jonas

Could transfers do the job do you think? 50s are looking superb! (Sorry)

How about this chap? http://www.modelu3d.co.uk/product/1105/

ModelU all the way, fantastic quality. This one is obviously too modern for your 71 but Alan has a series of BR and sectorisation era drivers, I'm sure you'll find something suitable there.

I'd rather chuck my £99 toward a sound chip from an aftermarket supplier. I hate the term 'rivet counter' anyway, but in this instance the errors are completely avoidable. Why make it wrong when you own the correct tooling? Why retool the noses to fit those god awful lights? The Railroad range is a nonsense. just because it's aimed at younger modellers or those on a budget doesn't mean they should be excused for releasing any old tat.

Could you try some different sized brass tube 'layered' to make a new exhaust? It looks like a piece of rod with three sections of tube added as a sleeve...if that makes any sense at all!

There certainly plenty of diesel modellers who have been directly inspired by that, Holland Park and now this lovely layout! I know I have been.

It's good to have you back!

Thanks for taking the time to post a step by step James! Great work as usual.

My latest 00 gauge locomotive in progress, hopefully representing the bog standard, hard working and nondescript EWS shed as seen all across the country. Waiting on buckeyes from Precision Labels and the next release of drivers from ModelU to populate the cab, and eventually a Legomanbiffo sound chip.

I suspect the SLW Class 24 has killed development of that so resources are being used elsewhere.

I think I'd use a white undercoat for anything that bright - especially yellow which is evil to paint at the best of times!

That should be on the 'when real things look like a model' thread!

It's been a while since I posted any 00 gauge content! But this picture hopefully shows the improvement in adding a ModelU 3D printed driver in place of the standard Bachmann humanoid thing. Streets ahead in my opinion!

Latest victim to receive the weathering brush is this Farish Class 31. Renumbered Using Railtec transfers and weathered using my usual enamel washes and powders. Any more dirt on this and it would look overdone, I think this is as far as I can go in n gauge without it looking daft!

Hi Alan, Here's one of your drivers hitching a lift on a Sentinel whilst waiting for his ride to turn up. He's enjoying a spot of freedom whilst knowing he'll spend he rest of his model life encased in a Bachmann 66! Great prints and great service as ever. Steve

A 'like' doesn't do that justice! Brilliant work Cav, such consistent high standards across the scene.

There is always something interesting in this thread, and I don't comment often enough! Great work.

That's stupendously good! I can't wait to see it in situ.

Thanks for all the ratings and the kind comments! Hi Markus, I'll try to get one for you next time the stock box is out. But it's basically just a case of removing the white painted sections. It means the contact board sits lower in the metal chassis. Hi Pete, your work is awesome! I think there are a few methods to do this - I just picked what I thought was easiest after a disasterous attempt to move the bogie frames up a la Mercig. I know Farish have to cater for tight corners but can't help but feel the 37 is excessively high..it's not an issue I have with my Western or 24? Glad it helped Adam! I look forward to seeing your completed model. These are weathered broadly the same as most of my stock - a mix of humbrol enamel black, dark brown and a touch of weathering powder mixed with thinner so it's about the consistency of milk. The whole model is covered, left for about ten minutes then carefully removed using a flat brush or cotton bud touched into thinners. Try and mimic the direction of real weathering, i.e. Tip to bottom of locos sides.Once you are happy give it a good blast of flat, matt varnish to kill any shine. Touch in he details and add powders to tastes. It's not very scientific but then weathering rarely is, Inhave found the more I do the more I get my eye in...so get slapping some paint around!

Hi Adam, thanks for your kind comment. I have posted a step by step in a new blog post - I hope it helps! Good luck!

I have been asked how I lower my Farish 37s; I hope this helps explain it. Descriptions are in each photos caption. It's not that hard to do but worth it in my opinion. I've never had any issues with running but I don't use settrack curves, and obviously anyone following this does so at their own risk! Comparison between modified and unmodified Farish Class 37s. I also painted the visible brass bits of the pickup strips black whilst the loco is disassembled. Body off and cab interiors removed - these just pull out. If anyone needs any I have about 12 in my bits box now! The contact board slides up and out of the chassis: careful not to break any solder joints. I have painted 2 white dots onto mine above - file this away. It's about 2mm, about half way up the brass circles under the lighting contacts. You're basically extending the cut out. It's important that both sides (and ends) have the same amount filed so the body sits level. They then just slot back in. Chop the lugs off the battery box; this will no longer clip onto the bottom of the chassis block. I fix mine back on the chassis with blue tack, but you could use double sided tape if you prefer. Reassembled, it'll look something like this! I hope this helps anyone looking to do a similar mod.

My 2 latest models. 37514 in Metals and 37239 in Coal sector liveries. Lowered on bogies, detail fitted both ends, NEM pockets removed and weathered. Couple of etched bits on the way for 514, and oval buffers required for 239 but otherwise done!

Hi Simon, Possibly! Although next on the list is a Coal sector machine as seen at Hereford Rail Day 1991 - 37239...

Utterly brilliant. There are a couple of layouts that are really flying the flag for N gauge on here, and this one is at the top of the pile.

My latest tractor. Detail fitted both ends and nem pockets removed, lowered on its bogies to reduce the gap between the body and the bogies. Workstained weathering job on triple grey metal sector livery, just as I remember seeing them as kid rumbling through Hereford. Etched plaques and arrows on order from Fox, so not quite finished, but I couldn't resist sharing!