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Garethp8873

Hornby announce the LNER J36

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So TTS Fitted Maude is not programmed to work on DC. I don't have a DCC controller.

Is there a source of 8-pin blanking plates? Everyone seems to be out of the Bachmann pack.

I seem to recall when Bachmann sell DCC fitted locos they supply a blanking plate. Why can't Hornby do the same, especially if they program their chips not to work on DC.

I currently have a loco I can't use unless I rob parts from another loco!

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Can anyone give details/picture of the works plate on the front splasher. I would like to fit an etched one, Narrow Planet do the cabside number plate and an NBR works plate but I can't tell how accurate the etch is compared to the real think, ie works number build date.

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This do? Note they were altered to LNER as opposed to NBR.

 

https://www.gwra.co.uk/auctions/worksplate-london-north-eastern-railway-cowlairs-w-2018nov-0333.html

 

The NBR version looked like this.

 

https://rcts.zenfolio.com/steam-lner/k/hA135B80E#ha135b80e

 

 

 

 

Jason

Edited by Steamport Southport

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I've now got my Maude, and having given it(her?) a light weathering, repainted the tool box red oxide added crew, proper coal and some fireirons there are just some lamps to add. I've decided to only get the cabside plate from Narrow Planet. 

I found inspiration from a couple of photographs in the OPC Book "The West Highland Mallaig Extension". Back in 1984 673 visited the line twice , firstly at the end of May and then again in July . The May jaunt was not an operating success, the 4 mk1 3 FO's and a BCK in fake pullman livery were to much for the little 0 6 0, however in July 673 spent several days hauling "The Glenfinnan Flyer". 

The train consisted of a mk1 TSO(SO?) BSO combination in blue&grey with Scotrail branding, so thanks to Hornby and Railtec a very easily modelled train . I payed only a few £'s more for 673 than a non sound J36 so the TTS sound decoder, whilst being a bonus it wont stay. My only real critism is the draw bar , the short postion is to close and the extended position leaves to bigger gap but thats hardly a major issue. The toolbox may be polished wood, something I've only just picked up on and doesn't seem to appear in all pictures, the only other minor detail change is the veritical part of the reverser linkage is red matching the (lovely) between the frames valve gear. With just a little weathering and a few details it certainly makes an already lovely engine into an a cracker.

Edited by w124bob
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Here is Maude with the "Glenfinnan Flyer"

 

 

20200118_113253-1.jpg

20200118_113354-1.jpg

20200118_113332-1.jpg

Thanks to Flickr I found the BSO id easliy and yes it did retain the E prefix with ScotRail. The SO is probably 4263 as this was coupled to the BSO at Fort William with 3 other SO's a few days later along with black five 44767

https://www.flickr.com/photos/david_christie/albums/72157675308512066

 

Edited by w124bob
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9 hours ago, w124bob said:

Here is Maude with the "Glenfinnan Flyer"

 

 

20200118_113253-1.jpg

20200118_113354-1.jpg

20200118_113332-1.jpg

Thanks to Flickr I found the BSO id easliy and yes it did retain the E prefix with ScotRail. The SO is probably 4263 as this was coupled to the BSO at Fort William with 3 other SO's a few days later along with black five 44767

https://www.flickr.com/photos/david_christie/albums/72157675308512066

 

Very nice! The staining on the firebox is very good. I see you too have painted the wooden tool box. Have you done the red on the upright to the reach rod too? I'd suggest painting the cab window frames (tucked almost out of view at the rear of the aperture) in the same wood colour you used on the tool box. And please paint Hornby's awful shiny tyres! 

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Very nicely weathered .  I don't usually like weathering what I call showcase models , and for me Maude is one of them , but that weathering really lifts the model .

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Yes I did  paint  the vertical part of the reverser red, I see what you mean about the cabside window frames.  I should, is it actually a sliding shutter? Also looking at pictures the raised framing around the caside opening  appears steel colour . Jobs still to do include etched cab number and splasher works plate (Narrow Planet) dirty the wheels and find a traction inspector figure.

Edited by w124bob
Narrow Planet added
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2 hours ago, w124bob said:

is it actually a sliding shutter? 

Yes. See photo below - if it ever loads... 

 

2 hours ago, w124bob said:

Also looking at pictures the raised framing around the caside opening  appears steel colour . 

Well spotted. It certainly does look like it in some views. 

P1370045.JPG

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After all the immaculate pics of Maude.

My own and one of a few on Alloa which of course will be appearing at Modelrail Scotland in February.

Looking forward to meeting with some familiar and perhaps some new faces at the show.

 

 Dave.

IMG_4194-3.jpg

IMG_4191-5.jpg

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Has anyone here yet re-liveried their J36 into the NE livery of WW2? I'm struggling to find a suitable candidate from the Yeadon Register.

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Posted (edited)

What do you mean by a suitable candidate? There are 8 photos of J36s in this livery in Yeadon. 

 

 

EDIT: in fact, every J36 is a suitable candidate: while some locos never received certain liveries, one livery that all received is wartime black with "NE". 

Edited by Daddyman

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1 hour ago, Daddyman said:

What do you mean by a suitable candidate? There are 8 photos of J36s in this livery in Yeadon. 

 

Yes indeed there is. My problem though is that the J36 I intend on getting re-liveried is a LNER 722 example which has the tender without the inner metal frame in it. The BR ones have this style of tender and looking at the 8 photos in Yeadon, they do as well but I maybe wrong unless yourself or anyone else can say  otherwise. If so then please do say as it would be immensely appreciated :)

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Posted (edited)

Ah, right, I catch your drift. Coal rails had been plated by the time of WW2. I've recently converted 722 for my dad into 1930s condition, and had to modify the coal rails as you say. There is a slight problem in that the upright supports for the rails are moulded on the rear of the rails (correctly), which would make it difficult to simply stick plating on the back of the rails. So you have to get rid of the uprights before doing the plating. Fortunately, Hornby's plastic is cooperative both to files and to Plastic Magic glue (for sticking the plasticard plating on). 

 

EDUIT: but wouldn't a BR base model be better anyway as it has no Westinghouse? Admittedly, you'd have to remove the front number plate - not an easy job, but not as big a pain as removing the lining from 722. Some of it came off as soon as I opened the thinners nearby, but lots of it needed more abrasive treatments; I ended up respraying the whole thing. 

20200401_190554_resized.jpg

Edited by Daddyman
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2 hours ago, Daddyman said:

Ah, right, I catch your drift. Coal rails had been plated by the time of WW2. I've recently converted 722 for my dad into 1930s condition, and had to modify the coal rails as you say. There is a slight problem in that the upright supports for the rails are moulded on the rear of the rails (correctly), which would make it difficult to simply stick plating on the back of the rails. So you have to get rid of the uprights before doing the plating. Fortunately, Hornby's plastic is cooperative both to files and to Plastic Magic glue (for sticking the plasticard plating on). 

 

EDUIT: but wouldn't a BR base model be better anyway as it has no Westinghouse? Admittedly, you'd have to remove the front number plate - not an easy job, but not as big a pain as removing the lining from 722. Some of it came off as soon as I opened the thinners nearby, but lots of it needed more abrasive treatments; I ended up respraying the whole thing. 

20200401_190554_resized.jpg

 

Thank you for your response Daddyman :) 

 

At the moment this is a longterm project so I can happily take my time (GWR Wartime Black, Green and LMS Black are ahead of the queue of repaints atm). Hopefully just a BR tender from the R3622 model may just turn up by itself at somepoint, otherwise I have dropped some emails around as well as a Wanted post on here as you never know.

 

At the moment, I'm just going to look at an example that has had the coal rails applied. Again thanks for the advice you have given me :)

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9 hours ago, Garethp8873 said:

 

Again thanks for the advice you have given me :)

Pleasure. 

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Good Evening

 

Following on from the excellent photos of the new Hornby J36 Class, I enclose a photo of my own locomotive shown on my uncompleted layout of Haymarket MPD.

 

In due course I am sure a second model will be purchased, a fabulous looking locomotive.

 

Regards

 

David

65311_IMG_0259B.jpg

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13 hours ago, landscapes said:

Good Evening

 

Following on from the excellent photos of the new Hornby J36 Class, I enclose a photo of my own locomotive shown on my uncompleted layout of Haymarket MPD.

 

In due course I am sure a second model will be purchased, a fabulous looking locomotive.

 

Regards

 

David

 

A very nicely turned out model, if I may say so. I see you have added a coupling to the front hook. I think the way it lies on the plough adds a beautiful little touch of detail. Hornby hasn’t included a hook with a coupler in the accessory bag, so that a separate packet of them needs to be bought. A pity. It’s only a little thing but I think it adds a lot to the appearance.

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It's an odd little detail. Looking at it I'd be inclined to question whether the plough would interfere with coupling up and indeed whether the coupling itself would be long enough to work when the plough was fitted

 

BUT

 

I have before me a photie of 65345 shunting at Seafield pit in March 1967 with a plough fitted and the coupling artlessly draped over it exactly as in David's splendid model

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Posted (edited)
16 hours ago, landscapes said:

In due course I am sure a second model will be purchased, a fabulous looking locomotive.

 

65311_IMG_0259B.jpg

 

For those interested Kernow Model Railway Centre have them for sale at £89.99. 

 

http://www.kernowmodelrailcentre.com/p/58740/R3622-WSL-Hornby-J36-Class-Steam-Locomotive-number-65311

 

I could not resist and ordered a second one. It's a stunning model. 

 

Cheers, 

 

Mark 

Edited by 46444
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1 hour ago, 46444 said:

 

For those interested Kernow Model Railway Centre have them for sale at £89.99. 

 

http://www.kernowmodelrailcentre.com/p/58740/R3622-WSL-Hornby-J36-Class-Steam-Locomotive-number-65311

 

I could not resist and ordered a second one. It's a stunning model. 

 

Cheers, 

 

Mark 

Hi

 

Thank you all for the kind positive comments.

 

I totally agree with you Mark the J36 is a stunning model and like you I am very tempted to purchase a second one especially now as they are at such a good price.

 

But there are the Hornby A2/2's and A2/3's on the way at the end of the year and I would like very much to obtain some of them so I will be patient for thew time being.

 

Regards

 

David

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Just had my Maude out of the box for the first time.

Lovely loco especially after a bit of running in. slight sheen on the smokebox door where the damn packaging was pressing too hard. And tender back handrail needs gluing on at one end (and my loctite is out of date/gone off)

 

One bit of running plate lining on RHS (not vac pipe side) has a small gap. Was going to touch it up with cream paint. Any advice on colour match? It does not need to be exact as it is a very small gap (and black gap shows up more than any touch up.

I think I have both BR and Pullman cream in stock, I suspect pullman is nearer...

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Posted (edited)

Hi all,

 

Having recently purchased my first two sound-fitted locomotives from Roco and Piko, I decided to give Hornby's TTS a try by retrofitting my LNER J36 with the TTS decoder and speaker kit. Obviously as a budget solution the quality of the audio files, the speaker and the decoder are not quite up to the same standard as ESU and Zimo kit, to put it mildly, but even installation proved to be a major headache. It turns out the J36 TTS kit wasn't particularly designed with the J36 in mind... I thought I'd share my experience for those thinking of doing the same, in case it can help. For those who don't want to read, "buy the TTS-fitted version" sums it up nicely:

 

- After taking off the tender body and unscrewing the DCC connector plate and weight, you find out there's nowhere near enough room for the speaker as supplied in the box.

- Following a bit of headscratching, you realise the speaker can be removed from its cylindrical plastic housing, but the instructions make no mention of that possibility.

- Having figured this out, you remove the speaker from the housing and pop it into the enclosure with the wires sticking out of one side, then screw the weight back on...

- You then notice the weight's forcing the speaker down, which in turn pushes down on the chassis and bends it downwards...

- After loosening the screws to remedy this, you screw the connecter plate back onto the weight

- This is when you realise that the wires from the tender pickup PCB (that sits below the speaker and weight) to the connecter plate (above them) have only a millimetre of play in them...

- So you remove the speaker to run the wires up to the connecter plate in different ways until you can screw it back on without snapping / stretching the wires

- Once that's done, you realise the metal back of the speaker is shorting out on the metal weight and causing your command station to cut out :banghead:

- So off you go to get the sellotape / electrical tape / insulation of some sort and stick it over the back of the speaker (after removing everything you've just screwed back together)

- Once that's done, you check the decoder is responding and sit back, happy that all is now well in the world.

- You now wrap the decoder in suitable insulation, as is good practice.

- You think you're being smart by wrapping up the excess wire with the decoder, then realise the bundle is way too thick to put the tender body back on

- So you start again, this time wrapping only the decoder and not the wires.

- You then spend half an hour trying to reposition the decoder and wires until they allow you to put the body back on properly, snapping and losing a lamp iron in the process.

- Finally you decide to make do with a tender body that's more or less snug on the chassis but not quite, with a nice gap all the way along both sides.

- You then turn the sound volume down to 1 or 2 because it's too loud, and disable half of the six or seven whistle sounds (personal preference)

- And activate DC running which is disabled by default (already covered here I believe)

 

On second thoughts, I'm not surprised Hornby didn't want to write instructions beyond "plug it into the socket". I can't say this has made me particularly enthusiastic about retrofitting TTS to my other locomotives...

 

Still, it's a lovely little machine (photographed before its "operation")

image-01.jpeg.9edca20311bb4ad793eb03c4edc053e9.jpeg

 

Alan

 

 

 

Edited by jivebunny
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