Captain Kernow

I do like these, Andrew, especially the little diesel shunter - what is the origin of that one please?

Good points there, Colin, I feel. Isn't the new building at Nantmawr also a similar replica pattern to the new structure at Pont Croesor?

A couple more images from my recent visit:

D6318 waits for the road at Engine Wood, whilst shadowing a 'Western'-hauled excursion train over the Somerset & Dorset: A few years earlier, 44422 shunts the yard at Engine Wood: The above photo and digital sky cleverness by Chris Nevard, courtesy of Hornby Magazine

I wonder if you could consider the new trackwork and rebuilt formation on the WHR like a new or re-built road - the analagy being that a new road is a bit of an eyesore in the beginning, but when it starts to weather down and 'bed in' with the surrounding landscape, it begins to look more like 'it belongs there?'... Perhaps we'll have slightly dodgier track, a few more weeds and a bit more 'careworn' atmosphere on the WHR in 20 years, which I would assume would actually add to the atmosphere? On a different note, I would assume that the Garratts were only obtained because they were felt to be the only locos capable of working the line in the modern day with planned train lengths etc. In point of fact, my train last week stood at Bedgellert for amost 20 mins 'for pathing purposes' - so I'm wondering whether (in the fullness of time) a small fleet of replica Russells might be capable of handling the traffic? Having said that, I'd never had the opportunity to see a Garratt working anywhere else in my experience so far, so I am still a fan of them!

Thanks folks, you all seem to agree with my belated prognosis that many of these freight-only lines were still kept tidy in the steam era, and as for the very good advice of following the photos is concerned, that's actually what got me thinking in the first place. The photos of Stroud Wallbridge, Dudbridge Junction, Nailsworth etc. all bear out a tidy and weed-free running line, with grot in the sidings. Accordingly, I will scale back the amount of weed growth on the running lines on Callow Lane, and have sidings with cinder/grunge/mud ballast, with actual stone ballast showing through in places (which is also what Chris Nevard did ). I am treating all the turnout areas properly with proper ballast, including the beginnings of each of the four sidings, and will blend the gunge in gradually.... I think I will allow the grass to grow freely and long on the old disused platform, however, much as per a number of photos I've seen, with a just-discernible walking route through the middle of it, where railwaymen have used it... As for Miss Prism's comment about the line being 'about to close', well, I have a special Time-Space Continuum Selection Switch - in 'Position A' the line closed in 1966, along with the rest of the S&D and the ex-Midland routes around Mangotsfield, whereas if I select 'Position B', you find coal seams that lasted longer, a chocolate factory that refused to die, and (pre-TOPS) blue era diesels trundling around.....

The locos and rolling stock may (in most cases) be more modern and less like what went before, but if you go to a remote stretch of lineside, just the track and the gorgeous scenery, there is still surely the magic of such places, as you sit with just the wind and wildlife for company, and wait to see whether a train might appear?.....

I'm not sure that he did publish a photo of it, but I have copied mine from his. It's a small piece of balsa wood, with half a cocktail stick glued into a pre-drilled hole...

In my previous blog entry, I referred to the fact that the ballast on the main running lines on Callow Lane would be 'grunged up', with mud/cinders mixed in with the ordinary ballast, plus weed growth. Since making that comment, I've been checking out some photos of goods-only lines in the area (North Bristol/Gloucestershire) in the period (1960s), in particular the former MR Stroud & Nailbridge branches (the Oakwood book by Colin Maggs), and I've noted that despite these being freight-only lines, the ballast on the running lines appears neat and devoid of weeds and grot. So, I'm thinking, that I might scale the 'grungification' of Callow Lane back a bit, and just have the 'cinders/mud' ballast on the sidings only?...

With regards to what Craig has said about the connecting pieces, I have removed virtually all of these once the track was glued down, using a 10A scalpel blade on a normal Swann Morton handle. As regards Klear v's PVA, I do plan to apply some dilute PVA to the Klear-treated ballast on an experimental section, as I sense that the latter could be a tad fragile in the event of some kind of knock, but the initial fixing will continue with Klear, as I'm cautious about the use of water so close to steel rail....

More work has been done in the last few weeks on the ballasting. It should be borne in mind that although the ballast currently looks quite pristine, this is a goods-only line in the early-mid 1960s, and there is still grot, cinder/mud effects and weed growth to add. Some of the sleepers haven't yet been weathered and most of the rail sides will need more weathering as well. Also, the actual point rodding has yet to be installed. The general method of ballasting the full-depth sleepers of the P4 Track Co/Exactoscale track is to apply the loose, dry ballast, dampen with IPA alcohol and drop Klear onto the tops of the sleepers with a pipette type thing. First of all, some views of the ballast, which has been tamped but not yet dampened or had the Klear applied: Shortly after taking the above photos, I applied the Klear. Until the Klear has dried out, the whole thing looks horrible to my eyes, as despite the IPA (which is supposed to help the Klear spread without disturbing the ballast), a fair number of ballast disturbances inevitably occur.... This is the simple tamping tool that I use to tamp the loose ballast down (thanks to Re6/6 for his suggestion with this one): Here is a bit of plain track, which has had the Klear treatment, and some of the irregularities smoothed out: Here is another section of plain line, in this case, the running line towards Coalpit Heath: I've found that I've had to be extra careful in the area around point blades when applying the Klear, in order not to gum the whole lot up solid. I've inserted thin strips of grease-proof paper (thanks to Will Vale for that suggestion) between the blades and the slide chairs, which seems to have helped. In the case of the 3-way point with it's copper-clad sleepers, the lower depth of the sleepers meant that I could use my normal 'Captain's Method' of applying the PVA neat between the sleepers with a small paintbrush and applying the ballast dry from above, vacuuming the rest off when the PVA has dried. I much prefer this method generally for the better control it gives you when ballasting, although it is very time-consuming as well (but possibly not as time-consuming or as fraught as trying to get all the loose ballast neat with a tamping tool and a small brush!). This is the 3-way point: Most of the sidings on the layout will feature a cinder/mud type of 'ballast', up to (or almost up to) the sleeper tops, with weed growth etc. Some 'mud/cinders' (in the form of Humbrol Air Clay - thanks to Chris Nevard for that one!) will also be applied on areas where there is currently 'pristine ballast', so that 'ballast effects' will be seen poking through the mud and the grot. The principle is that the main running lines would have had some ballast to start with (although it is mostly pretty grotty by now), whereas the sidings would not have. Despite appearances, there are no ballast shoulders on the layout, and more 'cinders/mud' type grot will abut the ballasted areas and merge with same.

Oh, I do agree, but for me I think I would like a portal into an alternative Kontinuum, whereby a weed-grown WHR existed and lovely locos like that ran, but then able to return to the Garratt Kontinuum to enjoy that too!

But that's like just putting valve gear on one side of your loco only - it's just not cricket!!

When up on the WHR last week, I asked a number of members of staff whether the railway would be running in November and December this year, as the timetable doesn't yet show any information. The theme of most peoples replies was that if the bypass was at a sufficiently completed stage (as regards the WHR), then some running between Porthmadog and Bedgellert might take place, with the rest of the line under maintenance. However, I was advised to ring the company offices nearer the time, which seems like good advice. No one mentioned any issues with ROGs, the flat crossing or the level crossings/signalling in the town. Interesting discussion about a bridge over the Cambrian or WHR at Porthmadog. In fact, a bridge over the Cambrian would not really be possible without also putting in a bridge over the main road and also completely rebuilding the passenger station on an elevated level or a new site. It's just too close to the flat crossing, and isn't something that Network Rail would ever contemplate with the current climate and other priorities etc. I do hope that differences between the WHHR and WHR/FR are finally resolved. I do appreciate the efforts that the WHHR have gone to, to keep the 'flame alight' over the years, and they have a very pleasant set-up in Porthmadog, but in all honesty, now that it's here, this is the kind of thing that I most want to see :

Presumably Andrew, if using staples to represent the spikes (a wholly laudable idea, by the way - I used a soft copper wire bent over to make around 1000 individual spikes for Bleakhouse Road, never again!!) - you will need to drill each copper clad sleeper four times (more on pointwork)?

Hi Robin, I'm having a bit of bother finding the Faber Castell crayons locally in Devon - is there a retail outlet in the Bristol area that I could visit for some, when I'm next up that way, please? Edit Sat 31/7/10 - I'm going to try out some alternative pencils from my local art shop in Totnes this afternoon... Also, I was pondering on the method of application - presumably it's to do with having the crayon/pencil sharp enough to colour one individual brick in one quick stroke, and to build the colour/overall effect up cumulatively, as you do each brick with whatever colour you are using in the range?

Fascinating Robin - it looks like you simply use these crayons straight on a base of sprayed-on grey primer?

Peter, just found this blog, what stunning, wonderful work, thank you for sharing this. I have one question, however, which is to ask how you achieve your mortar effects on 4mm scale brickwork, please? Thanks.

Only thing is, mine won't be re-painted in NCB livery..... But that wasn't all of it, there were a couple of other mint Heljan items there, that were obtained for someone else at very good prices.....

I had a bit of a surprise today... When I went into The Model Shop, Exeter today, he had a brand new condition Hattons/Heljan Class 14 in the second hand display cabinet. Wasn't expecting to see one so soon..... When I left the shop, it wasn't in the second hand cabinet any more....

I think that meshing vindicates my previous opinion, John, in that it doesn't need any highlighting and looks great in photographs too!

Hi Will, Well, I was recommended by someone else who has used it more than me, that I should leave it a couple of days, but I must admit that the following morning it did seem quite hard.... I'm planning to do the bit next to the previous PVA section with Klear, and it will be interesting to see whether there is a colour variation - shouldn't have thought so, and in any case, more track weathering will follow that will render that less of an issue...

I have this evening used some Klear. It will need a couple of days to dry, and in any case as it's an experimental section on a siding, the ballast will eventually get partially covered with Humbrol air clay, a la Nevard....

Thanks for the Klear suggestion - it had been on my radar to use this stuff, but Re6/6 had a bit of a scare with it on Matford, so I decided not to use it, can it be diluted is the next question?

I've made a start on the weathering of the track and ballasting on Callow Lane. I would normally do all the track weathering first, which usually involves painting and/or dry brushing each individual sleeper, plus painting the rail sides and chairs varying shades of light/mid rust-brown/brake dust etc. This would then be followed by ballasting/siding grunge/weed growth etc. My ballasting methods on previous layouts such as 'Engine Wood' and 'Bleakhouse Road' have generally involved painting PVA between each individual sleeper bay (3 or 4 at a time before the glue starts to go off), and sprinking ballast on top of the glue. The shallow depth of C&L or SMP sleepers makes this possible and I have been very happy with the results. Callow Lane, however, uses track with 'full depth' sleepers from the P4 Track Co/Exactoscale, and when I tried 'The Captain's normal method', this was the result I got: I'm using a mixture of beach sand and 2mm ballast from the likes of Woodland Scenics and Carrs, and I wasn't particulary happy with either of the above two experimental sections. The ballast was too low, and I didn't like the way it clung to the slides of the sleepers on one of the sections. It might be possible to repeat the process to get the required ballast depth, but I simply couldn't face that.... So, this time, I have reverted to an alternative method, which is used by many others and which I have used myself in the past, involving the laying the dry ballast first, very gently wetting it with a misting spray and then dropping dilute PVA (with a drop of washing up liquid in it) onto the damp ballast. Here is a 9 inch stretch where the ballast has been wettened and dilute PVA applied. The cut up bits of bin bag are obviously there to protect the rest of the layout, including any of the steel rail within range of the spray: The bit of vertical white plasticard is a temporary representation of the brick face of the old disused platform, which will be installed once the ballasting etc. has been completed. I would add that it took over half an hour just to get the ballast reasonably neat on that 9 inch section, plus a fair bit of time faffing around wetting it, applying the glue and clearing up! Here is a shorter section which I did a couple of days ago, at least the glue has now dried solid (initially I used too dilute a mixture, and had to give it two goes, the glue I used tonight has a bit more PVA in it!): 08/7/10 Well, I've tried vibrations (to settle the ballast more evenly), and I've tried Klear on the ballast. The latter was more successful, but despite it's lack of viscosity, it is still apt to form 'bubbles' in the ballast, displacing carefully laid and tamped material... :headbang: Anyway, I did a section on the main running line tonight and when it's dry, I'll see how durable it is and how neat the ballast has come out. 09/7/10 The bit I did with Klear yesterday didn't come out too badly, but one or two small sections came away when I vacuumed up residue this evening. Some small spots of PVA have secured new ballast to fill the gaps. I've now done another section with Klear, however, this time using a small wooden tamper tool (idea from Re6/6) to tamp the ballast down neatly when still dry, and then have applied the Klear, which seems to disturb the ballast less, when it's been tamped with the wooden tamper tool. I've also deposited much of the Klear on the sleeper tops, from whence it has flowed around the ballast. We'll see how the sleepers have dried in the morning.... However, another advance is the use of grease-proof paper (idea from Will Vale on this forum), to tamp down any wet blobs of ballast, once the Klear has been applied. What's also been quite effective is using the wooden tamper tool on top of the grease-proof paper...