dasatcopthorne

Hello All. Can anyone help me with the following. I have just fitted the above chip with a Train-o-Matic Stay-Alive. The instructions state that you need to set CV124 to 16 from the default of 24. I have the Loksound manual but I don't understand what the value of 16 does. One thing I have noticed is the when starting away, the loco now moves off before the brake release and other sounds are completed that it used to make before the alteration. Also, without the alteration the stay alive does not seem to have any effect. Finally, I have failed to find this instruction about CV124 anywhere else at all. Dave.

I would like to direct this to Martin Wynne. I have seen your suggestion of where to cut the webbing to curve a turnout but I want to 'straighten' the curve of a left hand A5 turnout to for a 'Y'. Where would you suggest I cut the webbing to accomplish this please? Dave.

I'm using rail bought from EM Gauge Soc. Seems to fit well and also good for Exacto chairs. I wouldn't ha e there was too much h extra cost but us punters would pay that anyway . Just a suggestion.

Thanks all. I've just received my British Finescale order. Wish me luck? Dave.

Hi Guys. I have just received my first order of British Finescale points. A couple of A5 which I hope to curve more into Ys to suit a crossover on a S bend. They look rather good. However I would like to suggest a small change or addition to the kits. Many of us will be building track on portable baseboards and a point on a joint is always best avoided if possible. This often results in a point needing to be very close to a baseboard joint but just far enough away to fit some sort of motor underneath(and be able to get to it for adjustments). I am suggesting that the stock rails could be supplied 2 or 3 inches longer. This would, in many cases, avoid silly very short piece of track from the heal to the baseboard edge. They could be offered as 'Extended Turnouts' with a small extra charge. I'm OK as I still have code 75 BH left over from my 16.2mm days. Just a suggestion as a know a friend has ordered 2' and 3' Tim Horn boards to avoid this problem. Anyway. Wayne. Thanks a ton for producing these kits. Dave.

Surely there is a recognised standard. NEM! Dave.

Don't forget to weather the rails before anything else but after soldering any wires to them. I use Birchwood Casey 'Super Blue. It's not paint so cannot peal off.

Yes. All the above are correct in my experience.

Easily available as butanone on eBay.

Here's are two lists I still have for Leggoman Loksound V4 class 37 loco. Hope they help. Dave. Biffo's version 37/4 of his sound file (not the loco class) dated 2018 F0 Lights F1 Sound on / off F2 Playable high horn F3 Playable low horn F4 Buffer Clash on slow speed F5 Air brake release F6 Driver's door open / close F7 Compressor F8 Air tanks or Spirax valves popping F9 Automatic Speed dependant Flange/Wheel Squeel. F10 Despatch whistle F11 Not Used F12 Roof fan / cooler group F13 Sanders F14 Exhauster low speed F15 Exhauster high speed (F14 must be on first) F16 Not Used F17 Not Used F18 Not Used F19 Not Used F20 Aux Here's another list. Biffo called this version 'Multi Start' from 2015. Function key layout – diesel & electric locomotives F0 Lights F1 Sound on / off (this may be operated in the normal manner, but see also below for operation of ‘Multistart’ on diesel locos, and operation of handbrake on electric locos) F2 Playable high horn F3 Playable low horn F4 Buffer clash F5 Air release F6 Driver's door slam F7 Compressor on diesel locos / main compressor on electric locos F8 Spirax valves popping F9 Automatic flange squeal F10 Despatch whistle F11 Guard to driver 'right away' signal F12 Roof fan / cooler group F13 Sanders F14 (On diesel locos) Exhauster low speed F15 (On diesel locos) Exhauster high speed (F14 must be on first) F14 (On electric locos) Automatic wheelslip F15 (On electric locos) Mk3 coach wail F16 (On electric locos) Neutral section (press on to trigger, then press off) F21 Aux 1 (for cab lights etc) F22 Aux 2 (for cab lights etc) ‘Multistart’ engine priming & starting (where applicable) On all projects F1 can be used in the normal manner to start and stop engine sounds. However, some projects feature the ability to stop and restart the priming sequence, prolong engine cranking and / or cause an engine start to fail. This is all achieved by the use of F1 as follows; 1. To carry out a complete, uninterrupted engine start sequence turn F1 on as normal and leave it on. The engine will prime for around 20 seconds, crank and then start. Once the loco is idling, pressing F1 will cause the engine to stop in the normal manner. To actively control the priming, cranking or starting, proceed as follows; 2. Press F1 to start the engine priming sequence. Priming will continue for a pre-determined period of around 20 seconds but can be cut short at any time by turning F1 off again. If you allow the priming pump to come to a complete standstill you can then press F1 again to restart the priming sequence from the beginning. By this method priming may be carried out any number of times as required Alternatively, if you turn F1 on again whilst the engine priming pump is running or still winding down then the engine will begin to crank once the priming pump stops. 3. Once cranking has begun, leaving F1 on will cause the cranking to continue for a pre-determined time and then the engine will start. To prolong the cranking or cause a failed start, proceed as follows once cranking has begun; Turning off F1 and leaving it off will cause a failed start after a prolonged period of cranking. Turn F1 back on again to restart the cranking sequence. Alternatively, F1 can be turned off to prolong the cranking and turned back on again at any point to trigger the engine to start. Cranking may be prolonged in this way for around 30 seconds but if it is allowed to go too far (ie if F1 isn’t turned back on in time) the failed start will be triggered. Once a failed start has been triggered, turning F1 back on again will restart engine cranking. By use of the F1 key as above, subsequent start attempts may be prolonged or failed any number of times. 4. The control of priming and cranking is completely independent, ie you may control neither, priming only, cranking only or both.

So I found out to my disadvantage. I arrived at Sheffield Park and had a quick look in the shed to discover the almost complete lack of use so decided to hop on the train in the platform to travel upto HK, only to see it pull out. Absolutely nothing about this in the exhibition information. So I drove to HK and could not find a parking place near enough to the station from where I could manage the walk. Went home p***** off. Someone needs to get their act together. I know they are volunteers but the railway charge enough for a ticket. If they did repeat layouts from last year, it's a pity as there are a lot of Model Railway Clubs around the Bluebell to source exhibits from. Won't go again.

I often raise the couplings using a slither of 5 or 10thou plastic card under the coupling as i push it into a socket. I need mine dead correct as I use the Brian Kirby idea of magnetic uncoupling. Only works with Bachmann couplings so I also replace most of them with their shortest version which also closes the gap. Dave.

1. I have been adjusting these hooks for a few years now. Closing up the loop to stop the hook pulling out or using a round file to open the hole so the hook drops back down. 2. Uncoupling usually happens because one coupling is higher than the other and not fully engaging in the opposite loop. Dave.

Do you mean the same layouts?. I didn't get invited back! Dave.

Any more news yet, of what layouts are attending anyone please? Dave

Hope people don't mind me asking here but I feel that there are likely more readers here with experience of this. I already have a layout using the Peco stuff and am thinking of extending. Two turnouts on the extension need to form a crossover on an S bend. I have considered British Finescale be not sure how it compares in height with Peco. Any help much appreciated. Dave.

Station are looking much better now. Dave.

Trackwork at this stage was almost complete but yet to be wired. Dave

Keith. I posted a set of Tadpole pics in this forum some time ago for Darius. Search for DEMU and it should come up. Dave.

Andy. Looking along the roofs, the usual spacing of the vents on BR Standard (SR) Emus is 40" (my measurement) but I think the DEMUs' were 25.5". At the moment I'm unable to find my measurements of the position of the exhaust vent. Sorry. Dave Smith