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RedgateModels

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Everything posted by RedgateModels

  1. Nowt so funny as folk. One word of caution, make sure you wrap it really well and send it Special Delivery - you don't want him claiming his money back for "non delivery" or "Damaged" Having had a quick look at your sale Brian, looks like you had two snipe bids at the end of the auction and they REALLY wanted it. Makes you wonder what the max bid the winner actually put in
  2. Is that the same 8F who's brakes I examined at Wycrail?, nice loco anyway and smashing pic as always Chris, your tall weeds by the coal pile are still way better than my efforts
  3. Just been doing some calculations and it looks like the track gauge is wrong, I make it 3.175mm at 1:450th scale - maybe there should be a PT society Why am I still tempted with the DP1 kit, mayne also why I'm currently looking at an Optivisor on Amazon? Great news about the HST though, looks pretty good to me from the pics. The adjustable wagon/carriage chassis look ideal for scratchbuilding some coaches for DP1 too!
  4. Rule books done, now what about that hundred Track Safety handbooks that have just landed on my desk!

  5. is prinitng a small forest's worth of paper today - rule book updates for all staff - zzzzzzzzzz............

  6. won't be possting too much today - in too foul a mood to be responsible in my answers to foolish questions .......

    1. ian

      ian

      Go on, you know you want to....

    2. RedgateModels

      RedgateModels

      I'll leave it to Andy and the Mods, don't want to end up outside the Head's door .....

  7. will be tiling again in the kitchen this weekend, when will it end!

  8. Those of you who saw my question in the Kitbuilding/Scratchbuilding section will know already that I wanted some plastic brake shoes etc as they are VERY close to the wheels and didn't want to risk short circuits upsetting the Loksound decoder. I've since secured an 8F chassis bottom from East Kent Models with a view to using the plastic brake shoes for the 2-8-2. Well, first I drilled some 0.5mm holes in the top of the hangers to take some 0.45mm wires threaded through the frames then clipped them off the chassis bottom and cleaned up the bit where they joined on. Here's the result The weathered finish will be removed with a little Superstrip. Next step is the pull rod and bottom cross members - I'll use the old Kemilway etches that also contained the metal brakes that I've now discounted. I've also got the 8F small parts pack which contains the vac cylinder etc so I might try to use that somehow. I do want to secure the pull rod to the frames to lock the brakes in place UPDATE: Here's the pull rod assembly in place Kemilway etches soldered to 0.8mm dia wire - note 90 deg bend just after the drive gear allowing the rod to fit into a hole drilled in the spacer. The rod just clears the drive gear (with a slight joggle downwards!) ends of the etches will be trimmed once the blocks are finally fitted to the chassis (after painting) That'll do
  9. Hi Julia, if you can adopt one of the arrangements that don't need more than 4 functions try the TCS-M4 http://www.bromsgrovemodels.co.uk/TCSDecodersM2.htm. It's a lot thinner than the MC series as there's no harness plug and it's a bit smaller as well.
  10. Ah, but that's the whole point, the brakes are easily removeable, so that the wheels come off ready for a quick waft of Satin black spray paint
  11. I keep banging on about this as it's a pain to me, but most ppl accessing RMweb from work have problems as many corporate systems block access to photo hosting sites (mean spirited I know!). Andy Y has stated that he would prefer images intended for RMweb to be posted to the forum rather than via a 3rd party hosting company. Don't worry, it was a light hearted comment really, I'll have a look tonight on my own Virgin Media account when I can do what I want
  12. Arrgh, another one where I can't see the pics 'cos they arnt hosted on the forum - difficult to judge this one then .....
  13. Hi Missy, I agree with Will, you will need all 6 function outputs to get the effectively 3 pairs of forward and reverse lights, that doesn't leave anythinf spare for the interior lighting Could you not compromise and have [A] and on at the same time? then it would be easy ..... White wire - [A]+ #1 end - CVs as standard on F0 Yellow wire - [A]+ #2 end - CVs as standard on F0 Green wire - [C] #1 end reverse - CV51 value = 16, CV35 = 2, mapped to F0 Purple Wire - [C] #2 end reverse - CV52 value = 0, CV36 = 1, mapped to F0 Brown wire - interior lighting - CV39 maps it to F1 By the way, there's a layout in this month's Hornby Mag that has an O gauge "Elvis", might be useful for detailing shots?
  14. cutting up a Hornby 8F chassis bottom tonight, just for the brake blocks!

  15. grandad

    1. DonB

      DonB

      I'd say congrats, but do't suppose you had much input into the procedings!

      Your input (financial and otherwise) starts now!

  16. Cheers Chris, you too! - I guess that's the power of the forum, if I take a pic as I'm doing a task and post it here, when the question comes up in the future it's a 2 min job to link to my blog B)
  17. I'd do the loo too, especially if the roof will be removable, this build is going to be something to show off for years B)
  18. Really fantastic work Julia, great to meet up at Wycrail and get my hands on this lovely bit of work, I'm sure a TCS-Z2 will fit in, you only get the forward and reverse lighting with that one though (yellow and white wires) if yuo can fit a TCS-M3 or even 4 in you will have an extra lighting function (or two!) http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Products/Decoders/HO-Scale/M-Series/M-Series.htm
  19. maybe, depends if I get going over winter with my O gauge plans (whatever they are!)
  20. It will be ex-works as it happens, the works plates will say "Built 2010 Mansfield"
  21. Thanks for that Dave, of course I can do what I like on this build I'll see what it looks like in all black and take it from there.
  22. The detailing is getting a bit silly now, I need to sit quietly in a darkened room, or just get on with the kitchen! Trouble is, now I know how the sandboxes are arranged on a Brit and the with daylight visible between the boiler and frames on the 2-8-2, the absence of sandboxes and filler tubes would just bug me. So, I got busy with some plasticard, EMA Plastic Weld and a scalpel. There's still some cleaning up to do and the tops of the tubes need trimming to ensire that they just touch the underside of the footplate. It's all bonded to the boiler lower, so the boxes slip between the frames and are only attached to the tubes. Now the position of the filler tubes is set, I can get on with making the filler caps etc to go on top of the footplate. Boxes will be painted red (as will the inside of the frames) so they should be visible. EDIT: filler caps etc in place now, here's a quick snap of one of them Squares of plasticard with 1.25mm copper wire glued into holes in the centre, tops filed flat.
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