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No matter how 'special' a locomotive is, I'll purchase for one reason alone - to run on the rails, so that will consequently mean it'll need to be serviced on regular occasions. I love the initiative to move detailing parts to where they're more practically positioned, to permit easier body removal / replacement. Not 'thinking out of the box', just thinking - thank you! Al.

That's a good idea, assuming they're intercompatible. There's one problem - the doors don't open!! 🙃 Al.

This thread seems to be the hottest thing since 'pizza was invented' !!

Must admit, I was very confused when I read the emails declaring 'the new model', quite simply thinking 'why the feck are they doing this - the Hattons' one is brilliant?' !! Then I read the small print. WELL DONE - The Hattons' 66 Patriot I have is an absolute gem - get the AB's rotating like they should aka Dapol's 59 and that 'gimmick' still looks great - no need to remove it. The operation, power, and haulage are fantastic. Should be a superb project. Al.

How about a go at 'Hydraulics'? Warship first, then perhaps the lovely Western to follow ... Dapol's looks great, but if my experience was anything to go on, the Heljan's much more reliable. It was the only locomotive I've got to blow a PCB, and that was within 24 hours of receipt!! Al.

OK, there's mention of KR making one, in addition to 'the rumour' of Bachmann reviewing their own ... being realistic, it may not be preferred territory for A/S just now, but here's hoping. I would like a Jubilee!! Bahamas and Galatea are hammering the rails big time in recent months - like the 2 Royal Scots ... Hornby's of the latter is 'very acceptable' for me (before you add a Scottie to the list, 'though a parallel boilered one ... ). Al.

I'm on Google Chrome as well - this is what I get: This site can’t be reached The web page at https://www.collettsmodelshop.co.uk/ might be temporarily down or it may have moved permanently to a new web address. ERR_HTTP2_PROTOCOL_ERROR

I did !! Top of the page!! ☺️ OK, we've moved on !!

What's happened to their website? No access for a long time - tried Googling various options. Al.

14xx 0-4-2? Stanier Jubilee - including double blastpipe (aka Bahamas). Did anyone mention a 40? Just a few thoughts. Al.

Thanks for the clarification SS. I've never had any problems, 'though I've been using 1mm thick Pb sheet. It can always be easily cut, folded, pressed and shaped. I have perhaps 1/3 to 1/2 of the length of the of the body - take care where the wheels are, where the motor is, particularly main part which may have to be avoided. I'll shape the sheet to fit just inside the body, follow the form, and glue into position. I agree with many, to add too much isn't helping anyone, but it's probably still going to be lighter than the H-Dublo ones - with the same chassis!! Al.

Hi there. I'm at work now, but it depends which streamliner you have - which 'tooling'. The later / latest tooling will have the loco / tender cojoined by a bolted drawbar - easy enough to remove, and a 4-pin cable / socket - very fragile. The earlier models will use the more robust - not without its faults - pin and fingers connection - tender pin into hole on locomotive drawbar, which has contact 'fingers' on top. Once separated, bodyshell removal is very easy. Depending on model it could be lugs one end, a screw / bolt the other, or a screw/bolt at each end. Once the bodyshell is removed, you'll see just how much room there is - don't think there's another this side of a spamcan Southern Railway Bulleid Pacific with so much room! I used a piece or pieces of Pb sheeting, perhaps 1mm thick, folded to suit the contours of the body, and avoid the motor, other items. This I've simply superglued into place - remained there ever since without issue. Some will mention to be careful, but they've part filled the body with glue and lead shot, and have encountered expansion similar to MAZAK rot. I'll target a locomotive only (not tender) gross weight of ~450g, so not TOO heavy. This I'm certain is less than the weight of the recent H-Dublo diecast bodied Coronations with the same chassis. Hope this helps. Al.

Fantastic job here - locomotive looks superb. Al.

I'm loving the free 'sound effects' of these coaches - the 'creaks and groans' (of the couplings) when they change direction slightly, then counter. I could lubricate a little, but prefer as is, for now. Al.

Boosting a 'quiet' thread. I grew up with 40's crossing a local bridge, seeing them on a daily basis, so despite the 'underpowered' real-time criticism, they're a firm favourite of mine. My old Bachmann, which I added lights to runs like a dream - quiet, smooth, crawls well, hauls well, looks fine enough, and with a very good top end. If the new addition can trump this, I'd be happy! Al.

I find with my 2 Class 68's and my 59, the motor seems to 'warm up' - not as in getting hot, but setting at half or just above power, it will increase speed after perhaps five to seven minutes, then maintain that for an hour without issue - I'll shut off after an hour and change motive power. Al.

I had to look a few times to realise it was a model!! Tell the driver to clean his windows !! Al.

Looks just as smooth as my Holly Bank #3. Al.

Thanks for the reply. I hope so. My Deltic's moulted details like a Persian cat, so will be in touch ... Al.

Not models, but spare parts availability. Dapol do it with their locomotives. A/S locomotives are if anything far more detailed - I have 'Deltic debris' all over my layout - corner steps, wheel scrapers / whatever they are - I've had to collect. Models are superb, but in general and regular use, there will always be some collateral damage, which requires repairs. Just a thought. Al.

There's one thing. Access to the interior / motor when removing the saddle tank section. Al.

My Holly Bank #3 is capable of being as slow, or slower than that on DC, but as I had mentioned earlier, I do see slight 'pulses' in the changes of poles, perhaps as slow as one pole per second. Al.

Hi Rob, I'm very surprised by your observations on slow running. I'm on DC using a Gaugemaster 'Model D' transformer / controller and mine's absolutely perfect down to and up from very, very low speeds, literally able to see the slow pulsing of the motor poles. For others, 'that YT video' refers to our mate 'Sam's Trains' video last night, criticising the slow running. I queried this, as I believe he uses the same controller, and mine's obviously so much better - it was out of the box, and has now run for hours and is if anything better still. When I was 'playing Silly B's' a couple of years ago, perhaps the only locomotives possibly better are my Hornby Princess Elizabeth and Royal Scot for micro-crawling. Al.

My Holly Bank: 1. DC running only - Gaugemaster transformer / controller. 2. Uses less power than other locomotives - perhaps '5 units' (percent) less. 3. Slow running is superb! Very slow, you can see slight jerks between motor poles. 4. Slow over Express points - it will stop - short wheelbase caught out. 5. Perhaps equivalent of 10+ mph and there's never an issue - perhaps just <1 wheel rotation per second. 6. Very initially, there's a little hesitancy whilst the axles are 'making contact with the chassis', but so far, after probably 5 hours' running, I've had no major issues to report, and can literally leave the little gem running slowly, smoothly for a couple of hours!! Hope that helps. Al.

I love my Holly Bank #3, but there is a 'but' .... I would not consider myself clumsy, but I did have one set of steps fall off, and the chimney as well - both were easily near-invisibly re-glued into place. For such a small locomotive, it is incredibly smooth, quiet and a fantastic performer. Al.