micklner

Indeed the LNER bleached the Teak with Oxalic Acid prior to revarnishing . Basically anything from Pale Orange to Chocolate Brown existed depending on how old the coach was at any particular time.

By coincidence I have had some MJT sides arrive today for a Hornby LNER Coach conversion in due course, as per Coachmans excellent blog/thread

Brown Jack finshed

Another A3 build of the poorest of the NRM bodies I have picked up. Large amount of detail parts to be made as none are available from Hornby. This will be combined with a Mallard Non Corridor Tender converted with added beading and streamlined section removed.

Last is a re numbering of one of the latest Bachmann LNER Wagons a nice wagon.

From experience dump the motor/gears and use a Mashima and High Level box. The missing backhead maybe K's way of releasing heat from the dire motor before it goes pop

A Corgi Trackside Scammel. Repainted into a better Blue (lighter than pictures) than the lurid Mauve Colour it came in. Trailer converted into a flat bed, winscreen added and decalled using Fox transfers

I will let you know re chimneys (they may be need for other Locos) . The last two conversions I have made ( see earlier posts ) had to be cut off

I am pleased to write that the Silver Jubilee Set is at long last finished , I have been building the set on and off for over a year and will be glad to move onto to other quicker projects

Complete Set behind Silver Fox

Speaking of Silver Fox this is a damaged Quicksilver which I bought with a missing front bufferbeam. I had a replacement part from a old Falcon body which was a easy fix. As I have a Quicksilver already this one was changed to Silver Fox using Fox Transfers and Modelmasters Etched Foxes and the Boilerbands painted in Silver

Next project will be to change these ebay obtained wrecks into A3 Brown Jack. Between the two bodies in the picture I can obtain one good body . I have a spare A4 chassis which I will re wheel etc with parts from East Kent Models. I have a Corridor Tender again via ebay for it to pull in due course. Whoever tried to glue the smoke defectors back on never heard of using a small amount of glue Any suggestions on the best way of removing the glue most welcome. The only method I can think of is wet and dry paper ??

Jeremy,

"Remember that what you see in an in service loco is the boiler cladding, the holes in which may not actually be the same shape as the ones in the actual boiler!"

Exactly - and what you see is always circular. Compare Bob's picture of the real BP linked in his 23 December posting

http://andrewstransp.../p47887579.html

with his picture of the model BP in his 24 December posting. The circularity of the cladding holes is most clearly shown in locos in LNE livery where the hole is white-lined. See

http://www.docbrown....ds/mspage22.htm

about a third of the way down for the best view.

Alan

With regard to the Cab saga.

Looking at the photos linked above , the Black and White photo shows the Loco footplate/steps higher then the tender plate/ steps. The Barrow photos show the exact oppositte the Cab area is now lower than the Tender.

Perhaps this explains why Bachmann version has the A2 modelled with lower steps etc.

There is something bizarre about Blue Peter I have seen today. The most noticable of the "gaps" is the one between the Cab "V" edge and the Boiler . The one example I have seen today had a gap of between 1 and 2 mm between the parts.

As the latest version has a different Boiler Moulding to the Apple Green version perhaps this is the problem , or the one I have seen is a one off fault ? The Apple Green versions dont appear to have the obvious gaps on the few I have seen. The "gaps" correspond with the wrong angle of the Cab and Footplate if it is possible to straighten the rear of the footplate hopefully that would remove the "gaps" at the same time .

I have had another look at the excellent pictures posted on the previous page and there is no obvious gap between the Cab and Boiler at the "V" on those Locos. They do however have the "slight gap" between firebox and footplate in front of the footplate curve. Imagine this closed up and the Cab Body will lift at the same time to the rear.

The BR livery sadly doesnt help as the Orange Lining on the footplate/cab also exagerates the look of Cab droop problem .

cheers

Just seen a Blue Peter in my local Modelzone the build quality is diabolical. Large gaps between Cab , Boiler and Footplateand a very low cab at the rear.

The gap between footplate and boiler if built correctly would actually make the Cab straight. A Apple Green version also on display had a slight rear drop and no gaps on the bodywork.

Is Blue Peter a very expensive rush job ??

It would appear Rails of Sheffield have struck Gold again . If they are fetching these prices very tempting to sell some of mine on !!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Hornby-R4170A-LNER-61ft-6in-TEAK-CORRIDOR-BRAKE-COACH-/190480947386?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item2c598c98ba

ditto +++++++++ have a good un

It maybe the pictures ??

The cab area still leans to the left ,this maybe exagerated by the lining around the numbers and on the footplate under the cab . The nameplate appears crooked . Lastly there appears to be gaps where the firebox meets the footplate and the cab area ??

On the chassis the slidebar for the piston rod goes upto the left

Hopefully wrong on all counts . Otherwise looks very nice

Re The Coronation Twin very nice. I built the Tourist Set and if he builds you more he must be mad or something !! The window painting drives you nuts !! perhaps thats why he is building more

I presume the A4 is one of those new "cheap" ones ? what does it run like and does it go around curves (dimensions) ???

Having read the comments from Simon Kohler in MRE he appears to be asking how many people have had problems with the front pony truck derailing. My one doesnt have this problem.

It is still however derailing the rear bogie . Back to back was tight and has been moved out to the correct width. It only does it in reverse when the set nearest the drivers lifts on curves and jumps off the rail. I have cured 99% of the problem by adding a small spring and a washer to the bogie locating post (this was also loose and I have glued the post tight.). The bogie is now staying on the tracks but I now am getting slight wheelspin on some points of the tracks which are not perfectly flat. This will be cured by removing small pieces of spring until the chassis is laying correctly on the rails.

Overall the Loco is superb and recomended.:D

EDIT

Washer has now been filed thinner which has allowed more flex in the spring . Loco now is now 100% no slipping etc.

Just bought a secondhand LNER version for a nice price , for a bit of variation mine had a derailing rear bogie . Simple cure of moving wheels out to correct spacing.

Front bogie is staying on but looks awful sawing backwards and forwards . Will have a look at modifying as above post.

On the plus point what a superb looker !!

Looking good , is their any reason for hand lettering ?

I have added a Alexander chassis to my Geo Norton G5 and I finally have a G5 that works !!! It needed some minor cutting to fit otherwise a dead easy build in OO. I used to have a Nu cast version as well that never worked either !!

Rails are doing Tudor Minstrel for £84.50 for ONE day only . Subscribe to their newsletter for details

You will also need to paint the Buffers Black and move the Shed allocation to the bottom of the buffer beam and use smaller Class Lettering (HMRS) at least there are some good photos in this condition !! :blink::blink::lol:

Silver Jubilee Set ready for lining

Bachmann Tank wagons weathered two centre wagons have been relettered using Robbie Burns Decals

Mick

Have you primed the kit before painting. Resin needs to be cleaned before priming to ensure good paint adhesion. Resin moulding uses a release agentwhcih can cause "fish eye" effect is not cleaned correctly. I use Jif and Washing up liquid others use turps .

Same question/comment again .

If you paint the model as shown it will look like it is pebbledashed. The model must be perfectly clean . I would clean the paint off with Nitromors paint stripper or similar. Resin is quite tolerant of paint stripper used carefully.

If you spray a light coat of primer it will show all the imperfections. Fill these with Green Putty or similar re prime and then add a top coat colour preferably sprayed. Halfords do many colours there maybe a Green for your loco . 100 times better finish than brush painting.

Re Clack Valves. Brassmasters do nice Brass turnings for the main part

The seam runs directly above the sandbox fillers and can be seen above them in the photos especailly to the left side of the boiler ( pic 2 above ) . Sadly the seam is very obvious on the models I have seen. It would be a nightmare to remove.

I cannot understand why it has been made that way either. If the other versions have different domes/ regulator rodding why put a seam there ?? lastly why make it pronouced as well ?

Bizarre:blink:

P.S Lovely loco well done

Not only that, but only One of those cars was part of the Belle, the other Two named cars never were and the Belle was a 5 car formation not 3. Chancer springs to mind on this one.

At £41 he hasnt done bad :blink::blink:

Have you primed the kit before painting. Resin needs to be cleaned before priming to ensure good paint adhesion. Resin moulding uses a release agentwhcih can cause "fish eye" effect is not cleaned correctly. I use Jif and Washing up liquid others use turps .

Precision Doncaster Apple Green and Garter Blue for the 3rd Class. I had them in stock and thats near enough for me By the time curtains are added to the windows they will be almost invisible. !!

cheers

Sounds good , however that will not get the Tender and Cartazzi Truck steps to then be inline ?? they are out of line on both the A1 and A2.

I have seen a picture of the new A2 and Hornby's L1 front to front and the front buffers on both are dead inline. This therefore suggests to me the tender is the culprit. I wonder if the tender buffers line up with other stock or are higher?. I dont own a A1 or A2 (wrong period for me) so cannot check.