dasatcopthorne

Sometimes I use this at Shows if I need to clean one loco. Turn it over and touch the wheels and use a cotton bud. For both methods, I have a couple of 4mm Banana sockets on the from of my layout board, wired to the DCC. (I operate from the front.) 4mm Banana plugs on the leads as well as crocodile clips with banana sockets built in. Dave

Winter sun rarely penetrates as far as places like Elbow Lane but here the local shunter has been caught 'red handed' one late afternoon. I wonder if anyone is going to grab themselves a free trolley. The layout is off the Risex on 18th February if anyone would like to see it in the flesh. Dave.

Thanks. Never realised Mineral Spirit was the same as White Spirit. When my WD40 runs out I'll be changing. Another step forward in track and wheel cleaning. Appreciated. Dave.

As long as you wire your DC points with insulating fishplates on both frog exit rails, then all will be OK. If you include section switches to isolate DC locos, then just turn them all on for DCC. Simples. We have two club layouts like that. Dave.

Why I use WD40 Contact Cleaner. Here is the article that changed my thinking on the subject. https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/mrhpub.com/2019-05-may/online/index.html?page=9 There's no doubt that others work. I've used IPA very successfully as I does clean thing but now I feel WD40 CC is a further step forward. I've used it on my own samll offering and on our Club Roundy Round to very good effect and I won't be going back to IPA. Dave.

Guys. The geezer with the dog waiting for a bus needs naming please for a little question time at our next show. let your imagination loose. Dave.

Here we go again. He seems to have forgotten that his last Mid Kent thingy was Mid Kent Model Railway Club not Group. Why would a Mid Kent anything organise a show in Witham? Dave.

The signs for the disposal of Elbow Buildings have recently gone up. I kind of like then but change is always happening.

I use this. A length of track with two Furniture pads inserted. The feeds plug into my layout so I can clean during a show if required. Pads are soaked with the best cleaner I have ever used. Also used to clean rails. Brilliant. Dave.

You no doubt have no money troubles then. Anyway, I'm guessing that most don't mind some ads but at the moment they're all over the place.

I cannot even scroll past the Ads now as when I do the Ad transfers to the bottom right and covers up the Ad for BRM mag.

Tamiya or at least their dealers must be wondering what is going on. My saw arrived yesterday. Super and it's a pull saw as well. Dave.

No need to employ someone. It's all offered Free on here and elsewhere but they don't seem to want it in a lot of instances. Dave.

Thanks for all the help Guys. I'll put one or two out of your misery now. Haha. The layout, a circular one, has little groups or turnouts around the circumference from where the layout is operated. Very small panels are sighted near the pointwork and the switched positioned there. Thus, there are three bus wires. 12v + , 0v and 12v Neg. The 12v+ and 12v- feed the switches and return via the 0v return bus. So, three bus wires but no long feeds from a central panel. This is because we operate from round the outside. Track power will also be DCC very soon. Dave.

A useless advert as it doesn't state what drill bit sizes it can handle. Dave.

Paul. Why do you need two return wires? Dave.

Thanks Paul. Out supply is and will be adequate for our needs. Dave.

Cassettes? Yes a good idea. But think of the size from a differing angle. Allow room for your longest train and two locos. One in and one out. Allow room to uncouple and pull items of rolling stock apart. If you intend to exhibit this layout, try to make all boards of the same dimensions. You might want to stack them together. Get the Peco turnout templates to ensure you allow enough for them on the fiddleyard board. Maybe set the 3 way on the layout board and not the fiddleyard board. Another choice would be a sector plate. Good luck Dave.

Thanks for your replies Guys. What is a 'stacked DC supply' please. Also, this is a new power supply for an existing layout so all the 'incorrect' style of switches are already installed and are not DPDT. The only difference in the wiring 'my' wiring is that one pole on each motor is commoned throughout. Two wires to the switch but only one wire to the motor. Thanks Dave.

Mmmmm. Interesting. Guess I'll have to buy one first as even the 2 amp versions seem to offer 3 terminals for the 230vac connection. Thanks. Dave.

Thanks for that. Is there any reason why you cannot treat them like transformers and use two with a Pos and Neg joined to supply 12v - 0v - 12v- for Tortoise motors please? Dave.

Hi All. I am new to the above items. Is anybody using them please and are there any drawback? Dave.

Can't you 'Group' a set of templates and 'mirror' them? Dave.

I've used a ballast spreader on Code 100, 83 and 75. Thin and thick sleepered. The trick is practising. Hover it up with a popsock or the foot of tights to catch the dry ballast and return it for more practice. Adjust the speed of movement to match the thickness of your sleepers. Then tap the track to dislodge ballast from the top of sleeper as well as running a finger or thumb along the track to spread any excess. Lastly, use a small square ended brush to poke some ballast under the rails if there is a gap in the track you use. Wet the ballast thoroughly with 'wet' water (washing up liquid or IPA) and then use you mixture of choice. 50/50 water/PVA or water/matt acrylic varnish, both with a tough of washing up liquid or IPA. There's nothing like a 6" test piece to get it right. Good luck. Dave

Eight Dollar can be seen in its new configuration at the Warley Show next November. Dave.