John Tomlinson

This is a very silly question, but they aren't still in the boxes by any chance? They can be quite well hidden away, so you need to take all the packaging out and check all over. I say this not to be rude, but because a good decade after buying my first Bachmann Thompson coach I found the add-on footboards tucked underneath the plastic moulding in which the coach is held. John.

Worth checking the pony truck wheels as well while you're at it, and that the truck moves freely in both planes. John.

The thing that I always wonder in such cases, is what do people who haven't spent a lifetime messing around with this stuff do? It's not as if they can go back to their local model shop, for most people there isn't one. Send it off in the post I suppose to whence it came, or chuck it away and get another hobby? I've just had a parallel case with a Hornby 31/0 bought off ebay (the non-mazak one). Perfect condition with not a mark on it, in fact I doubt if it's ever been run, place on track and only just moves. Answer, take the top off and see the rubber drive to the fan has slipped from its bearing, rubber is a bit perished anyway, so a snip with the scissors and off it comes. Loco now runs a treat! I don't know what the answer is. My case was secondhand, so my risk I know, but for delicate new stuff all manufacturers can do is have strong QC and somehow advise careful handling. John.

I have an Airfix Scot in Late LMS lined black livery, with tender drive. It hasn't been used much in the near forty years since purchased, but runs rather well when it does. I've fiddled with it a bit, closed the tender/loco gap, added proper couplings and some other bits, so it looks quite nice too. Funny how things turn out, the old stuff can sometimes be a treasure! John.

Like many I never met him, but enjoyed his photographs and had some pleasant and civilised exchanges on here. He was obviously a very determined and courageous man, to find a new way to carry on his modelling interest whereas I suspect for many his problems would have put paid to everything. I will miss his posts, both the photos and his generally charming manner. John.

Interesting what you say about "92 Squadron" in malachite, which I think is one of the early ones. I've found these to be far better in terms of manufacturing quality in the chassis, free-running and so on, although the back-to-backs usually need a tweak. I have a fairly recent "Exeter" which is the other way, screw holes not square, the thing a bit like it was done after a session in the pub! Good idea to buy cheap early ones for spares, like it! John.

I would say your pictures could well be of general public interest. There isn't that much real British steam, not least because of the age you need to be to have done the shots (please don't take that the wrong way)! If you look into Flickr it is free for the first 1000 pictures you upload, so if you have a few scans already done it might be worth a go. Best wishes, John.

Presumably this runs OK? Hornby's "Bunsen" is one of the models identified as having mazak rot in the chassis in some cases - I know this particularly as my neighbour across the road had one! If it is OK now it should be a good one, as they've been out for a while and I'd expect any fault to show after this time. John. P.S. Meant to mention your scans of sixty years old negs on a Brownie seem to have come out rather well, nice and clear!

The look is improved by you extending the cab side lining to its proper height as well. I think your metallic pigment is a good idea, just sets off the more matt black parts nicely. Excellent outcome! John.

That's turned out really well and looks great! I've done a couple of his kits now and been very impressed with the quality of the 3D printing. When this started as a technique the results often looked awful, more like concrete layers, but Isinglass really seem to have it cracked. John.

More interesting progress on Water Orton. I noticed you've kept the Bachmann chassis with "Eire" and wondered if you have a hard and fast criteria for building a new chassis, such as the RTR one is split chassis design, or just broken? I find the new Bachmann and Hornby chassis often to be pretty good, although the models may need a clean and oil, and also some weight. I had the same thought in your last sentence when I started a (much shorter) workbench thread in K&S. Very difficult unless a very prolific modeller to run two, the other in "modifying RTR", and anyway where would you draw the line? Soldering up a Comet chassis and assembling the vale gear is a fair bit more than simple modification, I suspect many on here would regard anything with an iron as beyond them - even though you and I know it really isn't! Best wishes, John.

Looks very good, and amazingly quick progress. I assume you'll add the door handles and grabs after painting? Do you think you'll actually need the compensation feature? John.

The thing that strikes me is there's a brake lever on one side only. Is this right? Once upon a time I built a 4mm Jidenco GC 15t fish van, took forever, that had levers both side but in a way that both were at the same end of the vehicle. This I gather became prohibited some years into the Grouping. Have a great holiday! John.

Like Mick, mine arrived this morning. Looking good and many thanks for all your work to get this to happen! John.

As Jamie says, I shall also follow this with interest. Many thanks. John.

Thanks for this, I will investigate! John.

I assume we're talking Maunsell 60' mainline stock. I switched the Hornby plastic coupling units (the things that slides around under the coach ends) for Bachmann Mk1 ones. I then fitted Kadee 17 or 18's so that the actual couplers sit at buffer level as they should. I don't like great lumps of plastic visible under the coach ends! This works to a point, but is difficult to couple up as the couplings then sit too far back under the coach. It doesn't matter too much for me as I tend to keep my stock in fixed rakes, but it is a pain to do at the start. John.

Well that cheered up my Monday morning!! Staying as "Pinza"? John.

Fantastic result on the Western. I thought your assessment of the previous owner was very mild and restrained indeed, perhaps not quite what you actually thought! The varnish disaster is something I've experienced and it is absolutely soul destroying. In my case I airbrushed some Johnson's Kleer onto a Railmatch enamel fininsh, I don't quite know why it happened but it blotched. On a four car green DMU with two complete lining bands round each vehicle, so lots of very bad thoughts and language. Strangely after trying various approaches I found airbrushing Humbrol Enamel Satincote managed to disappear the blotches, this after three years of feeling cross. This isn't obviously the same Humbrol product responsible for your problem. Our hobby can be very trying, but also enormously satisfying, as when you saw your Western in action in its restored state. Thanks for the video. John.

I have some of the earlier Thompsons as well and they have I think the same arrangement. It seems to be a design issue without remedy as it stands. You could fit SE Finecast flush glazing to improve the looks and circumvent the problem, although I accept the appearance isn't perfect with this product. john.

Pretty sure I have a 92156 that is tender driven and also factory weathered. It convinced me that factory weathering isn't a good thing and I've never bought a model so treated since! Suspect I bought it late 90's, new. No DCC involved. Wonder if yours is a composite of various models that explains the apparent inconsistencies, if so would be pre-owned? John.

Like you I'd been pondering this for a while, and the extra Fathers Day discount tipped it - although I'm not a father! Had to be in original livery, I saw it running in this condition and have some not too special photos thereof as well, now on Flickr see below. Arrived earlier this week and gone into Covid quarantine after external check - looks superb and I can't wait to hear the noise! John.

Sometimes putting thing in a freezer can help to weaken the glue. Be very careful when handling afterwards as the plastic will also be brittle, allow to warm up slowly. John.

Could also be a cunning plan to maximise free publicity for the model concerned! The pricing strategy now seems to be to load up the initial price offer, on the basis that folk are so hyper they'll pay up, then accept retailers will eventually have discount what's left a bit, hopefully not too much, to clear stock. Miserable people like me just wait for stuff to appear cheap on ebay. I suspect some shops have ebay accounts that are apparently unrelated, to help in this process without upsetting customers who've paid full price too much. Whatever makes you happy...! John.

Looks like your answer. Good how people step into the breech. Peters Spares commisioned a replacement item for the Hornby T9 which had not dissimilar mazak related problems, again needed a bit of fettling but did the job perfectly. John.