"Diesels in the Duchy" - AKA St Blazey - DCC EM

[BlackRat]

Excellent phots!

 

Was thinking tho, to make the layout 'complete' you will need a jam sandwich about somewhere.

 

Well really it should be a Range Rover or a Mondeo 2.5 sport with battenburg livery.

 

The final detail will be a black rat (or two) having tea in the box or trundling around on an 08!

 

Them were the days!!!!!

 

Really looking forward to seeing the layout in the flesh!

[Ramblin Rich]

Nice work as ever Chris.

I understand theYork Model Makers windows are laser cut - are they also of plastic construction?

[2ManySpams]

Nice work as ever Chris.

I understand theYork Model Makers windows are laser cut - are they also of plastic construction?

 

The ones i have are cut from Rowmark (see below). Yup they can be painted and glued just like the plastic brickwork, although the use of a stronger solvent such as plasweld rather than Mek Pak. Their website is here. On their frequently asked questions doc they give the following info on materials and glues:

 

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

We hope that the information below will answer most of your queries for both our standard range of components and bespoke laser cutting service, however if not please contact us at laser@yorkmodelmaking.com

 

For ease of use the information has been split into the following categories: Materials, Standard Components, Drawings for Bespoke Work, Cost of Bespoke Work, Payment and Timing.

 

 

MATERIALS

Which materials can be laser cut ?

 

Rowmark – this is an off white plastic material, similar to “plasticard†but tougher and comes in 0.75, 1.00 and 1.50 mm. This is the material we use for our standard range of windows and canopy valances. It is ideal for fine detail due to its strength, but is a little hard for cutting with a craft knife. By request we can also obtain this material in black.

 

Acrylic – we stock clear cast acrylic in 0.50, 0.75, 1.00, 1.50, 2.00mm. We usually also have 2.00mm white in stock. The thinner material is perfect for glazing but not ideal for fine detailed work where strength is important as it is quite brittle. We can get thicknesses up to 10mm if you require.

 

MDF – just like you buy from your local DIY store, but in 2.00mm and 3.00mm thicknesses. Perfect for the construction of larger components. When cut the edges have a dark colourisation.

 

Ply-wood – available in approx. 1.50mm thickness (being a natural material it can vary in thickness slightly) When cut the edges have a dark colourisation.

 

Veneer – We usually have in stock Oak, Cherry, and Sapelli (a dark hardwood) The veneer is approximately 0.5mm thick and has a paper backing which gives it strength, making it easy to handle and very flexible along the grain. When cut the edges can have a dark colourisation.

 

Mylar - This plastic sheet material, normally used for making stencils, is opaque in appearance and comes in the following thicknesses: 75, 125, 190, 250 and 350 microns.

 

Paper and card – available in various colours, it can be used for making sheets of roof tiles and slates etc. When cut the edges can have a dark colourisation.

 

Which materials can NOT be laser cut ?

Unfortunately Styrene, commonly known as “plasticard†can not be laser cut due to the chemicals it makes and the inferior cut that is produced. This also extends to anything with PVC in it. We can surface etch, but not cut, metals, glass and stone.

 

What “Glues†can I use ?

 

Rowmark – Superglue, Plastic Weld, MEK-PAK

Acrylic – Superglue (but can produce a white haze) Plastic Weld

MDF, ply-wood, and veneer – White PVA (wood glue), Superglue

Mylar – Spray adhesive such as 3M Craft Mount, superglue

Paper and card - Spray adhesive such as 3M Craft Mount, White PVA (wood glue)

 

Alternatively any of the sheet materials can have “double sided†adhesive tape applied to the back before cutting – please let us know if you wish us to quote for this option.

 

What do I paint the components with ?

 

We recommend lightly rubbing down the Rowmark pieces with fine “wet & dry†paper before spraying with a primer such as Halfords Plastic Primer. You can then either spray it with your chosen colour from an aerosol, airbrush or just hand paint using such as acrylic or enamel paints. We often use household emulsion paint such as Dulux Vinyl Matt colours.

 

Hope this helps (no connection just a satisfied customer)

[2ManySpams]

Glad you liked the pictures. I'm lucky in the job to be able to get pictures people cant normally see. Glad to assist genuine folk!

 

craig

 

good to meet up with you yesterday, hope you can make it over to wadebridge in october to see the layout in the flesh.

 

Thanks

 

chris and damian

[winterbournecm]

Hi Guys, I can reply at last. The work internet access is so fickle, and I've worked every day since Saturday.

Great to meet you & Damian, let me know if you require any more photos around BZ.

 

Best wishes

 

Craig

[vac_basher]

Can we have some more pics please Chris? B)

[2ManySpams]

Can we have some more pics please Chris? B)

 

Hi I'll post a few more from this last weekend's Wadebridge show when i have time over the next few evenings. If you're really keen then have a look at the Wadebridge show thread - there's a fair few great shots others have posted already. Always interesting to see the photo angles others find!

[2ManySpams]

A few more photos of DitD from the Wadebridge show in October. Damian's been concentrating on the stock since the last show but John and I added some figures to the scenics to add some people interest.

 

First of all by popular request of Mickey here we have a developer talking to a council planner about the possibility of a static caravan park....

On to the Admiral Rodney pub and a character christened "Fat Les" appears to have roused from the gutter from the night before. From talking to folk who knew the Par Inn in this period we should also have 'a young lady' loitering around the area too.

Next we see a chap (no name yet) talking a stroll along the old tramway.

Here we see one of the workers in St B's yard talking a 'well earned' rest. Is that 'Skol'?

Ganger Fred trudges along the cess perhaps looking for his lost car keys.

Rail enthusiast Jim is trying to get him self a souvenir from the 08 wheelset.

The Skol drinker was later joined by a colleague who does actually appear to be working...

[P.C.M]

Hi,

Love the latest pics, the class 37 in the second to last pic looks like it has had a bad day. I like the people too certainly brings an already great layout to life.

 

Look forwards to more updates on the building as well it's looking good so far. It might just make me get on with some of mine.

 

Cheers Peter.

[big T]

'Ganger Fred' really appears to be p'eed off with having lost his keys!

 

Fantastic work on what is a real gem, in particular your plasticard construction skills. Awesome.

 

Nice to see really dirty loco's on a layout - more prototypical IMHO.

 

I especially like the tractor with the oily bodysides! It reminds me of having been working on 37227, we took her out for a test run having replaced the A bank injectors.

 

I happened to look out of the rear cab just as she did a huge cough and got sprayed in oil and general gunk.

 

Happy days!

[Worsdell forever]

I heard that some one had bought 'Ganger Fred' one of them key rings that bleep when you whistle, only problem is he can't whistle and when a 20 went past it bleeped ok but the noise of the engine drowned it out... :D

[2ManySpams]

I heard that some one had bought 'Ganger Fred' one of them key rings that bleep when you whistle, only problem is he can't whistle and when a 20 went past it bleeped ok but the noise of the engine drowned it out... :D

I'll have a pint of whatever you've been on.

[2ManySpams]

Peter / Big T

 

Many thanks for the comments - I'm sure that Damian will be chuffed (or whatever the 37 equivalent is) read when he reads them. There will be more photos over the weekend.... watch this space! (ok, well not this one but the one below that isn't there yet)

[2ManySpams]

Actually Ganger Fred is probably a bit sullen due to have a large tool (mechanical that is ) chopped off from between his hands , his arms removed and reset in their current position...

[Worsdell forever]

Actually Ganger Fred is probably a bit sullen due to have a large tool (mechanical that is ) chopped off from between his hands , his arms removed and reset in their current position...

 

[BlackRat]

I cant believe it!

 

I forgot all aboput the Wadebridge show!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1:(

[2ManySpams]

Forgot about Wadebridge show? How could you!!

 

Here's a few more photos to make up for it - mostly Damian's clay rolling stock this time....

 

Bachmann CDA weathered by Phil

 

Dapol Silver Bullets, toned down by Damian

 

Tigers built by Geoff

[JackBlack]

What ballast did you use and how did you apply it?

[2ManySpams]

What ballast did you use and how did you apply it?

 

I'll ask Damian and John for you....

[2ManySpams]

I'll ask Damian and John for you....

 

Ok, response from Damian as follows:

 

It was a mix of various wood land scenic’s shades; light buff, dark buff, iron oxide, light grey, dark grey and blended in the coffee grinder to get various grades – right down to a dust.

 

Track all painted dark brown, and rails bright orange.

 

Glue applied with pipette before the ballast, flooding all area required. Let settle.

 

Ballast then sprinkled on with large salt grinder.

 

Tamped/ tidied into place with knife as required.

 

Let dry.

 

Rails then dry brushed with mid brown/ grey to tone down.

 

Sleepers dry brushed with mid grey/ light grey.

 

For the sidings green scatter was added to the mix, and also separately scattered on top afterwards.

 

You'll notice the use of kitchen equipment in this approach! For some reason the coffee still has a hint of granite....

[JackBlack]

Thanks Chris (and Damian).

[Captain Kernow]

Glue applied with pipette before the ballast, flooding all area required. Let settle.

 

This is an interesting method, but I'm curious to know how many sleeper bays were done at a time, what kind of glue was used and (assuming it wasn't standard white PVA), how long it took to go off sufficiently, to prevent the scattered ballast from adhering to it's uppermost surface?

 

Ballast then sprinkled on with large salt grinder.

Again, an interesting idea - is there a specific advantage with using this as opposed to, say, a teaspoon to scatter?

[2ManySpams]

This is an interesting method, but I'm curious to know how many sleeper bays were done at a time, what kind of glue was used and (assuming it wasn't standard white PVA), how long it took to go off sufficiently, to prevent the scattered ballast from adhering to it's uppermost surface?

 

 

Again, an interesting idea - is there a specific advantage with using this as opposed to, say, a teaspoon to scatter?

 

CK, glad to have you on board!

 

I'll ask the ballasting boys the questions and let you know what they say.....

 

ATB

 

Chris

[2ManySpams]

This is an interesting method, but I'm curious to know how many sleeper bays were done at a time, what kind of glue was used and (assuming it wasn't standard white PVA), how long it took to go off sufficiently, to prevent the scattered ballast from adhering to it's uppermost surface?

 

 

Again, an interesting idea - is there a specific advantage with using this as opposed to, say, a teaspoon to scatter?

 

CK

 

Answers from Damian as follows:

 

1. Glue is the normal PVA ballast mix, PVA, water and a little washing up liquid. I can’t remember the exact mix, but its not so critical, its needs to be just runny enough to let it flow around the sleepers, say a 25% - 75% ratio, but experimentation is required depending on the make of glue you are using. It is essential to keep the glue off the top of the sleepers and chairs. Do around a dozen sleepers at a time. But you will get a feel for how many as it depends what surface you are ballasting on and how long its takes to soak in. The time to apply the ballast is once the area is completely covered, it’s settled down to the board, but before the glue has chance to soak in to the cork/board.

 

2. Yes. It comes out of the salt spreader very evenly. If you use a spoon or your fingers you cannot, in my view, get an even enough spread. Bearing in mind the idea is to not have to touch the ballast afterwards.

 

Hope this helps

[vac_basher]

I really like this layout.

The drivers view video was amazing! B)