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Heljan Class 35 Hymek


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With a great deal of warranted attention recently given to the Warships, I am however of the opinion the Hymek is still one of the "best" models around.  I did a little updating to bring it into line with the current level of detailing on my own models.

A roof grill and etched fan is fitted and is renumbered to 7017 with EE etches.  The air tanks have been fitted in the correct location and full buffer beam detail with wire draw bars in loo of the tension lock couplings.  A chequer plate foot shelf is added above the buffer beam with the foot iron added.  Sound is fitted with the speaker located in the fuel tanks.  A thumb print is attached attempting to show the work.  I'm sure other chaps have done similar work so any photos.

 

post-1644-0-90029000-1441635946_thumb.jpg

 

post-1644-0-25287900-1441635951_thumb.jpg

 

Mike

Edited by tarifa
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  • 2 years later...

With a great deal of warranted attention recently given to the Warships, I am however of the opinion the Hymek is still one of the "best" models around.  I did a little updating to bring it into line with the current level of detailing on my own models.

A roof grill and etched fan is fitted and is renumbered to 7017 with EE etches.  The air tanks have been fitted in the correct location and full buffer beam detail with wire draw bars in loo of the tension lock couplings.  A chequer plate foot shelf is added above the buffer beam with the foot iron added.  Sound is fitted with the speaker located in the fuel tanks.  A thumb print is attached attempting to show the work.  I'm sure other chaps have done similar work so any photos.

 

attachicon.gifFront End Heljan 7017.jpg

 

attachicon.gifHeljan Hymek Detailed and renumbered 7017.jpg

 

Mike

 

Great Job !

 

I recently got rid of what I considered to be the poor lighting system and fitted lighting units made by Jason Edmunds (Stickswipe) of ebay fame .

This allowed much better headcode lighting and individual control of the red tail lights .

 

The Legomanbiffo sound was improved beyond all recognition by fitting an EM1 under the etched fan grille and a

putting a sugar cube into the tanks .

That speaker combo didn't work anywhere near as well with the Zimo Hymek project , still working on that one !

 

Albie  

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Great Job !

 

I recently got rid of what I considered to be the poor lighting system and fitted lighting units made by Jason Edmunds (Stickswipe) of ebay fame .

This allowed much better headcode lighting and individual control of the red tail lights .

 

The Legomanbiffo sound was improved beyond all recognition by fitting an EM1 under the etched fan grille and a

putting a sugar cube into the tanks .

That speaker combo didn't work anywhere near as well with the Zimo Hymek project , still working on that one !

 

Albie

Albie, did you have to hack the chassis block to fit the EM1? Been a while since iv been in a Heljan hymek and mines dying for a sound unit

Cheers

James

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  • 1 year later...
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Posted (edited)

We love these locos . always a favorite and Abbotswood allocation needs a couple of Lickey bankers to appear - either running light down to Gloucester or assisting a southbound train following a loco failure in the Bromsgrove area. So D7022/3 currently in works....

 

As per @tarifa's original post - etched fan grille and relocated air tank - plus those horns are a bit spindly, we replace with Markits turned brass jobbies - https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/324072729006?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=324072729006&targetid=879157198036&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9045574&poi=&campaignid=9437867024&mkgroupid=104303480548&rlsatarget=aud-629407027425:pla-879157198036&abcId=1140486&merchantid=7262894&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsYb0BRCOARIsAHbLPhGB_ngsSc1d8wBjVceotPiEgF8Zok9R2vDmdSgk19HgUsnjZKLPZI8aAun-EALw_wcB

 

Etched numbers too from Shawplan, and headboard clips removed from early locos but for locos in later life theres one thing missing from the Heljan model - the retro-fitted lower drivers door grab handles. See below - another excellent Brush Veteran photo

 

7001 Reading March 72 Slide 226

 

So have tried several ways to emulate this - heres latest attempt which I reckon is as good as I can get it, 2mm square hollow brass with a thin strip from a grille etching soldered on prior to installation....

 

 

 

 

 

57D6E275-5384-4115-99D1-AC493F21E7A1.jpeg

Edited by Phil Bullock
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  • 3 months later...

Wonder if anyone could help.  Had a 35 for a good while and is a smooth runner on DC.  Want to chip it but no point until can get the ussue resolved.

 

It hasn't ran in loads but has been up n down shunting type planks.

 

It's started to be a little hesitant at slow to get moving as if it's sapping evergy then it'll surge forward slightly making smooth starts not impossible but awkward.

 

If running fast for about 15 seconds it slows down then stops, presumably to cool down due to overheating or partial short maybe  Unsure.

 

Any ideas what the issue is or how to resolve it?

 

Getting the circuit board out to have a closer look seems it might be tricky and not sure how to do it if need be.

 

The loco is useless until can get it to stop dying somehow. 

 

Ugh. 

 

?

 

 

 

Edited by Knuckles
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Tried it with an older R965 Hornby controller (ones with a stepped down section for the actual controls) and a Gaugemaster Combi.  Same affect.  I know the controller you mentioned has a crappy safety cut out 'feature.'

 

Pick ups are perfectly touching and not dirty.

 

Can't get into the motor to maybe oil the spindles as the instructions are lacking information and currently unsure how to disassemble it without busting it.

Edited by Knuckles
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Have you got the parts diagram? Should help you recognise the parts.  Heljan use a pretty uniform construction plan for their fully body width models, so despite never having had the body off a 35 would expect to find a cast 'U' section chassis, with the motor retained by a pair of rubber cushions holding the motor captive inside the 'U'. You just ease it all apart.

 

I feel you are right to try applying lubrication to the motor bearings: a little dot of light oil on each to see if that fixes it, as it does sound like dry bearings, which heat and  seize

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14 hours ago, Knuckles said:

Tried it with an older R965 Hornby controller (ones with a stepped down section for the actual controls) and a Gaugemaster Combi.  Same affect.  I know the controller you mentioned has a crappy safety cut out 'feature.'

 

Pick ups are perfectly touching and not dirty.

 

Can't get into the motor to maybe oil the spindles as the instructions are lacking information and currently unsure how to disassemble it without busting it.

My recent experience , it might not be the motor .But cup attached to the worm drive on top of the bogie. Mine had split & ran exactly as you describe.

I'm old school & not into DCC.

 

I stripped 6 Heljan locos as a precaution & the said cup was split on all.

 

After a while the cup becomes loose due to split.

 

To me its a poor design . 

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On 07/09/2015 at 16:31, tarifa said:

With a great deal of warranted attention recently given to the Warships, I am however of the opinion the Hymek is still one of the "best" models around.  I did a little updating to bring it into line with the current level of detailing on my own models.

A roof grill and etched fan is fitted and is renumbered to 7017 with EE etches.  The air tanks have been fitted in the correct location and full buffer beam detail with wire draw bars in loo of the tension lock couplings.  A chequer plate foot shelf is added above the buffer beam with the foot iron added.  Sound is fitted with the speaker located in the fuel tanks.  A thumb print is attached attempting to show the work.  I'm sure other chaps have done similar work so any photos.

 

Not my era, or area. But the Hymek was one of my favourite engines on my railway as a boy. So I cuffed rule#1 about its ear and ordered one from KMRC.

 

But I'm interested in the updates that you made. Do you have any further details/links to the etches and placement of the air tanks, Mike?

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22 minutes ago, D1051 said:

My recent experience , it might not be the motor .But cup attached to the worm drive on top of the bogie. Mine had split & ran exactly as you describe.

I'm old school & not into DCC.

 

I stripped 6 Heljan locos as a precaution & the said cup was split on all.

 

After a while the cup becomes loose due to split.

 

To me its a poor design . 


Agreed .... but a very carefully applied touch of superglue will retain cup on shaft and eliminate drive slip ....

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7 minutes ago, truffy said:

But I'm interested in the updates that you made. Do you have any further details/links to the etches and placement of the air tanks, Mike?

 

The roof grill and fan is from A1 models many years ago.  The front buffer beam top step is brass chequer plate and the step iron is brass strip.  The running numbers are extreme etchings.  To locate the air tanks I took photos of 7017 down on the WSR.   If you think it will help I could take some photos for you.

 

Mike

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That would be fantastic if it’s not too much trouble!

4 minutes ago, tarifa said:

To locate the air tanks I took photos of 7017 down on the WSR.   If you think it will help I could take some photos for you.

 

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I'll see if the gubbins can be lifted off but the exploded diagram doesn't exactly help much.  Just a parts list, no instructions per sey.

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8 hours ago, D1051 said:

My recent experience , it might not be the motor .But cup attached to the worm drive on top of the bogie. Mine had split & ran exactly as you describe.

I'm old school & not into DCC.

 

I stripped 6 Heljan locos as a precaution & the said cup was split on all.

 

After a while the cup becomes loose due to split... 

As a relative newbie to operating Heljan product (first suitable model for me was the BTH type 1/Class 15) what sort of time are we talking before this problem becomes evident? Haven't encountered this one - so far...

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1 hour ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

As a relative newbie to operating Heljan product (first suitable model for me was the BTH type 1/Class 15) what sort of time are we talking before this problem becomes evident? Haven't encountered this one - so far...

 

My other 6 locos are ok. Yes the said cup is split but not loose.

 

Phil Bullock has provided a solution . 

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Any know how to remove the wheels? I pushed mine out a bitt too far on checking the back-to-backs and can't now press then in a bit without removing the wheel sets!

 

How does the original Tri-ang Hymek compare to the Heljan model?

 

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2 hours ago, roythebus said:

Any know how to remove the wheels? I pushed mine out a bitt too far on checking the back-to-backs and can't now press then in a bit without removing the wheel sets!

 

How does the original Tri-ang Hymek compare to the Heljan model?

 

Badly.

 

The Heljan Hymek is vastly superior both in haulage capacity and accuracy. It is one of Heljan's better models. It has the correctly offset roof grill and in general is a vastly superior model.

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21 hours ago, tarifa said:

The roof grill and fan is from A1 models many years ago.

 

Word to the wise: don't try googling "A1 models"! :blink:

 

OTOH, Shawplan do a fan and grille set for the Class 35 (DP35-00)

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 13/07/2020 at 22:38, BR Blue said:

Badly.

 

The Heljan Hymek is vastly superior both in haulage capacity and accuracy. It is one of Heljan's better models. It has the correctly offset roof grill and in general is a vastly superior model.

As seen on my Layout definitely a brilliant model

C290FAB6-D2A4-4B62-8959-95CD3649D7F0.jpeg

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On 13/07/2020 at 19:49, roythebus said:

Any know how to remove the wheels? I pushed mine out a bitt too far on checking the back-to-backs and can't now press then in a bit without removing the wheel sets!

 

How does the original Tri-ang Hymek compare to the Heljan model?

 


 

Hornbys Hymek wasnt bad in its day. The body shape is ok, however the paint job let most of them down (limitations of the day, I should add). If you put the effort in, repainted, flush glazed, your left with a decent body.

Trouble is the Triang chassis was poor by modern standards, the Hornby one is ok but Heljans is way ahead better.

 

it is testament to the model that some can fetch £60 on ebay, though older ones can be had for c£20.

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