alant

Hi Howard, Yes, but they are made of steel (or something similar) and will become magnetized over time in my experience. Hence the brass (or similar) requirement. Alan.

That's a good question actually! I should have mentioned I searched around and couldn't find any ready made examples so ended up making my own from soft brass wire which I think I bought from Eileens. Mine are not perfect and are slightly bigger than Slaters/Parkside steel ones but look OK and do the job if necessary. They probably won't work too well on long heavy trains though. Alan.

It's possible to retain the 3 link couplings when using the Lincs method. I found though that I had to replace them with brass versions as the steel ones became magnetic after a while and could become tangled with the Lincs operating bar. I use permanent magnets buried in the ballast of my trackwork. The only disadvantage with Lincs is that there is no delayed uncoupling method so magnets have to be placed where you want to uncouple. I have no experience of using outdoors but wouldn't have thought there would be a problem. Alan.

Great stuff, thanks for sharing. Alan.

From a purely selfish perspective, I think you should get on with the J6 ;-) Alan.

Hi Marc, Do you have any problems with hardboard bowing, or do you also add lightweight bracing? Alan.

You may be aware, but it's possible to buy "bendy" mdf which has grooves machined on one side to allow curves to be made. I haven't tried any myself but it looks like it may be suitable for curved backscenes etc. Alan.

Hi Mark, Only just discovered this little gem! You've created some great atmosphere in such a small space. Alan.

I'm old enough to remember "hot metal" as we'll. I moved to the supplier side many years ago, still involved supplying publishing (both print and web) solutions. Apologies for the small high jack Rod. New point work is looking good. Alan.

Cow Gum, I didn't realise it was still available. Happy memories from years ago when working as a paste up artist! Alan.

Hi Chaz, Looking good. Will try to make Warley this year and come and say hello - assuming I feel brave enough to face the usual scrum there! Alan.

Welcome to the gang, there's no going back now!

Red House - Jimi Hendrix

The latest edition of MRJ (221) has an advert for part 2 but no availability date yet. Alan.

Hi Andy, Just be careful with the Plastruct as I recall reading an article some time ago now about someone who used Plastruct for the point rodding and it warped apparently after painting. I think he used enamels paints and seemed to think that may have caused the problem. I can't remember who it was but may have been Martyn Welch when he built Hursley. Alan.

Andy, I found this old thread some time ago now which contains some useful pics etc. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8818 Alan.

Hi Chaz, So there's no chance of you building me several feet of the railings then . . . I'll duck now! Alan.

Looking good Andy. The sound effects certainly add a whole new dimension. Think I'll have to start saving up to go DCC ! Alan.

Hi Chaz, IMO it looks better with the small hut removed especially as you are going to add some general clutter and such like. The shelter for the saw looks very neat! Alan.

Hi Marc, I agree, most track in yards seem to have no obvious "shoulder". On my current layout I glued corrugated cardboard up against the track to bring up the yard level with the tops of the sleepers before adding the top surface detail. All the best. Alan.

Chaz, I found the MRJ article last night whilst looking for something myself - issue 153. Alan.

Hi Chaz, I remember there was an article in an old MRJ sometime back regarding adding litter etc. I think this was for 4mm scale though not 7mm. Alan.

I have found that using the Lincs system you really do need to replace the original 3 links with something other than steel. The steel 3 links do become magnetised after a while and can then become entangled with the Lincs steel coupling. Alan.

Hi guys, hopefully you'll find the wait worthwhile! As Barnaby says the big plus is the relatively easy set up for them. The only thing I found was to ensure I used the correct flux for soldering the steel wire to the brass tube as normal brass flux didn't work too well. Alan.

After being married for 30 plus years I can't remember how my other half was introduced to the world of model railways!