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Peco Bullhead Points: in the flesh


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37 minutes ago, Harlequin said:

Chris, Have a look at this new idea that's in the pipeline:

These are straight turnouts as designed but they can be made to curve.

 

Thanks. Already got one eye on these. Although doing curved points might need some bodging 

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27 minutes ago, gr.king said:

In case anybody does not realise, it is already perfectly possible to bend the Peco large radius turnouts to a moderate degree, if you want curved points - but not to anything like the extent of being able to lay a circle of toy track on a small round coffee table...

No I’d not realised, thanks. The template on my design had used PECO SL-E186 points and they do not look that severe a curve to be honest. They’re just listed as ‘double radius’ which doesn’t line up with any other firms (marcway, C&L) description of the radius of their points

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  • 1 month later...

Seems like the trail has gone cold on diamonds and slips. Is there not even a whiff of these items.

Is it just me or has disappointment turned to frustration for others too?

If they are not careful, Peco will be overtaken by the market and we'll all start building Finetrax points, crossings and slips.

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30 minutes ago, RBAGE said:

Seems like the trail has gone cold on diamonds and slips. Is there not even a whiff of these items.

Is it just me or has disappointment turned to frustration for others too?

If they are not careful, Peco will be overtaken by the market and we'll all start building Finetrax points, crossings and slips.

 

Peco are not the only manufacturer to go a little quiet about when their new products are available.

They announced the first bullhead points a long time before they were here. There was a long period of silence between the announcement of their Mk3 OLE & its introduction. That was so long, I thought they had dropped their plans for it.

It is known that Peco have paused their production in order to make PPE & have also re-arranged their plant to allow their staff to continue production while maintaining some sort of social distancing. These will all have impacted production of their current range.

 

Hattons showed the advantage of keeping quiet with their class 66 by doing the opposite: Excellent communication to begin with, then a number of different issues each created their own delays which in turn caused frustration.

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My code 75 FB curved points have now been ballasted to match the surrounding BH track and, to be honest, the  difference is not as obvious as I had feared.  Not enough to delay making the FB double slip into a similar permanent arrangement.

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54 minutes ago, 2750Papyrus said:

My code 75 FB curved points have now been ballasted to match the surrounding BH track and, to be honest, the  difference is not as obvious as I had feared.  Not enough to delay making the FB double slip into a similar permanent arrangement.

If you can be bothered with adding cosmetic chair sides to them they blend in well once ballasted.

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Is gratitude for the fact that Peco are (at last) actually doing something to provide ready-made OO bullhead track with typical British sleeper spacing more appropriate than complaint about slow speed of introduction in a time of great difficulty?

 

Will many impatient "can't do / won't try" participants in the hobby really switch successfully to building Finetrax rather than buying Peco? I doubt it, but it would be good news if they did, in this age of abandonment of manual skills.

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I would absolutely love to use these points again on my next project , but as that will be Hornby class 31 territory I need to find a solution to the shorting that doesn’t involve point surgery , otherwise I’ll have to go elsewhere 

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10 minutes ago, rob D2 said:

I would absolutely love to use these points again on my next project , but as that will be Hornby class 31 territory I need to find a solution to the shorting that doesn’t involve point surgery , otherwise I’ll have to go elsewhere 

The Finetrax 4mm products may be an option - the problem with Peco is that the short Unifrog - needed to make "Unifrog" work - leads to the shorts with the wider wobbly wheels. I tried my Sir William Stanier with the Flangeless trailing wheels - same issue. I should of course get round to installing the flanged wheels supplied! I can't find any current replacements for the 31.

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I saw those - watching with interest.

the scenic bit would need about three points so making some may be an option.

 

annoyingly I’ve also notice some of the Hornby stock also shorts the points - namely a couple of “ coalfish “ wagons.

 

Bachmann never does !

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On 23/03/2021 at 10:51, Gilbert said:

 

I tried my Sir William Stanier with the Flangeless trailing wheels - same issue.

 

You’ll need to carve or file a pair of flangeways in a cross member to enable them to turn. The Princesses have no such problem.

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One advantage of the Peco offerings is that they are quite robust, and amenable to cut and shut. This scissors in progress is quite close to Number 6 crossing angle geometry.

The bullhead turnouts in the corners are cut and slightly straightened removing much of the curved departure angle after the frog. The diamond crossing is a actually a Peco HOm 20 degree crossing, that I have cut and re-spaced.  Once I tidy up the gaps in the sleepers and the wiring and ballast it I think it will look ok. And more importantly to me it runs well. It has usefully less deflection than the 24 degree diamonds Peco offer in OO.

3A526E1C-0C6A-44C1-86BF-765A35DEAB0C.jpeg

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This photo shows more clearly the spots where there are cuts and added rail sections. One trick is that the flange ways on the HOm crossings are 1mm, so to preserve the required 15.2 mm check gauge for ready to run OO stock, the rails in the diamond crossing are gauged at 16.2 mm, not 16.5 mm. (The same as OO-SF). Easy to do as I had to re-gauge it from metre gauge anyway :)

 

7D73283E-7114-4A28-AA2E-90415F7D16DD.jpeg

Edited by Dominion
Photo orientation
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That’s probably what I would do now, and the single slip in the bottom left of the first picture is C&L and Exactoscale. However, I hadn’t built much track then and this is the Peco Bullhead thread after all. 
I am just saying the Peco products are robust so you can do this kind of Frankenstein operation if you want to.

Tom

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From what I can tell in the pictures, it appears that a lot of isolations / plastic fishplates are required for complicated trackwork, which I can only gather is to prevent shorting out of the power.

 

I have not used these turnouts / points yet although I have seen them at the model shop in chester and from what I have seen price wise they are almost the same price as an O gauge turnout / point.

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7 hours ago, 313201 said:

From what I can tell in the pictures, it appears that a lot of isolations / plastic fishplates are required for complicated trackwork, which I can only gather is to prevent shorting out of the power.

 

I have not used these turnouts / points yet although I have seen them at the model shop in chester and from what I have seen price wise they are almost the same price as an O gauge turnout / point.

Not really .

points are around £35 ( were £26 when I brought mine two years back ) . O gauge points are £55-60

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17 hours ago, No Decorum said:

You’ll need to carve or file a pair of flangeways in a cross member to enable them to turn. The Princesses have no such problem.

Can you expand - is there a problem fitting the flanged wheels?

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11 hours ago, 313201 said:

From what I can tell in the pictures, it appears that a lot of isolations / plastic fishplates are required for complicated trackwork, which I can only gather is to prevent shorting out of the power.

 

Complex track formations do indeed require various isolations particularly in those areas where rail polarity needs to change.  All a matter of thinking it through and usefully drawing a dagram to fifure out what polarity needs to change and when in connection with the lie of the turnouts.

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44 minutes ago, The Stationmaster said:

Complex track formations do indeed require various isolations particularly in those areas where rail polarity needs to change.  All a matter of thinking it through and usefully drawing a dagram to fifure out what polarity needs to change and when in connection with the lie of the turnouts.

Somebody once suggested to me IIRC, on junctions like this, to isolate every rail end on an end to end facing  points and ensure every point rail and adjoining rail is wired for power. I have only used conventional but 'adapted' for DCC Peco C75s & not used these new points (with Unifrog is it?), so it may not be of any use? 

This may or may not be more complicated but it did help me get almost all crossing types non shorting and polarity correct first time as I am a duffer with trickery.

P

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13 hours ago, Gilbert said:

Can you expand - is there a problem fitting the flanged wheels?

If you fit the flanged wheels, you’ll probably find that they won’t turn. Look for what’s in contact with the flanges. File away enough plastic where the flanges touch and the wheels should rotate freely.

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