David, please excuse my lack of knowledge of the infrastructure of the railways of East Anglia and therefore what I am suggesting may be of little use to you. Facing similar issues myself a few years back, I decided to knock up some water cranes as a temporary fix. Constructed from Plastruct tubing and wire, like many improvisations, they are still in situ! Please see photo of a couple of examples. The arms of the cranes are reinforced with 4.00mm electrical stripped mains cores so that the plastic can be bent to shape without breaking. The whole is then very carefully - mind your fingers, doused with very hot water from the kettle to soften the plastic and bent into shape. If all goes well at this stage use remaining water for a well earned cuppa! If the plastic splits, it's not been softened enough so try again. The upright columns are a sightly larger Plastruct tube with an inside diameter that is a perfect fit for the arm which sits inside about 1" (25mm) and so can swing round. Bracing struts, chain, water valve etc are all from the "bits and bobs" box. Differing designs from the pre-Grouping years will add variety. By no means a perfect solution; (not too close a scrutiny please) but with the help of photographs and some weathering, it is possible to create a create a reasonable representation of the cranes that were seen in your area.

Always a good idea. I keep a "log" to record any issues and their date while I am operating. Minor problems, If not rectified immediately, won't be forgotten and can be attended to later. A quick glance at THE BOOK before any modelling or operating session is far better than relying on my memory! Having a record of the more complex and demanding problems and their resolutions has proved invaluable not only for myself but for others. Often, a solution has been the result of the extremely friendly assistance by members of this forum. There's generally always something outstanding, but that's the nature of such a fascinating hobby.

A most interesting and informative reply, Graham. Would you know if Hornby (and others) have rolling stock assembly/disassembly information available to customers as they do with locomotive service sheets?

Not forgetting the catering cars in the BUF, RES and the three GRI units on the Pompey road.

.... and was Gene Pitney really only 24 miles from Tulse Hill?

Whilst on topic, would any member know if the latest Hornby Mk1 BGs have any glaringly obvious issues when seen next to a Bachmann?

For reference, here are 39-177C and 39-176E for comparison.

Apologies. I suspect that's not what you are looking for!!!

Could one of these be of use, hardwired to loco? https://cm3models.co.uk/laisdcc-nem651-6-pin-to-6-wire-adaptor-part-no860005-dcc-1772-p.asp

There's a glimpse of a now preserved Std 4 through the cab side window at one point.

Pleased you have identified the initial problem. It seems from your description that you have a DCC system and are relying on rail joiners (fishplates) for electrical continuity in some areas. It is advisable to provide every section of track with feed wires (droppers) from the so-called main electrical "bus" wire fed from the DCC output. This ensures minimal resistance and alleviates compromising the data signal to the decoders.

Missing insulated rail joiners on turnouts perhaps? Multimeter to the rescue!

Pleased to have considered the idea. Now what did I do with that old AE-1?

A method I have used to emulate small chains is to seperate two strands of 7/.02mm wire and twist them together quite tightly to suit; additional strands can be used for larger sizes. This method can represent ropes but would be best suited for lengths rather than loose coils - give it a try.

If not for traction, it sounds as if the motor could prove useful for powering a loco turntable up to 7mm scale.

Smokeboxes, even on freshly shopped engines quickly lost their glossy finish due to the intense heat. You could take advantage of this after your repair by using Lifecolor Burnt Black or similar to effect.

The cranks on the prototype are 120° apart. However, whether Hornby replicate this with accuracy on their outside cranks with respect to the middle engine is another thing.

Taking steps to "future proof" the railway by taking into account a possible house move is always a good idea. Whichever length you decide on for the individual boards, ensure, where possible that any complex trackwork, turnouts and crossings etc are situated on a whole board and not straddling the board joints in order to simplify dismantling and minimize damage. This might entail having boards of differing lengths depending on the track plan but would ultimately be preferable to replacing the delicate pointwork and wiring thereof, should it become necessary.

Likewise, John. With varying degrees of weathering bringing out the individuality of each one ensuring that "one 700 is not enough"; the same could be said for other locomotives - but 60 Sovs is still a very tempting figure. As for a Urie S15, that would do nicely. I can almost hear the squeaks and clanks just visualizing it!