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Kylestrome

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    PaternosterRow

    Posted · Edited by Kylestrome

    Any 'yellowing' in your photos is caused by the colour temperature of the lights and will occur regardless of f-stop. If you are using normal household tungsten, or LED equivalents, they usually give off 'warm' light of about 2700-3000 Kelvin (K). So-called daylight lamps will have a colour temperature of approx. 6500K and, as the name suggests, give off a much bluer light similar to a sunny day outside.

     

    Most digital cameras have  an adjustable white balance function which gives you a true white under most types of lighting. I'd be surprised if your camera doesn't have one tucked away in the operating menu somewhere.

     

    David

    • Agree 1
    • Informative/Useful 1
    bcnPete

    Posted · Edited by Kylestrome

    That looks really good, Pete.

     

    Here's a question though: did BR brake vans ever actually have those arched rain strips? In all of the photos I've seen, where one can clearly make them out, they are straight and either slope down towards the middle or the ends. I would certainly claim that straight ones were the most common form. Maybe the Airfix kit is to blame for so many models having curved rain strips?

     

    David

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    • Thanks 1
    D869

    Posted

    That's working really well.

     

    The tank wagon could do with a little bit of built-in friction to stop it lurching forwards. Assuming there is some weight in it, you could try a very lightly sprung wire rubbing against one axle. Alternatively, you can cut a couple of turns from an N gauge coupling spring and put it over the pinpoint of one axle (an idea cribbed from Micro Trains). Either way, I've been doing similar things on Chapel Wharf since the early days, and the end effect is to make wagons move as if they really do weigh a few tons.

     

    David

    bcnPete

    Posted

    That looks like a good start, Pete.

    If I may make a suggestion or two? I would 'lose' the big single tree at the extreme right, and keep the trees on the extreme left as low as the ones in the middle. Of course, only you can judge what looks good in 3D, but the two things I've mentioned tend to make the backscene look too 'close' at the ends.

     

    David

    bcnPete

    Posted

    Taking on too many projects seems to be a common failing so it's always a good idea to 'rationalise' a bit to ensure that something actually gets completed.

     

    Don't be trapped into the myth that you won't need a "jewellers headset" when modelling 7mm scale. You'll just be putting in many more – and much smaller – details! 

     

    David

    Yan

    Posted

    It's nice to see the layout nearing completion, having followed your progress on your original blog.

     

    I can thoroughly recommend Dingham couplings. I use them as auto couplers and uncouple them manually but you can, of course, operate them with electromagnets as intended. They are also very easy to fit, just like fitting 3-link hooks.

     

    David

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