RMweb Gold tarifa Posted September 7, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 7, 2015 (edited) With a great deal of warranted attention recently given to the Warships, I am however of the opinion the Hymek is still one of the "best" models around. I did a little updating to bring it into line with the current level of detailing on my own models. A roof grill and etched fan is fitted and is renumbered to 7017 with EE etches. The air tanks have been fitted in the correct location and full buffer beam detail with wire draw bars in loo of the tension lock couplings. A chequer plate foot shelf is added above the buffer beam with the foot iron added. Sound is fitted with the speaker located in the fuel tanks. A thumb print is attached attempting to show the work. I'm sure other chaps have done similar work so any photos. Mike Edited September 7, 2015 by tarifa 19 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Albie the plumber Posted April 17, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 17, 2018 With a great deal of warranted attention recently given to the Warships, I am however of the opinion the Hymek is still one of the "best" models around. I did a little updating to bring it into line with the current level of detailing on my own models. A roof grill and etched fan is fitted and is renumbered to 7017 with EE etches. The air tanks have been fitted in the correct location and full buffer beam detail with wire draw bars in loo of the tension lock couplings. A chequer plate foot shelf is added above the buffer beam with the foot iron added. Sound is fitted with the speaker located in the fuel tanks. A thumb print is attached attempting to show the work. I'm sure other chaps have done similar work so any photos. Front End Heljan 7017.jpg Heljan Hymek Detailed and renumbered 7017.jpg Mike Great Job ! I recently got rid of what I considered to be the poor lighting system and fitted lighting units made by Jason Edmunds (Stickswipe) of ebay fame . This allowed much better headcode lighting and individual control of the red tail lights . The Legomanbiffo sound was improved beyond all recognition by fitting an EM1 under the etched fan grille and a putting a sugar cube into the tanks . That speaker combo didn't work anywhere near as well with the Zimo Hymek project , still working on that one ! Albie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium jessy1692 Posted April 24, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 24, 2018 Great Job ! I recently got rid of what I considered to be the poor lighting system and fitted lighting units made by Jason Edmunds (Stickswipe) of ebay fame . This allowed much better headcode lighting and individual control of the red tail lights . The Legomanbiffo sound was improved beyond all recognition by fitting an EM1 under the etched fan grille and a putting a sugar cube into the tanks . That speaker combo didn't work anywhere near as well with the Zimo Hymek project , still working on that one ! Albie Albie, did you have to hack the chassis block to fit the EM1? Been a while since iv been in a Heljan hymek and mines dying for a sound unitCheers James Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted March 30, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 30, 2020 (edited) We love these locos . always a favorite and Abbotswood allocation needs a couple of Lickey bankers to appear - either running light down to Gloucester or assisting a southbound train following a loco failure in the Bromsgrove area. So D7022/3 currently in works.... As per @tarifa's original post - etched fan grille and relocated air tank - plus those horns are a bit spindly, we replace with Markits turned brass jobbies - https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/324072729006?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=324072729006&targetid=879157198036&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9045574&poi=&campaignid=9437867024&mkgroupid=104303480548&rlsatarget=aud-629407027425:pla-879157198036&abcId=1140486&merchantid=7262894&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsYb0BRCOARIsAHbLPhGB_ngsSc1d8wBjVceotPiEgF8Zok9R2vDmdSgk19HgUsnjZKLPZI8aAun-EALw_wcB Etched numbers too from Shawplan, and headboard clips removed from early locos but for locos in later life theres one thing missing from the Heljan model - the retro-fitted lower drivers door grab handles. See below - another excellent Brush Veteran photo So have tried several ways to emulate this - heres latest attempt which I reckon is as good as I can get it, 2mm square hollow brass with a thin strip from a grille etching soldered on prior to installation.... Edited March 30, 2020 by Phil Bullock 10 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted July 12, 2020 Share Posted July 12, 2020 (edited) Wonder if anyone could help. Had a 35 for a good while and is a smooth runner on DC. Want to chip it but no point until can get the ussue resolved. It hasn't ran in loads but has been up n down shunting type planks. It's started to be a little hesitant at slow to get moving as if it's sapping evergy then it'll surge forward slightly making smooth starts not impossible but awkward. If running fast for about 15 seconds it slows down then stops, presumably to cool down due to overheating or partial short maybe Unsure. Any ideas what the issue is or how to resolve it? Getting the circuit board out to have a closer look seems it might be tricky and not sure how to do it if need be. The loco is useless until can get it to stop dying somehow. Ugh. ? Edited July 12, 2020 by Knuckles Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted July 12, 2020 Share Posted July 12, 2020 What power controller are you using, not a Hornby R8250 by any chance? Perhaps it needs a simple clean, check the pickups, and light lube? Al. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted July 12, 2020 Share Posted July 12, 2020 (edited) Tried it with an older R965 Hornby controller (ones with a stepped down section for the actual controls) and a Gaugemaster Combi. Same affect. I know the controller you mentioned has a crappy safety cut out 'feature.' Pick ups are perfectly touching and not dirty. Can't get into the motor to maybe oil the spindles as the instructions are lacking information and currently unsure how to disassemble it without busting it. Edited July 12, 2020 by Knuckles Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted July 12, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 12, 2020 Can you run it on it's back, using wires to the wheels? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted July 12, 2020 Share Posted July 12, 2020 Yeah. Kinda odd really. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted July 12, 2020 Share Posted July 12, 2020 Have you got the parts diagram? Should help you recognise the parts. Heljan use a pretty uniform construction plan for their fully body width models, so despite never having had the body off a 35 would expect to find a cast 'U' section chassis, with the motor retained by a pair of rubber cushions holding the motor captive inside the 'U'. You just ease it all apart. I feel you are right to try applying lubrication to the motor bearings: a little dot of light oil on each to see if that fixes it, as it does sound like dry bearings, which heat and seize Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
truffy Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 On 07/09/2015 at 16:31, tarifa said: With a great deal of warranted attention recently given to the Warships, I am however of the opinion the Hymek is still one of the "best" models around. I did a little updating to bring it into line with the current level of detailing on my own models. A roof grill and etched fan is fitted and is renumbered to 7017 with EE etches. The air tanks have been fitted in the correct location and full buffer beam detail with wire draw bars in loo of the tension lock couplings. A chequer plate foot shelf is added above the buffer beam with the foot iron added. Sound is fitted with the speaker located in the fuel tanks. A thumb print is attached attempting to show the work. I'm sure other chaps have done similar work so any photos. Not my era, or area. But the Hymek was one of my favourite engines on my railway as a boy. So I cuffed rule#1 about its ear and ordered one from KMRC. But I'm interested in the updates that you made. Do you have any further details/links to the etches and placement of the air tanks, Mike? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted July 13, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 13, 2020 22 minutes ago, D1051 said: My recent experience , it might not be the motor .But cup attached to the worm drive on top of the bogie. Mine had split & ran exactly as you describe. I'm old school & not into DCC. I stripped 6 Heljan locos as a precaution & the said cup was split on all. After a while the cup becomes loose due to split. To me its a poor design . Agreed .... but a very carefully applied touch of superglue will retain cup on shaft and eliminate drive slip .... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tarifa Posted July 13, 2020 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 13, 2020 7 minutes ago, truffy said: But I'm interested in the updates that you made. Do you have any further details/links to the etches and placement of the air tanks, Mike? The roof grill and fan is from A1 models many years ago. The front buffer beam top step is brass chequer plate and the step iron is brass strip. The running numbers are extreme etchings. To locate the air tanks I took photos of 7017 down on the WSR. If you think it will help I could take some photos for you. Mike 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
truffy Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 That would be fantastic if it’s not too much trouble! 4 minutes ago, tarifa said: To locate the air tanks I took photos of 7017 down on the WSR. If you think it will help I could take some photos for you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 I'll see if the gubbins can be lifted off but the exploded diagram doesn't exactly help much. Just a parts list, no instructions per sey. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 8 hours ago, D1051 said: My recent experience , it might not be the motor .But cup attached to the worm drive on top of the bogie. Mine had split & ran exactly as you describe. I'm old school & not into DCC. I stripped 6 Heljan locos as a precaution & the said cup was split on all. After a while the cup becomes loose due to split... As a relative newbie to operating Heljan product (first suitable model for me was the BTH type 1/Class 15) what sort of time are we talking before this problem becomes evident? Haven't encountered this one - so far... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Legroom Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 I’ve always thought that this was one of the best rtr diesels. Heljan really nailed the body shape in my opinion. 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
roythebus Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 Any know how to remove the wheels? I pushed mine out a bitt too far on checking the back-to-backs and can't now press then in a bit without removing the wheel sets! How does the original Tri-ang Hymek compare to the Heljan model? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BR Blue Posted July 13, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 13, 2020 2 hours ago, roythebus said: Any know how to remove the wheels? I pushed mine out a bitt too far on checking the back-to-backs and can't now press then in a bit without removing the wheel sets! How does the original Tri-ang Hymek compare to the Heljan model? Badly. The Heljan Hymek is vastly superior both in haulage capacity and accuracy. It is one of Heljan's better models. It has the correctly offset roof grill and in general is a vastly superior model. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
truffy Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 21 hours ago, tarifa said: The roof grill and fan is from A1 models many years ago. Word to the wise: don't try googling "A1 models"! OTOH, Shawplan do a fan and grille set for the Class 35 (DP35-00) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted August 2, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 2, 2020 On 13/07/2020 at 19:49, roythebus said: Any know how to remove the wheels? I pushed mine out a bitt too far on checking the back-to-backs and can't now press then in a bit without removing the wheel sets! How does the original Tri-ang Hymek compare to the Heljan model? Hornbys Hymek wasnt bad in its day. The body shape is ok, however the paint job let most of them down (limitations of the day, I should add). If you put the effort in, repainted, flush glazed, your left with a decent body. Trouble is the Triang chassis was poor by modern standards, the Hornby one is ok but Heljans is way ahead better. it is testament to the model that some can fetch £60 on ebay, though older ones can be had for c£20. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 (edited) I have posted this photo elsewhere, but it may be relevant here. It shows two Heljan Hymeks (one detailed with mesh roof grille) and a detailed Triang version with two motor bogies of the original cast metal type (i.e. pre-ringfield). As an experiment I chose to finish the Triang one in a might-have-been maroon livery. The Triang cabs are fractionally too short, which shows in the slightly too-narrow side windows, but overall it really isn't a bad model, but definitely lacks the more refined running of the Heljan mechanisms (as adb968008 says above). Hymeks in Triplicate - 2 by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr Edited August 2, 2020 by SRman 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted August 2, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 2, 2020 2 hours ago, SRman said: I have posted this photo elsewhere, but it may be relevant here. It shows two Heljan Hymeks (one detailed with mesh roof grille) and a detailed Triang version with two motor bogies of the original cast metal type (i.e. pre-ringfield). As an experiment I chose to finish the Triang one in a might-have-been maroon livery. The Triang cabs are fractionally too short, which shows in the slightly too-narrow side windows, but overall it really isn't a bad model, but definitely lacks the more refined running of the Heljan mechanisms (as adb968008 says above). Hymeks in Triplicate - 2 by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr Wow..Your picture is haunted There seems to be a ghostly apparition of an EMU ? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted August 3, 2020 Share Posted August 3, 2020 10 hours ago, adb968008 said: Wow..Your picture is haunted There seems to be a ghostly apparition of an EMU ? I don't see any EMUs there! Must be a figment of your imagination. Actually, a resin Bulleid style2 HAP unit I was working on at the time. It has progressed further since that photo was taken. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salmotrutta Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 (edited) Anyone found a source of replacement airhorns for the Heljan Hymek? I just got mine out and one of them has gone missing. Tried Gaugemaster but they don't seem to have them. PS. I have an unbuilt Triang Hornby CKD Hymek exactly like the one I had as a kid. Tempting to build it but I'm sure it's worth more unbuilt.... Edited August 19, 2020 by Salmotrutta Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now