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Class 66 in OO Gauge - New Announcement


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On 24/11/2020 at 11:34, dave56 said:

So at the reduced price I bit the bullet and brought a new class 66 in DB red. Everything is good apart from the axle boxes, no matter how many times I tried to glue the central boxes on each bogie, they would keep on displacing. The inner and outside axles were fine after a touch of super glue on two of them which were loose. 

I followed what others suggested and cut the backs off and glued in place , everything is now working perfectly and the the loco is extremely smooth. 

 

On a positive note, there are some good ones available.

 

I took delivery of £119 FL 66957 yesterday.  Was very apprehensive when opening the box.  Locomotive was pristine, all ABs were centred correctly, all wheels grounded on flat surface, and test run was fine - no wobble!!

 

Perhaps I've been fortunate. Certainly not smug, just relieved - as I may get another.  No doubt the ABs will work loose at some point.  Is there a stock part number for them?

 

 

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On 24/11/2020 at 08:53, Johnfromoz said:

If your puzzled. Look at it this way. Despite the fixes discussed here I am unconvinced  that in the long (That is long term) they will not  work themselves loose due to poor engineering design (short axles) .   I have no desire to be chasing down tiny axle box caps around the layout in future years, no doubt long after the spares become unavailable.

 

As I said before, your view may differ.

I agree. I have joined the fixed axlebox group for my EWS and Freightliner models, as like you, I don't consider any of the fixes to be long term solutions. The problem is that the locating spigot at the axle end, is too short to allow a tight and straight fit into the axlebox shaft. As the axleboxes move within the bogie sideframe, they are susceptible to pressure when fully extended. Ideally the spigot needs to be about 4mm or more and the locating hole should be a tighter fit. I'd also prefer a cast metal axlebox and locating shaft.

Edited by rembrow
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I knew my luck would have to run out at my 3rd 66 loco, as previously mentioned purchased 66783 Biffa (full price) with sound brand new but unfortunately it may have to go back, what's worse it was the last one so won't be a direct swap with another new one.

Anyway, issues as follows;

No.1 end cab light doesn't come on but has the switching on sound, daytime/night-time running lights ok

No.2 end cab light works with sound, daytime running lights ok but night-time running lights don't work as intended (headlight doesn't come on, just the 3 markers).

 

Underbody switches checked and contrary to instructions there are only 2 and not 3 switches and are set correctly.

I haven't taken the body off to check the main switches on the board but would think if these weren't set correctly at the factory none of the lighting/cab lighting functions would work unless I'm mistaken and corrected by someone who knows what K1 to K6 control and whether my issues above would be caused by these not being set correctly. 

Any advice or feedback is most welcome.

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6 hours ago, classy52 said:

I haven't taken the body off to check the main switches on the board but would think if these weren't set correctly at the factory none of the lighting/cab lighting functions would work unless I'm mistaken and corrected by someone who knows what K1 to K6 control and whether my issues above would be caused by these not being set correctly. 

Any advice or feedback is most welcome.

 

I've three factory-fitted sound models and none of the inside switches were set correctly straight out of the box.  So it might just be worth looking inside before returning... 

 

Al

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Looks like some are starting to fully sell out... (in all forms DC, DCC and Sound)

 

66-001 shows 2 left EWS 66005 (more than 10 a few days back)

66-015 66513 Freightliner sold out

 

A quick sort on their site shows Biffa, Kingmoor, Royal Scotsman and Freightliner ones seem to be at the lower end of stock too.


in absence of my annual big spend at Warley, ive bought 66’s instead. This weekend i’ll start checking the rather large box i have.

 

 

 

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6 hours ago, YesTor said:

 

I've three factory-fitted sound models and none of the inside switches were set correctly straight out of the box.  So it might just be worth looking inside before returning... 

 

Al

 

I was afraid you were going to say that, the thought of taking off the body scares the crap out of me with all that fine detail.

Out of interest with your 3 sound models did any of them have the same issues as myself or did you experience different lighting issues?

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1 hour ago, classy52 said:

 

I was afraid you were going to say that, the thought of taking off the body scares the crap out of me with all that fine detail.

Out of interest with your 3 sound models did any of them have the same issues as myself or did you experience different lighting issues?

Take is slow and steady, taking the cab step handrails out of their holes and hooking them up as you lift the body and it is all ok - use some pieces of card or thin plastic.


Roy

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54 minutes ago, Roy Langridge said:

Take is slow and steady, taking the cab step handrails out of their holes and hooking them up as you lift the body and it is all ok - use some pieces of card or thin plastic.


Roy

 

There is a very good explanation (with pics) of how to refit the body using pieces of card to help the handrails slide over the chassis.

Somewhere waaaaay up thread

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7 minutes ago, newbryford said:

 

There is a very good explanation (with pics) of how to refit the body using pieces of card to help the handrails slide over the chassis.

Somewhere waaaaay up thread

 

To be honest, I found card refitting the body more of a hindrance. I just lower the body until the handrails are about to snag and then lift them over one at a time with tweezers.


Roy

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There here...

 

88CBBB62-9FF4-4B42-80D1-89E4E5CE6DC7.jpeg.165c76ecda99f05d61a65169d7dce4fd.jpeg

 

Already started on Biffa’ axleboxes. Its going to be a long weekend of axle box mods.. Having done a quick examination:

 

66-030 - Colas ...roof grill loose on one corner.

66-004 - EWS .. loose axleboxes, one seems a bit odd to the rest.

66-010 - DRS .. loose axleboxes

66-012 - DRS .. loose axleboxes & centre door steps off.

66-007 - DBS .. loose axleboxes, mark onhandrail

66-036 - G&W .. centre door steps loose


the-rest have passed visual inspection. None of these are game stoppers.


Nothing obvious missing, just minor, no blemishes, marks etc, no glue, so i’ll be keeping them, retro updating the axleboxes, with 3 more in the fleet.

Whilst I know several are righteous about perfection i’m a little more forgiving on loose bits, as long as everything is there undamaged i’m generally ok with it. I will be dumping my Bachmann class 66’s shortly, which at a 1:1 replacement will be not a too expensive an upgrade, on balance.
 

Theres no doubting the detailed improvement, weight and running characteristics of this model... it rides head and shoulders above.

 

 

 

Edited by adb968008
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56 minutes ago, adb968008 said:

There here...

 

88CBBB62-9FF4-4B42-80D1-89E4E5CE6DC7.jpeg.165c76ecda99f05d61a65169d7dce4fd.jpeg

 

Already started on Biffa’ axleboxes. Its going to be a long weekend of axle box mods.. Having done a quick examination:

 

66-030 - Colas ...roof grill loose on one corner.

66-004 - EWS .. loose axleboxes, one seems a bit odd to the rest.

66-010 - DRS .. loose axleboxes

66-012 - DRS .. loose axleboxes & centre door steps off.

66-007 - DBS .. loose axleboxes, mark onhandrail

66-036 - G&W .. centre door steps loose


the-rest have passed visual inspection. None of these are game stoppers.


Nothing obvious missing, just minor, no blemishes, marks etc, no glue, so i’ll be keeping them, retro updating the axleboxes, with 3 more in the fleet.

Whilst I know several are righteous about perfection i’m a little more forgiving on loose bits, as long as everything is there undamaged i’m generally ok with it. I will be dumping my Bachmann class 66’s shortly, which at a 1:1 replacement will be not a too expensive an upgrade, on balance.
 

Theres no doubting the detailed improvement, weight and running characteristics of this model... it rides head and shoulders above.

 

 

 

My god is that all from one delivery? 

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Decisions, decisions ... another gorgeous 66 arrived today, this time with 8 wonky axleboxes. Fix them, as I have all the others or join the 'opposition' and chop 'em up and glue the covers on the bogie frame? Son's for the former - "it'll keep you quiet for the weekend" while grandson for the latter - "grandpa, you're 78, do you think you have enough time left?" Hey-ho.

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1 hour ago, Edna Clouds said:

Decisions, decisions ... another gorgeous 66 arrived today, this time with 8 wonky axleboxes. Fix them, as I have all the others or join the 'opposition' and chop 'em up and glue the covers on the bogie frame? Son's for the former - "it'll keep you quiet for the weekend" while grandson for the latter - "grandpa, you're 78, do you think you have enough time left?" Hey-ho.


If a jobs worth doing, it’s worth doing properly. My Dad used to tell me that all the time as a young lad, and it is very true...

 

Roy

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15 hours ago, classy52 said:

Out of interest with your 3 sound models did any of them have the same issues as myself or did you experience different lighting issues?

 

Hmmmm, it's a while ago now and I can't quite recall if my issues were exactly the same as you have encountered, but yes, something certainly wasn't lighting up as expected...   A quick removal of the body and it became immediately clear that the switches were set as per a DC only model, ie. all six set 'up' (K1–K6), whereas K3 & K6 should be 'down' as shown in the instruction manual.

 

Top model:  DC only

Lower model:  DCC sound

 

66 chip non-chip.jpg

 

Best

Al 

Edited by YesTor
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On 21/11/2020 at 18:14, Roy Langridge said:

Even an EM2 was fairly straightforward. I just had to undo one if the small PCBs to untangle the wires to give room to get it in. 
 

Roy

The fitting of a ESU Sound Decoder & EM2 Speaker is dead easy:

1/ Removethe Bodyshell (Thats the fiddly bit !!!!)

2/ Tuck EM2 Speaker under the wires, in the space provided (some wires are tighter than others)

3/ Plug in 21Pin MKL Decoder (Legomanbiffo Sounds with correct lighting features).

 

 

THATS IT!

 

The Functions on the decoder are below:

F0 Light Engine Mode (Selects Directional Lights & Loco Brake Sounds). 

Function Key Layout for ESU/LOKSOUND V5 Sound Decoders.

F0 Light Engine Mode (Selects Directional Lights & Loco Brake Sounds). 

F1 Engine On/Off.                                                                                                           CV259-128   CV419-50

F2 Playable High Horn (Original or later versions).                                                  CV435-128

F3 Playable Low Horn  (Original or later versions).                                                  CV443-128

F4 Buffer clash when moving,coupling hook when stationary (New Sounds).   CV283-128

F5 Manual brake application (when moving) / Brake dump (when stationary). CV291-80

F6 Driver's door slam (Random Slams).                                                                     CV299-128

F7 Compressor speed-up.                                                                                   

F8 DriveLock (Drive Hold).                                                                                            CV267-0

F9 Variable speed flange squeal (speed dependant).                                              CV323-128

F10 Despatch Whistle                                                                                                    CV331-128

F11 RETB Token Request & Optional reply.                                                               CV339-50

F12 Automatic cooler group fans.                                                                               CV347-128

F13 Sanders.                                                                                                                   CV355-128

F14 Radar Hiss.                                                                                                              CV363-128

F15 Spirax Valves

F16 Automatic Compressor Speed Up.

F17 Windscreen Wash/Wipe.                                                                                      CV387-128

F18 Detonators (Speed Dependant, three bang stop)                                           CV395-128

F19 Auto Fade Cab Lights.                                                                                          CV427-128

F20.Train Mode: (Disables tail lights & selects train brake sounds.

F21.Parking Mode (Lights)

F22.Night Running Road.

F27.Battery Isolator Switch close (Optional) & Cab start up.                                CV467-128

F28.Cab shut down & Battery isolator switch open (Optional)                            CV475-128

USER CHANGEABLE ADVANCED FEATURES:

CV155=0 Original Horns.

CV155=1 Alternative Original Horns.

CV155=2 Later Quieter Horns.

……………………………………….

CV156=0 Original Spirax Valves.

CV156=1 Euro Style Spirax Valves.

………………………………………..

CV157=0 For loco’s with priming pumps.

CV157=1 For loco’s without priming pumps.

V5 Helpsheet notes, including exclusive features

 

These are available, see:  https://www.dckits-devideos.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=68&product_id=1639

 

I think you will agree when listening to the sound project fitted it this superb model, the speaker/sound combination is one of the best sound on the digital market.

 

Honestly, its really good.

 

Charlie

 

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8 hours ago, YesTor said:

 

Hmmmm, it's a while ago now and I can't quite recall if my issues were exactly the same as you have encountered, but yes, something certainly wasn't lighting up as expected...   A quick removal of the body and it became immediately clear that the switches were set as per a DC only model, ie. all six set 'up' (K1–K6), whereas K3 & K6 should be 'down' as shown in the instruction manual.

 

Top model:  DC only

Lower model:  DCC sound

 

66 chip non-chip.jpg

 

Best

Al 

 

Thanks Al.

 

I removed the body last night which was a minor miracle as only 1 step came off which I glued back on but there was another small miracle later on when I put the body back on with all detail pipes & steps remaining on the body shell...too funny.

I found cutting up small pieces of white card and positioning all 4 pieces in the region of the the steps and body notches worked well getting the body back on without losing any of the detail, better than using credit cards with this experience. 

Ok the switches were set correctly and had a look at all the wiring and the soldered contacts which appeared to be ok so nothing looking untoward and found bits of tape randomly placed which didn't seem to make any sense but apart from that all looked normal, gave the contact pads a clean at each end as well.

Unfortunately after putting the body back on the lighting issues still remain thus will be giving Hattons a call for it to be returned but I actually would like them to try and fix it if possible because I don't actually want to lose this loco since it has been sold out with sound, hopefully they can have a go otherwise it will be a refund which I want to avoid.

Edited by classy52
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On 26/11/2020 at 15:55, adb968008 said:

There here...

 

88CBBB62-9FF4-4B42-80D1-89E4E5CE6DC7.jpeg.165c76ecda99f05d61a65169d7dce4fd.jpeg

 

Already started on Biffa’ axleboxes. Its going to be a long weekend of axle box mods.. Having done a quick examination:

 

66-030 - Colas ...roof grill loose on one corner.

66-004 - EWS .. loose axleboxes, one seems a bit odd to the rest.

66-010 - DRS .. loose axleboxes

66-012 - DRS .. loose axleboxes & centre door steps off.

66-007 - DBS .. loose axleboxes, mark onhandrail

66-036 - G&W .. centre door steps loose


the-rest have passed visual inspection. None of these are game stoppers.


Nothing obvious missing, just minor, no blemishes, marks etc, no glue, so i’ll be keeping them, retro updating the axleboxes, with 3 more in the fleet.

Whilst I know several are righteous about perfection i’m a little more forgiving on loose bits, as long as everything is there undamaged i’m generally ok with it. I will be dumping my Bachmann class 66’s shortly, which at a 1:1 replacement will be not a too expensive an upgrade, on balance.
 

Theres no doubting the detailed improvement, weight and running characteristics of this model... it rides head and shoulders above.

 

 

 

Do I spy a DB red one in there? If so and you will be 'dumping' a Bachmann equivalent I might be interested.

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9 minutes ago, Marcoblanco said:

how far off are we from the next batch?

no Gremlin puns intended!! 

 

I wondered that as soon as I saw the old lot on sale.

Hattons have invested a lot in the tooling. Surely they will want value for this & sooner rather than later?

 

Don't expect them to announce anything early though. They tried this with the first batch.

When unexpected issues delayed them it illustrated why manufacturers don't like to make their developments too public too soon.

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