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jpendle

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Everything posted by jpendle

  1. OK I am thinking of using Cobalts instead of Tortoises in some confined spaces on my layout and have found the technical bits of this thread intriguing. (The non technical bits have been fun as well ) I am unclear as to the benefits of self centering using addresses 198 & 199. Can the Cobalt not be centered by pushing the mechanism like on a Tortoise? And why does it need to be centered other than to make alignment easier? Also, as I use a Z21 then I think that the use of address 197 to change the direction of operation would be redundant, I can change the direction of operation on the Z21 screen by changing the logic associated with the turnout settings. I understand hat other DCC systems may not allow this. Did I miss anything or make any bad assumptions here? Thanks, John P
  2. If you check their website you can see the pre-production samples of the KFA's. The news was definately posted on the NGF and I thought on here as well. Regards, John P
  3. I know this is a bit late but If this is the N Gauge version then it isn't a Kadee. It's a Dapol Easishunt coupling. Regards, Jhn
  4. It looks like you are using live frog points (Electrofrog if Peco). This means that the points themselves are causing the short circuits not your wiring. You need to add more rail breaks or have less track feeds. BTW Feed number 1 is the ONLY properly isolated feed on the whole diagram. BTW if you need more help you need to let us know what kind of points you are using. Regards, John P
  5. Hi, I'm a bit confused here. Do you mean that you've put an ESU decoder in your Dapol 68? Or that you've put some other decoder in it? Or that it came with a decoder fitted? In any case the default address would be 3, did you reprogram this address? Again regardless of the address setting, you must know what it is if you are able to drive the loco with your DCC controller. Finally setting the address back to 3, will NOT do a factory reset, and as John C says you need to use your DCC controller to program CV 8 to perform a factory reset. Oh BTW, a personal bugbear, is it a OO or N CL68? Regards, John P
  6. Wago 221-412, 221-413, 221-415, 2,3 & 5 way connectors, 24 AWG up to 12 AWG. They also do high power versions and versions for thicker wire. I use the ones above all over my DCC layout. Regards, John P
  7. That's up to you. In my yard I put droppers on each length of flex track and wired to the bus from there, but soldering the rail joiners and having a single dropper will probably work just as well. The BIG question is how BIG is the fiddle yard? (See what I did there). The longer the tracks, the more droppers I would use. Regards, John P
  8. I agree about the Wago's. I use them down to 24AWG single strand wire with no issues. They have the added benefit that they can be opened and closed many times, especially useful when looking for that elusive short circuit. John P
  9. At the risk of sounding facetious, to strip the wire you'll need to buy wire strippers for smaller gauge wire, look on Amazon for 20-30 AWG wire strippers. Regards, John P
  10. It looks like that printed sheet originated with Zimo's UK distributor Rail Exclusive, NOT with Zimo Austria. I would give the distributor a call and ask them directly why running on DC is not recommended. Regards, John P
  11. I use Zimo decoders in my N Gauge stock and I have never seen any supplied notes from Zimo other than those detailing the pin out of the connector. I have also been told that modern mechanisms and decoders should have no problems running with a DC power supply. Unless of course DC running has been turned off in CV29. Regards, John P
  12. Anywhere around BOLTon. Or WIGan (is that a body part?) John P
  13. jpendle

    Dapol 142

    I think all this means is that Welsh trains are less popular than Northern ones. I've got one in Northern livery and while it isn't perfect, it's a lot better than anything I could scratch build. I'll buy a second in Northern livery when a second run is done. Regards, John P
  14. BTW I wouldn't touch Hornby DCC controllers with a 10 foot pole, especially in N Gauge, there are many far more capable DCC control systems out there. John P
  15. First of all, if you still have the receipt return the Gaugemaster decoder and buy a Zimo one instead, they do both 6 pin and Next18 decoders for 20 quid with motor control that can't be beat. As far as the controller goes what everyone said above is right. Choose one that suits you, but make sure that is is not too entry level, some of the cheaper systems don't allow upgrades or expansion and these should probably be avoided. Also right now, the new Lenz LV200 system seems to have a lot of issues that need to be addressed. Regards, John P
  16. Also what if Revolution compromised, and then Dapol made some colour changes. I would think that the best plan for any manufacturer would be to strive to get the most accurate colours possible. John P
  17. Hi, I don't know the full answer but the decoder isn't necessarily using Swiss Mapping. It could also be using Zimo extended mapping. Also it is probably using CV127 to make FO1 directional, if the last 2 bits of CV127 are set to something other than 00 then FO1 is NOT bidirectional. Also I know nothing about the model but is it possible that FO1 has been assigned to the exterior lights in the project do give independent control of the front and rear lights? Regards, John P
  18. With decent connectors there shouldn't be much voltage drop, if you are concerned then just double up the number of connector pins used to cross the baseboard joins, this will halve the voltage drop. BTW I use Wago Levernuts on my N Gauge DCC layout, they look to be around 25p a time in the UK and come in 2, 3, or 5 way versions, they are mains rated so should be able to cope with DCC. The beauty of them is that you only need a pair of wire strippers to use them, and they and the wire in them can be connected and disconnected multiple times. The 3 and 5 way versions are especially suited to DCC bus wiring. Regards, John P
  19. Unfortunately here in the US people seem to regard railroads as public rights of way, there's a lady at work who has a graduation shot of her daughter sprawled across the tracks, not in a Dastardley and Mutley way, I hasten to add. You see schoolchildren walking down the tracks all the time, and people dodging around the barriers on those crossings that have them. Regards, John P
  20. Given that the Zimo Next18 Decoder is 20 quid, just how much cheaper is the LAIS one? Also I think the Dapol Imerium is just a badge engineered Lais chip as well. John P
  21. Most Angliziced Italian place names are Percy Bysshe Shelley's fault! And speaking Italian, here in the US a waiter will happily bring a bottle of Kianti (Chianti), but give you blank looks when you order the Brusketta (Bruschetta). Also the reason to pronounce place names correctly is just to avoid confusion. I was sat in Frankfurt Airport waiting for a connection and could't figure out where LH1234 to Mailand was going, Milano, or Milan if you prefer. The Scandinavians do it just to annoy one another I think, Koepenhavn is a rough approximation of the Danish, Shurpenhamm, is an even worse approximation in Swedish, sorry Svensk. John P
  22. Or use solder wick to remove the solder. Which part of the track did you try soldering to? Inside, outside, bottom? Regards, John P
  23. Sorry I can't help with the Digitrax as I don't use them. BUT why spend 20 quid on a Hornby chip when you can get a 6 pin Zimo (MX617N) for the same price? Regards, John P
  24. The IRJ on point D leading to the siding/headshunt isn't right. Locos won't be able to run into that section of track. You only need IRJ's on Electrofrog Vee's if you are feeding power into them. So either remove the IRJ or put a power feed into that headshunt. Regards, John P
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