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Carnforth

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  1. As an update. tested two of these, type C and D Att video links of Type C in an unfinished Peckett kit for a customer. Next one goes in a Pannier chassis kit. Ignore the noise, it's the sensitive microphones on the camera. Test is running on pure DC as with H+M Duette. Type D ( not shiown ) was not best for slow running, as expected.
  2. I walked part of that. I guess the low profile was for the underpass from the sheds to the port. It's part of a footpath now, accessed via a small parking area outlined in black, across the works and leads to Spit point.
  3. Yes, I use Mr Muscle frequently, perfectly safe on plastic. Same method as you've used with the powerspray.
  4. https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/locomotive/m4sftyv9/ Same part. HTH
  5. Hi. They are there in Section 5A of the catalogue / price guide, 2013 version, granted!
  6. I'm pretty sure those supplied in Comet kits are from Markits.
  7. Have a look at my thread on Motors and drive systems, gives a breakdown of how I modded mine. HTH
  8. Not at all, do whatever you please. If it helps others all the better. I now have a type "C" which I have modified and the 3rd shaft has an extra reduction, giving the lower shaft speed, or put another way, the motor is spinning nearly three times as fast for the same final reduction. Also the motor mounting holes in the adapter plate are about 9.5mm apart and the motor shaft is 1mm. HTH
  9. Who's designations are the C and D? It's supposedly 381rpm but what that means I have no idea because the rpm is surely dependent on the voltage and load. The other type, that require the drive to be turned via bevel gears, were bought as 300 rpm. My take on this is that on full volts, this will be the output shaft speed. I did note that the third shaft within the gearbox has different gearing and creates a bigger reduction in C rather than D. So for the same motor speed, the output shaft speed should be around 1/3 with box C. Exact figures may be academic but I may have client's project to experiment with, at my risk, with alternatives available in the near future so I'll be sure to relay my findings.
  10. Stunning, beautiful modelling, well observed.
  11. May I ask which N20 set you are using? From the pics they appear to be "D" version. I have here a D and C version side by side, 381 shaft RPM compared to 136 shaft RPM and just now did a quick back to back test using a finger on the final drive, ( not very scientific, I know ) and the C felt to have much more torque. As I see it the units are identical apart from an extra reduction in the gearbox on the third shaft with the motor spinning much more freely, by nearly X 3 per output shaft RPM?
  12. Following Ruston's advice on his workshop thread re these N20's I purchased a "D" version, 381 Shaft RPM to experiment with. 30 minutes with some basic tools saw the job done for converting to 1/8 axles and testing. Removed just enough of the rivets from one side using a 2mm drill in the pin vice and removing the screw from the adapter block leaves you able to remove one side and the final drive and 3mm shaft. I pressed the drive off the splined shaft with long, thin socket in the vice. Now with a 1/8 broach I removed the splines from within the final drive gear and opened out the two spacers and the frame bearings. Reassembly is a simple reversal. Photo of box with one side and final drive removed, the three video links show running on DC via trusty H+M Duette, then a Lokpilot V4 then a Zimo 648R. Running at around 1/4 speed on DCC. Works well enough on all 3 so far, although I don't have a target loco for this yet I though it worth a play although this version may be best used with small diameter drivers. It is actually quieter in the flesh than the camera picks up. Now ordered a "C" version to convert and test. I haven't checked yet but I'm guessing that the motor mount screw centres within the adapter block might match other motors, will test with next one, just needing the worm swapping, shaft diameter willing! Might help anyone considering these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254942541046?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=554822692258&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZ80w8rbqfg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awOwcHCSFs0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oiNK3XxDcs0
  13. I got mine in UK. Try searching military model sites etc.
  14. I should have added for forming rivets on brass I also use my trusty "Graskop" tool made by Dick and Simon Ganderton. I don't think they're available new now. When I ordered it I specified 1" rivets @ 3" pitch as set by the width of the anvil. It will do bigger spacings, of course, I figured at the time that would be the minimum I'd require and there's a distance bar to set for doing straight lines. Adjust the weight according to the thickness of metal. Used in the pic att.
  15. Here are some from Archers surface detail sheet. you do get a good range of pitches on one sheet. These went on after primer but have had two top coats plus one of varnish. HTH
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