njee20

The broad crux is that people care about different things. Plenty of people out there are happy with Kato Unitrack. Many will say you can make it look realistic. I disagree with them, but all power to them. People don’t necessarily actually accept the atrocities you seem concerned with, they’re just not bothered/don’t notice them. Other people may find issue with your signalling not being prototypical, your train formations being unrealistic or your double yellow lines being out of scale. You may not know this, or care. If you seek fidelity as a key element then mass produced RTR track work, expressly designed to work with literally every item of stock from the last 60 years, probably isn’t the best choice. But then I find it odd using Peco track, as I think the points look poor compared to the real thing. Ironically I’m not bothered about stock bumping through them so much. I’m a bit confused though, as you talk about derailments, but your primary grievance appears to be about items bumping through pointwork. Finetrax would seem to be a good option for you.

Happened into Gaugemaster earlier and saw this in stock. Must admit I thought it looks hugely plasticky (and the cab side numbers do look wrong). Like it’s unpainted. I don’t even model OO, let alone HO, so I’ve no dog in the fight, but I thought it looked pretty poor, and wouldn’t pay half the asking price.

Lovely job! I've been playing in N, but just not happy with how fine I can get bits (or not) whilst retaining rigidity of lattice pieces. Some work well for FDM printing, but not particularly the lattice structures. I like the modular approach though, very elegant way of doing it.

Surely the issue here is not so much that it’s not for sale, it’s that you do not talk to its owner… this would appear to be a significant stumbling block. Given I presume it’s been some years since you saw the layout I agree with the above, make your own based on the bits you recall liking from ‘the other’ layout.

Totally, I had a similar result with Amazon some years ago and the UK CEO, but it’s more likely to be effective when you’ve complained already and it’s not satisfactory. I used to be the executive assistant for a senior director of an insurance company, so got a bit of experience on both sides here 🤣

I've nothing good to say about water based resins. They're harder to work with, vastly less stable and no less toxic! Glad it's working for you!

Read your policy and understand exactly what you’re entitled to. Go to your insurer and be very clear on that, with a timeframe. If you’re unhappy with their conduct (as may well already be the case) then you need to raise a complaint to your insurer. The ombudsman will not entertain complaints if you’ve not been through the complaints procedure of the insurer. It’s a nuclear option, not a first port of call. Likewise going straight to a CEO at this point is unlikely to yield a result. Time and a place for that, but you’re not there IMO.

What’s the question?

Whilst it's not hard it's not that easy either! You'll need to remove the crown race (which the headset bearings rest on) from the old steerer, and fit that to the new one. Then you'll need to measure (carefully!) and cut the steerer tube down and fit a star fangled nut to tension the headset.

Did you get the 16” one? I was sorely tempted, but I really don’t need another printer!

Not the OP, so maybe slightly cheeky, but I’m doing a 5-car 377, initially in N, but I’ll likely size it up. Put it on hold a bit with Revolution announcing theirs, but I don’t believe they’re doing a 5-car 377/7. Test print of an N gauge body shell: As for the pictures in the thread, you’ll have to get the authors to repost them all individually. The pictures were lost when the website changed hosts a while ago.

I ran an overnight print on my Saturn 2 the other night. Temperature in the garage was 3 degrees. Heated the resin and build plate (which took a while) with the heat gun, and had no issues. Perhaps combine with one of the more technical solutions for really long prints or if you have long rest times, which could contribute to resin cooling.

My final say on the matter, and my experience based purely on having used well over 100 litres of resin, but the primary issue with water washable is a tendency for failure months later. This is admittedly much more prevalent on hollow models like stock bodies where it is absolutely imperative it’s cured internally as well as externally. It isn’t any easier to clean; the water is toxic to aquatic life, so running pieces under the tap is akin to pouring engine oil down the drain. Yes you can do it, but you shouldn’t. Acetone and a fine brush works better IMO, and it’ll evaporate, unlike contaminated water. Purely my £0.02, no doubt to be ignored 👍🏼 I congratulate you on what you’ve accomplished, I shall continue to watch from afar.

I confess to having no experience of that specific resin (I have tried dozens though!), but I would personally counsel against water washable every time. It’s markedly less stable, no less toxic, and more awkward to deal with the output from cleaning (if you use water). If course YMMV.

Yep, been printing for years on both resin and FDM, so well aware of all of that, was simply an observation. What speeds are you using in your Cura profile? I realise I could just download it 🤣 Was doing some printing on one of the resin printers last night, so chucked a full turnout in. I get people saying that they’ll curl up, but I wonder in N whether that’ll be mitigated (or actually worse). I have to doth my cap to you Martin, the fact this was created in less than 5 minutes is seriously impressive! I changed no settings, so it’ll almost certainly be scrap, but fascinating to see! Which resin are you going for? I’d recommend either Sunlu ABS-Like (cheap) or Siraya Fast (less cheap!), both appear to be widely in stock. Adding some Siraya Tenacious gives significant flex, but can soften detail, it’s almost rubbery.

Yes, I get all of that, just surprised. The chairs will be very quick indeed, under an hour I'd expect, and you can fit as many as you like on - the only dimension which impacts print time on a resin printer is the height, unlike FDM. Bought some bullhead rail at Warley at the weekend to have a go at this in N gauge for some hidden pointwork, should be fun!

6.5 hours sounds like a very long time for that. Is the Cura profile very slow?

Whilst you can buy 'blank' sound decoders it would be a curious thing to do for 99% of users. There are a handful of free projects out there from the likes of ESU if you have the requisite hardware to flash the decoder, but generally the sound providers (LegoManBiffo, YouChoos, Digitrains etc) will sell you a decoder pre-loaded with a sound file of your choosing. You plug in your decoder, stick the loco on the track and it makes chuffing/brmming/whirring noises as appropriate. In effect the controller simply sends 'commands' to the decoder, so you have a button for F2, and that makes a horn noise. There is no software installation per se.

The design screams 1994 to me rather than 2024! Hopefully any early render, but it looks awful.

That is interesting! Hope it sells well for them.

We need the dislike button back for posts like this. Ill informed, inaccurate and slightly bigoted for good measure. Chapeau. The smallest item you can model is the same in any scale. N foregoes some of those bits, but IMO it’s no more fiddly. You need to have good track, the larger scales are more forgiving. Kato Unitrack is great for ease of use and quickly getting up and running. Peco code 55 gets my vote as the best compromise between cost, realism and usability. Dapol don’t make much N in Chirk either. I believe it’s more OO, but not too much by way of rolling stock.

Whilst I'm sure it'll all become clear in the fullness of time (I saw Ben say the custom number ordering will go live soon) it's custom numbers not custom liveries. I rather presume that there would have to be a 'base model' of hybrid DB/EWS to be able to add your own number. Otherwise where does that end? It's an obvious livery, still worn by many of the fleet, and not offered on general release by either brand to date (Dapol do 002 in a set), but I can't see that being an option at launch.

I have no issues whatsoever with maths (gold star for the patronising tone 🙄), but I don't understand how taking the real dimensions of an object, and converting everything individually is easier than designing 'full size' and then converting once. It'll depend what you're using as a source though of course and what measurements are provided, and whether you 'think' in inches.

But then you have to calculate every dimension as you go. Surely that’s far harder?!

Superb, that looks great!