2mm Dabbler

Pretty rare I'll agree. The Heinkel 178 and Caproni Campini N.1 (both experimental) were also tail draggers as were Messerschmitt 262 prototypes V1 to V4. The Attacker and the Yak 15 are, to my knowledge, the only operational military jets with this type of undercarriage, both having origins in propeller driven aircraft (Yak 9 for the 15). The Yak 15 was developed in to the 17 which had tricycle undercarriage.

There are a range of solvent-free contact adhesives available, UniBond as an example, and a gentleman I met last year at a local exhibition was demonstrating their use for laminating styrene sheets in building construction. I believe the adhesives are acrylic based, the Selleys brand I use (Australian) is certainly labelled as such. Michael

Understandable, removing material from either could lead to structure weakening at a critical point. Using the etched footplate in conjunction with some of the body castings might be feasible. If not then I know a few N/2mm modellers down here would probably be interested. Thanks Nigel

I'll second that! At risk of dragging the topic sideways, a rummage through the gloat box(es) revealed three Gem kits......I knew of one, suspected two but three! One's a badly built ebay rescue but the others appear untouched. Any suggestions other than back on ebay? Michael

That was Hardy Kruger and his character was Lt. Pieter Coetzee - a South African. I certainly agree we'll miss Mr Hauer: other films worth watching are "Flesh + Blood" and Fatherland Michael

That looks more like Barlow rail to me. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barlow_rail Michael

Perhaps something a little larger than a Clyde puffer? (not mine unfortunately) Michael

That experiment was shown on an ABC documentary last year. After the quolls had eaten the toad sausage the researchers peeked into their sleeping boxes - I recognised the expression on the quolls faces - bad kebab, BAD KEBAB! There's a few in quiet spots around here, I braked hard one night near my brother's house (Terrigal NSW) to avoid one, sadly within a month someone else had skittled the poor thing. Michael

Not too hard really. I made one some time ago to fit on a Unimat 3. It was took an evening to make with all machining done the machine itself, including motor cooling down periods and the fairly gentle cuts needed with steel on these machines to avoid stalling. I made it for Phil Badger who seemed satisfied with its performance. The original MRJ article was in issue 79, Geoff Helliwell describing its construction for his Cowells machine. I really must make one for myself. As that issues long out of print I could send a scan in few days if you're interested. Michael Edit: Colin Binnie may have been first (no surprise) http://www.webring.org/l/rd?ring=16mmgardenrailw1;id=69;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwfvr%2Ewebs%2Ecom%2F

Thank you David for responding to my questions. The carbide on styrene was simply something I recall reading without the experience of having tried it. I have a similar memory of someone machining Perspex and using water as a coolant - again I've not tried it. Contributor Bertiedog (I don't know Stephen's last name) has apparently for some time been using 3mm burr-sided milling cutters with success as his post #37 on the 'Lathes & M/C tools' shows. I've used them when grooving a handwheel for a collet drawbar and a clamping knob for a workbench lamp: results were good. I've also milled urethane when working on Mink d in 2mm with an excellent finish. This, incidentally, was from a casting courtesy of Phil Badger (Ixion etc). These cutters are also extremely inexpensive. I've also milled Mazak, a Fleischmann 'Black Anna' body, using an FC3 cutter. I was quite smug when I machined off the tank filler hatches without touching the tank top and leaving no witness marks. Much less smug when I later started milling out the inside of the body and this time used an older cutter which had probably been used on steel.........At least the horrible finish couldn't be seen from the outside. As far as the various coatings go, they seem to be common on cheaper drillbits; definitely not for serious use. However I was recently machining some stainless steel of unknown but less than friendly characteristics with inserted tip tooling and TiN coated tips lasted far longer. Regards Michael

Chris isn't the only person modelling Newcastle - Ross Balderson is modelling Newcastle circa 1890 in N and making a marvellous job of it. If you've seen his model of Central then you'll know what to expect! Shipping, steam trams etc. Looking forward to seeing Chris's work again, I also totally agree regarding stupid government decisions. Regards Michael

I have been greatly enjoying this topic, not to mention previous ones and your website. Your eye for the finer details and skill in representing them are both fascinating and inspiring. Particularly with the Victory class which I've been taken with since I encountered Don Townsley's drawings 40 odd years ago. It's compact but powerful - a 'pocket Hercules' of a loco with a classic design. Also pleasing is your ready use of machine tools, especially as a Unimat 3 was one of my first serious purchases and still gives great satisfaction. A question in that regard: a little while back in MRJ I believe I remember seeing an article where the author (can't remember, sorry) preferred carbide tooling when machining styrene as the material didn't heat up as much, so reducing the risk of melting small or thin sections. Would I be correct is assuming your milling cutters are HSS? Regards Michael McLachlan

Something like this should work http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Walkera-W010-Gear-Pinion-Puller-Remover-Tools-Set-For-RC-Motor-Pinion-Parts-SH-/252497870950?hash=item3aca0bc066:g:QNsAAOSwV0RXrfAO I've goy an earlier version with a fixed lower plate and it works very well. Regards Michael

I've read of a few similar conversions in the Unimat Yahoo group. As well as the circlip fitted to the end and the flat on shaft the gear or belt sprocket is also fitted with a very strong retaining compound/adhesive. Most have had to heat the fitting with a small gas torch to degrade the grip of the adhesive. One fellow however, pointed out that the sprocket was sintered and quite brittle - he rested it on an anvil and used a cold chisel. I have a similar conversion intended for my Unimat 3. which will at least overcome the intermittent duty cycle.

The GW Models rivetting tool is well made and I believe well regarded but would you pay in excess of 125% of the new price? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GW-Models-Rivet-Press-Tool-for-2mm-4mm-7mm-scales-/331344032235?nma=true&si=2evlUUssH63Gz0HdzyRf89%252FjgDo%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557#ht_453wt_1153 Michael

Don't forget the cligwrap trick; used with a little foilage or long flock and any gaps are nigh invisible.. OH GOO! Michael

Here here. Wonderfully delicate work and you've captured the mucky/greasy areas perfectly. Michael

I believe that would be Bollingrove, Railway of the Month in the January '84 RM. From memory the locos in the accompanying photos were courtesy of Richard and Tim. Michael

Indeed, Tim has written about this elswehere. Interestingly, the first photo posted by Redkiterail above shows what the Copenhagen Fields team call 'Mrs Wilberforce's Yard'. The site occupied by the house is at the left of the photograph, just where the street ends. There's a couple of delightful little cameos relating to the film as well. Michael

According to the 2mm Handbook these were developed by Geoff Jones, who has subsequently developed Versaline. The original versions were nickel plated and the pin on the bottom glued into drilled holes in the sleepers using Unibond: a jig used for the drilling no doubt. The rail was then soldered in using 60/40, the nickel plating containing the whitemetal whilst the now softened Unibond allowed the gauge to be adjusted at the same time. The later unplated variant was to be soldered using low melting point solder. I quote "even in skilled hands calls for time and patience" - I'll say! Geoff's a highly skilled 2mm modeller and well known as a track and tool guru. If you can corner him for a chat you'll learn a lot: I did! Michael

Lovely, made a fresh cuppa and then watched several times over with the sound up and occasional pauses for greater appreciation. Tortoise I believe, according to a post from late '09. Impressed Michael

Aside from Jerry's mentioning of odd numbered laminations, a recommendation from a professional model builder I spoke to was to avoid using solvent to bond the layers, this included solvent based contact/impact adhesives such as Evostick. He used acrylic based contact/impact adhesives with great success. I'm unfamiliar with UK brands though I'm sure Bostik and the others have something suitable. Tom, I'm really enjoying your blog, excellent modelling with the trackwork being particularly impressive, Regards Michael

Some time ago there was a small range of card models for 009 under the name of, if I remember correctly, Guidelines. Some North Wales Narrow Gauge Railway and Welsh Highland Railway stock. Aside from the printed card sufficient blank material was included to make up the three layers recommended. Cut out the main body parts with a good margin, then glue to another two layers under weight. When properly dry, cut out neatly, add bodyside detail from single layers of card and carefully glue together avoiding smears. Again when dry give several coats of very thin shellac. The resulting bodies were remarkably strong. I've had a small demonstration workbench at a couple of regional shows and whilst mostly showing the joys of soldering I keep one of these bodies handy to show there are alternatives. Gripped between the finger across the ends or floor (strongest points of course) you can squeeze them quite heavily without ill effect. And I like Paul's van, it looks good and has character. Michael

Four wheels for the J72 are visible - the other two are.....? Choice of hidden/lost/stolen/not ordered/out of stock Following the blog Michael

Ebay item number 260791195982 or look for seller mikeskits Regards Michael