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peterm1

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Everything posted by peterm1

  1. Sorry Andrue, but I really don't think using a frog juicer is the answer. It might seem to be complicated to use the switches in the stall motors, but it's not.
  2. That's how I do it for diamonds and slips.
  3. Yep. I've never found the need to use frog juicers. An answer to a problem that doesn't exist. Tortoise for me every time.
  4. I've had this problem more than once with quartering. Living in Australia, I tend to sort things out for myself, so I bought the NWSL quartering jig. When this happens and I track down which wheel it is ,I correct that one and see how it goes. Any tightness, and the others are fixed. I think you'd be surprised at how often this happens, particularly with the price of this stuff.
  5. The same thing happened when I ballasted my track. Nothing to worry about. I used the DCC Concepts method of ballasting which uses Meth's rather than detergent to spray and mix the pva with.
  6. Spot on. I resurrected an old split chassis J72 that had worn through the bearings/pickups with a Zimo decoder. I made phosphor bronze pick ups for. It sounds like a coffee grinders but runs as smooth as silk. If a Zimo can't fix it...
  7. You can go to the Zimo web site and have a trawl through, but it depends on what the author puts on in the way of features.
  8. ebay or amazon might be your friend here. They are JST. 2.5mm plugs and sockets with wires.
  9. Does the decoder/sound file have a means to rev the engine without the loco moving? Sometimes called speed lock
  10. Claud Butler bikes. Myself and my mates always wanted one of those. Centre pull brakes and Campag' gears. Never happened though.
  11. £30.00! Was it something really special? Digitrains charge £15.00 for a downloaded project. I get mine for £12.50 because I'm in Australia.
  12. I think battery replacement is the first step. It must be the cheapest and easiest thing to start with.
  13. Thanks for posting that. I'll see if I can get a water scene of some sort on my layout.
  14. I know very little about ESU decoders, but I think I read on here that you have to actuate the stay alive with one or more CV changes.
  15. We used to be able to pool our bus money and get a 3 pack of players weights. I think we could buy a book of matches too.
  16. One of the best boxes out there. Quick change with no clutch. Smooth as silk.
  17. I fitted my 0-4-0 diesel shunter with a Zimo MX648 and speaker with Lais stay alive, all in the cab. Now you'd be going for the MS500 which is smaller than the MX648. The MS500 has 4 functions which means you can have the lights working, as I have. Paul Chetters sound file from Digitrains is great and if you order it from them in the UK, they'll load the sound on for you.
  18. I'd be getting someone with a different command station to try it out. If Accurascale can't find a problem with other makes of controller, it must point to that. At least give it a try would be my suggestion.
  19. I always use the supplied Cap' and ground tabs if they're there. I don't know why you wouldn't.
  20. This reply is a long time coming, so you might have sorted it out by now, but a wired connection between cars is quite OK if you make sure to get the wires connected properly with no short circuits.
  21. I've used the common positive to operate a light and a stay alive and haven't had a problem.
  22. Thanks Paul, I changed CV111 from 1 to 0 and it now works. I just assumed that 0 would be maximum. That'll teach me not to assume.
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