kandc_au

Not sure if relevent but there is another thread I was reading recently where they talk about removing a resistor which gives the thing more grunt power wise. Someone else will have to direct you though as I am hopeless tryin g to find things I have read! Khris

Coach, Your heart really seems to be in this layout. Outwardly, you don't appear to be fighting yourself with the layout! Just looks and sounds great! Khris

Put a piece of icypole stick either side on the outsides so that they won't get squashed. Khris

No holding you back now!

Yeah!! (Y)

You have but it is a Tiff file and NOT inline in the message. Khris BTW it is a beach scene!

If I am correct I think the C&L one. (RHS top pic) I like the spacing and sleeper width. Khris

I fear no matter what manufacturers do they will always get things wrong for a lot of reasons. Time and the changes over the time the vehicle/loco was in service and just human error. Things are pointed out, and you then have to decide do you still want to buy or not! That is about the only question here! Khris

I don't see it as complaining about the Youtube clip, but rather bringing to attention for those who do read these threads, that not all reviews are balanced or thought out! Much like some responses we get here in some threads. You drink in all the information and discard what doesn't appear to be backed up. khris

Ian, I could stand corrected but I think that they are used a lot in N gauge, and Dave Jones seemed to think they were the future as far as he was concerned for OO. Khris

PM'd you.

I can tell you they are NOT a black hole, if that helps. Give them a few days they may have been at an exhibition....I do not know. Khris

John, Once you sent a basic pic of what you meant about the hinge, I followed what you were talking about. I have done my DS with just the 2 tiebars (1 each end) I have used steel track pins that I filed the paint off of so that they could be soldered rather than brass pins as I was worried the brass wouldn't be long lasting in the longer term. I also use Copperclad for the tiebars. (Using copperclad you need to remember to cut the copper on the underneath as well you obviously realise how I know that ) To space the gap of the blades I do 1 pair and then the other using the same thickness item (offcut of copperclad 1.06) as the spacer. So what you have is one blade against the rail and the other corresponding blade has the spacer of copperclad. I then use another piece of copperclad as the second space required for the other side. Hope this all makes sense! Given I am a electrical heathen, up until now I have used slide switches. This time around I will be trying a method of leavers from a central point and rods and cranks as I saw used on Youtube. The guy also used micro switches to control the power to the track. hope this is of help. Khris

Larry, I know you are using DCC sound. Is the layout actually wired for DCC? I had the feeling it wasn't but not sure. Khris

Are there any diagrams online showing this method please? Khris

Tried 12 months of one of the mags electronically...I think BRM and had a couple of attempts of another and that was enough for me! I get the mags I can hold in my hand. More expense ...yes, but I dropped off the Hornby Mag and still get Railway modeller....the Newsagent gets both the surface one and the airmail one, I get the airmail one about 1-2 weeks after it is released in the Uk for an extra 3 dollars more. BRM and Model rail still only come surface so I have to wait while everyone has finished discussing the items I finally get to see them. That way there is No hassles downloading them and have them on hand as and when I need them. Khris

This is a response : Wizard Models sell rolls of 0.4mm Nickel Silver square section for point rodding if you want something even smaller. on this thread from 2011: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/48450-supply-of-05x05mm-square-brass-rod/ Hope it is of use. Khris

Bloody hell Lofty, If it was mine I wouldn't be complaining. Certainly looks quite smart. Those who do kitbash, will appreciate the amount of work involved to get it to this stage :ESPECIALLY" given it is made from leftovers of other projects. Khris

David, If you have a copy of Oxford and Princes Risborough A GWR secondary route....have a look at image on P175 It "appears" that there is not a second siding there. P41 of princess Risborough-Thame-Oxford Railway clearly shows the points are in the bricked crossing area! So one would thin k that you could see it in the first book I mentioned. Maps NLS site shows 2 sidings from about 1921. There is another pic I am positive I have seen showing a single siding but cannot remember where I saw the image, at the moment. Will have another look tomorrow. Khris

Thanks David. I didn't realise it was so early on. I had the feeling it was after 1940. Either way now it works out well for me. Khris

Anyone know when the siding in the goods yard, (the went off at near right angles to the station) had the second siding added? Khris

Rather looks the bees knees to me. Khris

Yes. Now that I have seen that side it sort of makes sense Now it appears to be just an unusual shaped house. Khris

Tony, What is that building on the right with the long sloping roof? Khris

That was going to be my first thought as well. Seems the most obvious if all was OK before! Khris