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peterm1

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Everything posted by peterm1

  1. peterm1
    Nothing like mixing up the colours to throw you off the scent. Glad you sussed it out.
  2. peterm1
    I don't know how much room there is inside your loco, But you can get an adapter board with solder pads on it from Digitrains and probably others.
  3. peterm1
    Thanks Kevin. Why did I not think of rtfm.
  4. peterm1
    Thanks for the replies, Ian, I think so, but I'll substitute a new battery later. Kevin, It's RS Pro RS-14 Auto ranging digital MM. Kev, I think you've hit the nail on the head there. Another little job for later. I'll let you al know when I've tried the 9v battery and resistor.
  5. peterm1
    Hi all, I have a multi meter from RS here in Australia. I expected to find it to be good quality. Just for a test, I used the diode setting and tried it on a 3mm diffused green led expecting to see 2.3v or thereabouts, but nothing. I also tried it on resistance but still nothing. Have I got a duff MM or maybe didn't buy good enough quality? Any thoughts?
  6. peterm1
    Strange to see the trouble you're having with this. I have a mix of Lais stay alives and home made (by me) and have no trouble with reading or writing. I make up the small, simple charging circuit. If a two wire stay alive can be used, you could try one of the Lais, which are not expensive. Another way if there's room, is to put a small spst in one of the stay alive wires.
  7. peterm1
    Overall value for volume should be CV266 http://www.zimo.at/web2010/documents/MX-small-decoders_EN.pdf
  8. peterm1
    Seconded.
  9. peterm1
    Would it be safe to put a small capacity resistor across the programming track rails as well as having the loco on there?
  10. peterm1
    Just to add. The opposite can't/shouldn't be done. That is to run a non DCC fitted loco on a DCC track. Doing this can damage the motor.
  11. peterm1
    In the past, I've just done away with the pcb and made my own with a sheet of plasticard. Doing this enabled the lights on an old Hornby cl31 to be switched on and off at will. It might be simpler for you as well.
  12. peterm1
    Slightly late reply here... I have most parcels, especially expensive stuff fro England sent to my local post office "parcel collect." That way, if it does get lost, I have proof that I never received it.
  13. peterm1
    I like the rivet counters shop.
  14. peterm1
    A lovely scene, Rick.
  15. peterm1
    I don't know what the decoder is, but CV2 = 1 will be the lowest start voltage. I'd be using 128 speed steps for smooth running all round.
  16. peterm1
    I don't have experience of N gauge points, but I use Tortoise motors. This enables me to solder the joints between the point blade and frog rail. I use what ever is at hand, usually a bit of wire insulation to hold the blades central. The Tortoise motors are powerful enough to do the job and you never have to worry about wires breaking with the movement of the blades. I don't know if this would help with solenoids.
  17. peterm1
    Glad you got it figured out. I've done things like that myself. I think mine's down to short term memory loss as I get older.
  18. peterm1
    Reading this makes me wonder if that's what happened to me. I'm waiting on an MX658N18 to come back from Zimo which behaved really weirdly before dying. They also have an MS480 that just stopped working for no apparent reason. I do hope they get things sorted out soon.
  19. peterm1
    Zimo MX648 with speaker and Lais stay alive in the cab. Shrink wrap taken off the stay alive and painted black. Wrapping taken off of the decoder and replaced with Kapton tape.
  20. peterm1
    Yes it has a socket but for a 6 pin decoder. With the original DJM one, I put sound and stay alive. I'm just looking for a bit of advice from someone who's had one apart.
  21. peterm1
    I got this loco today from Frizinghall via ebay. I've been running it round for running in. I'll be putting sound in it, but it's obviously different to the old DJ models one I've got, where I had to cut the brake gear off to get the body off. I see it has a six pin socket in the boiler. When I get my MS480 back from Zimo I want to use that, but a bit of advice from someone that's had one apart and possibly fitted a sound decoder would be appreciated.
  22. peterm1
    I like that, Colin. Nice work.
  23. peterm1
    Thanks for that. I hadn't seen the 2015 newsletter.
  24. peterm1
    I've had my MXTAPS for quite a while now, but I've never been able to find a detailed manual/instruction sheet. Near to the top left, below the SUSI out connection is a jumper. It has *0C and LL beside it. This has been set to *0C since I've had it and I'd like to know what it is if anyone knows and could tell me. * I think these are zero's but may well be O's, but not fork andle's. I'd appreciate a bit of help without having to trouble Stephan at Zimo.
  25. peterm1

    RoS D class

    peterm1 posted a topic in DCC Sound

    Back again with another question. Has anyone had any trouble with the loco to tender plug/socket? It's just started having the sound cutting out momentarily and I've found that moving the loco or tender slightly causes it. I'd like some advice before ordering new parts and having to strip it down again.
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