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peterm1

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Everything posted by peterm1

  1. peterm1
    Thanks Bob. I was worried about the watts though. Could it overload the amp?
  2. peterm1
    Hi all, I've got a speaker (ABS-229-RC). It has a nominal 1 watt and can go to 2 watt. I'm waiting for an MS480 to come back from Zimo and don't want to chance damaging the amp. Can I safely use this? Has anyone got a definite answer, please.
  3. peterm1
    The Zimo MS450 (replacing the MX645) Has 10 functions, as said, but the first two are lights forward and lights reverse. You still have eight to use. Also, depending on who the sound author is, you could have most of the 28 or more functions in the sound file.
  4. peterm1
    What you would need to do if possible is set the F2 button to momentary to have the best control over brake force.
  5. peterm1
    Seconded.
  6. peterm1
    Unfortunately, as I alluded to in my post, this sort of mess happens too often. You might be better off doing what I usually do, and strip the whole lot ote and wire it in the right colours.
  7. peterm1
    Raining stair rods.
  8. peterm1
    Carefully check the decoder socket. Best thing is to unscrew it and examine underneath as well as on top. I've had more than one socket with dodgy wiring causing problems like this. It just needs a tiny connection between two pins and you've got a fault. Another thing is that, sometimes the pins on the decoder can touch the chassis when the plug is pushed in to the socket. If so, snip the ends off of the long pins. You can also hard wire as I do.
  9. peterm1

    DCC Sound

    peterm1 replied to Chrisjh's topic in DCC Sound

    I have done that, but I'll try it again. Now to find it amongst the stuff that's laying about at the moment. :-)
  10. peterm1

    DCC Sound

    peterm1 replied to Chrisjh's topic in DCC Sound

    Same here, John. All decoders from Digitrains, sound files too. One loco; the DP1 has a Loksound because I couldn't get a decent file for a Zimo. Unless I start it at speed step 1, it won't start smoothly using the acc setting. CV2 is set at 1 and CV3 is at a high figure (can't remember exactly) and should be smoother, but that's another story.
  11. peterm1

    DCC Sound

    peterm1 replied to Chrisjh's topic in DCC Sound

    The short answer is, no. I've standardised on Zimo, because of their high quality. You can find a comprehensive list of their decoders and functions on their website. You'd have to go to other manufactures sites to find the details of their products. There are some functions that are required to be to NMRA standards, but they won't answer your question.
  12. peterm1
    I think there are still some glitches in the MS decoders. Is yours on the latest update? It's worth checking, but I think it's 4.241.
  13. peterm1
    You're right. It's a DP1. Raffertys rules usually prevail when I'm working on the layout. :-)
  14. peterm1
    Join the club with shaking hands. Really annoying when I'm trying to solder wires to a decoder. Sorry to hear you have that horrible disease.
  15. peterm1
    My two pennarth is that those motor connections look really dodgy. I'm inclined to think that the body presses one or both in to the chassis. Get practising with soldering to make those connections a lot neater is my advice, and make sure they're insulated from the chassis.
  16. peterm1
    It's not good when you may have to take up track to fix a problem, but I think your scenery is great. Keep the pic's coming.
  17. peterm1
    Having seen that the problem won't be sorted out here, I'll just say that if I have a loco with clean wheels and clean programming track, that still isn't making proper contact with that programming track, I carefully put a piece of lead on top. The extra weight works well. I must get round to asking my wife to bake a beanbag weight.
  18. peterm1
    Not sure if this will help or not, but would reducing the voltage output from the decoder help?
  19. peterm1
    You can also use led's on a control panel to where you've set the road. You don't even need resistors, as the Tortoise regulates the current to them.
  20. peterm1
    I use the method that Nigel has described about a twin power supply. It works really well with SPDT switches and you can also use one of the inbuilt Tortoise switches for frog polarity.
  21. peterm1
    How did you go with the answers from me and Nigel Cliffe?
  22. peterm1
    It's a weird one, but clutching at straws; is DC running disabled?
  23. peterm1
    I have Hornby loco's where the wires are all black and others where the red is connected to the left wheels instead of the right. So it seems like Raffertys rules for wiring. Having said that, I've corrected the wiring in most of the loco's that have been wrong, just for my own satisfaction. But which is the A or B end of my Bachmann DP2???
  24. peterm1
    Yes, that's about the only exception I can think of.
  25. peterm1
    If you want the cap's out, simply cut them off. If you want the inductors out, you have to replace them with wire.
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