boxbrownie

All tow hitches (and fixed towing eyes) are tested to a snatch limit, it’s never published of course because that’s not how your supposed to tow. But the manufacturers want the tow rope to break not the rear end of the vehicle, unfortunately it doesn’t stop the brain dead from having a go! And of course stating the obvious all genuine tow ropes are designed with a material that has some “give” in it, else it would fail every time! Safest way to tow is the rigid tow link, there is no snatch as there is no play.

I thought it had a wobble but I believe it might be when the grub screw is tightened on the axle it off centres the worm gear vertically (as the grub screw isn’t in the centre of the worm) a result of too tolerance between axle and worm, and there’s not much you can do about it. I have in the past used locktite instead of the grub screw but you risk then of having the worm centric ally off centre.

You’re not thick, you’re learning.

Not so sure it needs clearance, it sounds loose to me (bearings at least) and if the gears were bought as a set with the gearbox they should be machine matched, I’ve never been able to get a gearbox to quieten by that method, often “jiggling” of the bearings and alignment is the key.

The gearbox/bearings look “loose” I think under load your hearing the chattering of the clearances is my impression. Whats the issue with sending a paper order form by post, if your lucky they might be able to send the box in a jiffy envelope and through normal post 😉

I think it was a normal bit of (possibly) nylon type rope, maybe washing line with eyes on the end, you could see it stretch, which is why manuals always say use a proper tow rope not your grannies washing line 😂 the truck was lucky the end of the rope didn’t snap back onto the back window, would have gone straight through under so much tension, my daughter saw a nasty accident on a farm once where the tow rope broke when trying to recover another tractor stuck in mud, the (genuine heavy duty) tow broke and very nearly decapitated the driver, it was touch and go for a few days it de-gloved his neck and back of his head, and he was inside a modern cab!

They may not be aimed at your particular market segment if your making your own point work from scratch 😄

https://www.mscmodels.co.uk/ https://abcgears.co.uk/index.html Just a couple I have used.

That sounds absolutely awful and wrong. Buy a better gearbox, there is nothing intrinsically wrong with fold up gearboxes, they’ve been used from day one but they rely on the skill of the builder, the better solid brass section boxes are so much better and almost always perfect from day one, yes more expensive but also almost silent.

The stupid bit is those drivers don’t know how to wade, we tested the Transit (van not Connect*) to 600mm as standard, that’s not in the book BTW, that was the Company test regime. *The Connect was 400mm and the little “elephant” spout on the air cleaner we developed after a few weeks testing for the Indian market (but not in India, at Millbrook), which was deployed for RoW soon after, I thank you 😁 Even a Mondeo can be made into a submarine…..

No, they look to be using a hinge, difficult to see the actual blade type though, but TBH the point does actually look pretty good, especially considering the opposition.

Just consider as we are talking about “the train set market” something like Kato N gauge Uni track which is ready ballasted and probably the easiest and most robust (considering it’s N gauge) snap together track available, the actual running rail visible is effectively code 49…….the rest is embedded within the bedding/sleepers just like PECO track. Us being able to make the track look better by judicious modelling is no justification for manufacturers to take the easy route. Anyhoo, I’m not going to argue, it’s just my view….you have yours, that’s fine. 👍

We all can, it’s cheaper as it’s straight (more or less) off the Tillig moulds, don’t kid yourself Hornby did this out of altruism for little hands to assemble the track easier 😁

I didn’t say it was, but wouldn’t it have been much better had Hornby recognised that they could have taken a better route and made their set-track look much more to “scale”, after all SK was the chap making the statement about the track now being true to scale.

Parcels....OK you're going to have to help me here 😉 But on a serious note after thinking about the 55 vs 80 track thingy.......Hornby made such a point of the fact the gauge is correct for scale and then they use 80 code rail which is way over scale in height, the PECO will look far better. I know Hornby are using basically Tillig tooling/manufacturing (but looks modified for the points) which means 80 code, but it would have been a smart if expensive move to use the same method as PECO and have better looking track, after all we have moaned for years about our OO track being too narrow and using all sorts of methods/tricks to make it less noticeable. I assume Hornby might have had some issues with PECO had they developed a track that was "too similar" in engineering, thinking about it as I type this. Anyway at least we do have the PECO version for those who want at last a better looking scale track.

No bloomin’ chance matey…..not a scooby.

Guilty as charged M’lud, now about that fluff……

Exactly, PECO have done the same as their N gauge track, it improves the look of the visible rail immeasurably and gives greater strength, what’s not to like? The PECO track is modellers track the Hornby track is Train Set track.

Are you thinking Sam’s layout? 😁

So does the Torpoint Ferry, but only on one side of the deck……I did see a van ignore the boarding directions given by staff once, ships are substantially more solid than a Vivaro Van 🤣

If KR Models had spares of the con rods possible soldering/gluing another over would make a double thickness rod.

Not down here, there are only 25 ANPR on ours (that’s the whole of Cornwall) and then there is only one on each of the twenty five roads, and absolutely none on the roads we regularly travel on. Roll on road pricing then. 😄

The ones that be disconnected/taken out with phantom power between journeys, it’s a popular illegal “modification”. 🤫

What about the not so modern cars? Mine has connected capability but I can also delete the option, that would be fun.

I know, so can I, but that doesn’t mean it’s not on the statute books for the future. The only easy way for road pricing would be at each MoT the mileage must be recorded and logged, that’s fine but for the first three years, hmm.