daifly

So am I and it works fine. Have you done a hard reset of your iPad. I do it periodically - it fixes all sorts of problems! Dave

Try https://www.422modelmaking.co.uk/resin-kits Dave

If this type of Google response becomes a problem, simply include UK as part of the search. E.g. 'Portland stone wagon UK' avoids all of the Oregon irrelevances. Dave

D6324 is a NB Type 2! Dave

It doesn't matter because the WT server will relay your PM to his email address. He can only reply to you via WT - no hardship! Dave

Friction is probably not the major force to overcome. It's the flexibility of the switch rails (or not!) that the Tortoise has to work against. Dave

Steve is Mr Tiger Viking on WT. Dave

Sort of - it says 'Wet Paint' - it's legible on a better copy of the photo! Dave

Wasn't that mentioned a while back here? Dave

When it comes to weathering, note how the area above the windows has remained very dirty and uncleaned compared with this June 68 photo: Dave

Any help? No date, sorry. Dave

The bogie length should be of little consequence since the buffers are attached to the body. It will be the geometry of the loco - bogie centres v overall length - that would give you a clue. I have to ask the question why would you buy the short radius 'trainset' points if you are contemplating using large locos? The 'trainset' points are 22mm shorter than the normal medium-radius Peco points.The major difference is the turnout angle which is only ever going to work properly with short-wheelbase locos and wagons. Even prototype dock lock locos had huge buffers to avoid buffer locking. Dave

No need to re-invent the wheel. The wiring for a ‘scissors’ crossover is shown in the original online Guild Manual on pages 8-3-12/3 Dave

Sorry Paul Nonsense! With point motors wired in crossover pairs, they are either straight or crossover. You only switch the pair that you require. An interlock to prevent the other pair being set to conflict would be a smart move for the reason you've highlighted. The other pair remain on the 'straight road" Dave

You theatricals know how to live!

Best I can find! Dave

To save you the trouble Jim, it's MRJ 12, 13, 14 & 15. A series called 'Scratchbuilding Model Wagons'. Dave

I think that .pdf files will always be attachments rather than displayed. To display a drawing or picture it needs to be in e.g. .png or .jpg format. Like this: Cheers Dave

I believe that these were produced for PD by Powsides so the 'ownership' is probably a bit 'muddy'. Dave

Perhaps he is familiar with Pythagoras and has already calculated how little is to be gained - much less than a metre.Dave

I think you will find that with a minimum radius of, say, 6ft, the FY entry curve will start at about 7ft from one end which means that an L-shape is much less efficient than you think as you then have only a 9ft straight portion with, potentially, lots of curved pointwork. The end of the FY entry curve would only allow about a 4ft-long traverser/sector plate or w.h.y. You can still do a lot with a straight 5m/16ft run without having to compromise by using tight radius curves or A5 turnouts on main lines. Less is more! Dave

I presume that you are tempted by this! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173412257251?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT If you can’t justify the cost of the MOK kit, the MMP version should be a pedigree item. I was very tempted myself as it has a BR1G tender suitable for a WR loco, but can’t envision needing one to keep my MOK 9F company! Dave

It might be worth looking at the A1-size sheets of foam board from e.g. Hobbycraft. Less joins, much cheaper etc. Dave

The photos. Jordan apologises for the quality in his thread! It was 2008 and a phone camera. We've come a long way since then! I have the complete original 2008 RMWeb thread with all photos included which I can send as a .pdf if anyone wants it. Send me a PM with your email address. Dave

If you can’t find your photos, I’ve got copies and will post them tomorrow. Dave