Right Away

Has any member had experience of the Multi Purpose Rubber Coating aerosol product by Plasti-Dip? The reason behind my query is that I was toying with the idea of giving the DCC handheld controller a "grippy" feel, similar to some TV remotes. This product would seem to fit the bill but is relatively expensive just to coat the sides and part of the back of the controller. However, if it achieves my aim and helps to prevent cold fingers from dropping the controller, the advantage would outweigh the cost.

When we recently visited the shop there was also a good discount on many Oxford Diecast items; it might be worth a phone call if after a specific item.

Remember to seal the garage floor and exposed wall surfaces to minimise dust.

As the loco worked fine before, dirty wheels and pick ups shouldn't be an issue, check the loco to tender wiring and plug connections. Then check that the DC plug hasn't worked loose and is firmly plugged into its socket. If it is still in warrantee, the shop should offer an exchange but failing that it's loco body off and out with the meter!

Front. May slightly enhance viewing angles but definitely give the benefit of keeping rolling stock further from the edge.

White hot fire, a blistering summer's day and we're already there, save perhaps for a slight blue haze!

I have used Humbrol 29 Dark Earth Acrylic (AD6029) spray can for large areas after thoroughly testing electrical continuity and running qualities of the trackwork. This can be blended as desired in various locations with differing tones applied with airbrush and touched up with paintbrush. Ballast can be applied before the paint but obviously will negate any natural colouration. A longish process overall, try out your methods on a short piece of track and see which works better for you. Providing individual electrical feeds to every piece/section of track and polarity switching of all points can initially seem onerous and somewhat OTT but you will for ever after be thankful you spent the time doing so.

Thank you so much. I missed that topic entirely. My curiosity satisfied, I guess Andy can now close the thread

Firstly, please excuse the quality of the first attached image; it was a "screenshot" from the telly! Perhaps a member has a copy in print. I was recently watching Part 2 of a TV documentary War At Sea on the ABS America channel which covered the grave effect of U-Boats on our shipping in WW1. It relates that in order to restrict the activities of German submarines it was decided to sow 70,000 mines across the North Sea in a type of fence. Of these, 50,000 were manufactured in the USA and shipped from Norfolk VA across the Atlantic to Inverness via the Caledonian Canal. It was at this point the very interesting photograph of the train was shown, which in turn poses some questions. The headcode disc does not suggest a location other than the south of England. Any ideas? Did any LBSCR tank locos venture "Up North" during the conflict whilst the railways were under government control? Perhaps the engine was a "Border Terrier".........like ours!

Some years ago I had a BR Standard Class 4 4-6-0 No 75071 (R3016A) whose drive mechanism failed. A used version purchased sometime later also gave trouble. That two such delightful looking models (which are now on the "Mazak Rot List") to fail was very disappointing. Would it be safe to assume, Hornby, by now, will have addressed the Mazak issue in their latest version of the BR4 (R3548)?

Having dipped your toes into digital control, installed decoders into your motive power units and experienced the flexibility and ease of control that DCC offers, you would be hard pressed not to like it.

Instant direction changes, whilst not only failing to emulate how the prototype really operates are not very kind to a model's drive mechanism.

Thanks Alex Bogie’s off. Had to prise from side with screwdriver.

I have a Hornby Maunsell BTK (R4796A) where one bogie does not pivot freely. I would like to remove the culprit for inspection but cannot fathom out how as it looks very delicate. Would any member out there know the procedure, please. Thanks in anticipation.

The "professionals" will extol the pros and cons of both mediums all with valid reasons, however, personal preference will often sway your decisions. I have an allergic intolerance of enamels/thinners. Acrylic paints are a godsend in that thinning and cleaning present no issues and have been used very successful on wagon kits and weathering. It is worth considering the relatively quick drying time of acrylics which can be useful when applying additional coats. This quality can be problematic insofar as airbrushes can clog sooner if not flushed through regularly during, and thoroughly stripped and cleaned after use. The much longer drying time of enamels will allow easier manipulation of colour which many find useful.

Here's a web image, unfortunately not much detail of the apparatus.

All my "dummies" are dummies! Now you've given me cause for consideration along scratchbuild lines.

..... still hanging on in quiet desperation!

These are absolutely superb.

Thank you everyone.

There are photographs showing locking room windows of some working boxes "bricked up" in later years. Would any ex-Bobby or S&T man know what would have prompted this decision and the earliest when these changes would have been made. I'm thinking it was possibly the result of frame modernization - miniature levers etc. Or could there have been other rationale, maintenance and/or security?

Any venture which aims to attract interest in the hobby has to be commended. However, I have to agree with JohnR and The Johnster on their comments regarding the locomotives and rolling stock chosen for the train packs. Any newcomers to railway modelling with limited prototypical knowledge, may wish to create a reasonably accurate rendition of the real thing in miniature and expect to "start off on the right foot". The somewhat mismatched items in the train packs hardly strive to achieve this. A feasible assembly of stock, all compatible with each other is what we might have expected, but catering for a broader audience would incur more than just three packs. But wait! Could what seemingly appears, at first hand, to be a hodge podge of items thrown together willy-nilly, possibly be a clever marketing strategy to encourage buyers to expand in more than one direction or era from their initial purchase?

Trying to envisage the impression of a 28xx or an A4 (or the rest for that matter) with hi-viz fronts and tender/bunker rears! Keep the painters and cleaners busy?

Some general photographs here; might help with the scratch build. https://signalbox.org/gallery.shtml

Consider concentrating any second-hand purchases to rolling stock alone, where any defects would be immediately apparent. Any potential savings made could go towards new locomotives. Even a brand new engine can have issues, however all reputable retailers will gladly offer an exchange or a refund. This is not to decry the used locomotive market, simply that it is often better suited to the modeller with experience in the workings of the beasts.