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Hi all, I little update on this just for those who may be interested , I returned to this part of the railway today to take some more measurements , And to my Great surprise the local council have removed all the ivy that covered the wall, Now that it had gone i could see a lot more, And i could see that bit that stuck out of the wall about half way along it, It did have a cover over it in the original picture,I still do nor know what it was, but i can model it now,, Also my question about the signal box set back in the wall has been answered as you can see, So i am assuming that the roof over hung the wall giving the impression that it was in the wall.

Nice work Ken,Just a quick note on the roof, When you cut it from the fret, Do not cut off the guttering, It looks like you have to remove them on first glance,But the instructions say other wise, I cut mine off then read the instructions.

Its got to be done, The holes look odd, The rear vac pipe on the 72xx is on the wrong side as well, And i have fitted a detail kit from BRASSMASTERS, This kit is a must for your 42xx as well,

Thanks Ian, Yes on reading that it has given me a similar idea, So im off in the shed today , Thankyou

Hi All ,This may have been asked before so apologies if it has, I am in the process of detailing a Hornby 72xx tank loco, And it has just holes in the boiler top, where the washout plugs go, and black or green livery it looks like holes, So has anyone filled these or fitted washout plugs in them, It looks very awkward to get to the inside of the boiler barrel, And this looked like the best way to do it, If anyone has any tips for this i would be very grateful . Thanks Garry

Nice work,What are you using to line it with a bow pen or something else,Only asking as i have some lining to do on mine,and not looking forward to it, Thanks

Agree would be nice to see an update, Im sure he is rebuilding his Garage thou, So we may have to wait,

Very nice, The first pic above is very realistic ,

What will be the next build Please

I am pretty sure that my coal in my Tender on my mogul just popped out, have a look yours must be the same,

So can i ask, If you fitted the motor and box,Then the rear axle would have to come off,so how did you do that with the brake blocks being so close, I ask this as i have done this and my detail was no where as fine as yours and i found if very hard to do, It does not look like you could remove your wheels without bending something, Thanks

Rocket first,i would like to see it finished,

That is what i am thinking,I think it fits the period in plain grey, I just want to hear what others think in case it is wrong

I have a question for you all please,I have been told by a modeler that the hand rails and lamp irons would of been picked out in either black or white, I am not sure that early ones were, I can not find any early photos of pre grouping vans, so what are yours thoughts on this please.

Im Thinking off using Net curtain, Paint pva, onto the roof then put on the Net curtain then it should stick well and look the part i hope, But i will do a Test on something first, Ill let you know how i get on.

A bit more done, only the roof to finish,some ribs under the roof planking and roof canvas,so should be finished next week,

According to wikipedia ,it is approximately 1:11.3., All i know is working to 1inch and 1/16 from a full size drawing is a nightmare,Things like buffer centers and heights do not add up, So like all the other Gauges listed above it is all a compromise,all good fun thou, Do not mention gauge to my wife, as that is my nickname as i have a liking for them, 16mm,g1, 0,00, My next loco is 3 1/2, and ive modeled 7 1/4, The best gauge i have modeled in was 7 1/4 inch gauge ,it was 1 1/2 to the foot and this made working from prototype stuff much more accurate.

G3 is a good size,It is real engineering,and big enough for the correct detail,I am tempted by the G 1 stuff when i go to exhibitions,it gives me the same buzz,And this 5 inch stuff is nice ,and nicer when driving it, But on the down side it is getting heavier as we are getting older

Thanks dajt,Appreciated ,I personally think that modelling in this scale is the only way to go, Just look at all the lost wax castings and the like that are available today,Just shows you that modelers want more realism and thats the way its going, Only down side is TIME, If i want a rake of wagons built to the prototype then im going to have to wait a while,, Your loco is also a very nice build, Can we see some more photos soon,

No Hijack bud,All info id useful to me and others,They look good,I could not find any at the time,So i used the pins, I did see yours after ,(think it was on western thunder) But by then it was too late, They would of been just right looking at them, Nice workmanship,

Hi Spitfire, I could not find any hinges at the time small enough ,So i pinched the idea from my wifes dolls house, They hang the doors with a little pin in the top and bottom,Then i put a little washer on the bottom pin to raise the door,It all works quite well,but i can get away with it as the hinges are not seen on the outside anyway, The door has no handle either,But has a latch bolt and that is also from a dolls house,

Thanks Spitfire, Yea the levers are sanders, Early wagons do look a bit odd, That brake wheel looks odd to me,But i guess they were leaning as it had not been done before, More pictures very shortly as i am hoping to get paint on soon,Then i can put on a lot more bits that i have already finished

Some more pictures of my wagon,I was hoping it would be finished by know,But it is a lot more work than i thought it would be,

I am pretty sure that the 4 rivets you have put on,are on the other side only, I have a works drawing here, and the 4 rivets are to hold the float mechanism that is on the inside,and that is on the left side ( left side as standing on the tender footplate looking back ) The same side as the water indicator is on, The side you have done is all smooth, Hope this is Helpful. Garry