Theakerr Posted October 16, 2020 Share Posted October 16, 2020 Happy with mine, especially at the price i paid for it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
montyburns56 Posted July 30, 2021 Share Posted July 30, 2021 D5901 at Kings Cross 1969 by KDH Archive 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hodgson Posted July 30, 2021 Share Posted July 30, 2021 Interesting speed limits signs in that shot too - they were usually a multiple of 5 mph. 15B referred to B route (one of the lines through Gasworks Tunnel) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoarCrossovers Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 As promised 4 years ago, I finally got around to picking up one of these, D5901 to be specific. However, the factory-molded detailing is getting in the way when I add the couplings and causes the wheels to jump off at the corners. The instructions do suggest cutting away the detailing to make space, but give no indication to how much I need to remove to order to prevent the coupling swing from derailing the loco. Any advice? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 Just now, MoarCrossovers said: As promised 4 years ago, I finally got around to picking up one of these, D5901 to be specific. However, the factory-molded detailing is getting in the way when I add the couplings and causes the wheels to jump off at the corners. The instructions do suggest cutting away the detailing to make space, but give no indication to how much I need to remove to order to prevent the coupling swing from derailing the loco. Any advice? Without wishing to state the obvious(?), anything that gets in the way when you swivel the bogie on a shiny surface, such as you illustrate. CJI. 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernman46 Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 (edited) Bend a small paperclip and try to push out the pipes / coupling etc from the rear - it may need a spot of PLASTIC FRIENDLY lubricant (mine did) definitely NOT WD-40 - support the loco properly whilst doing it - take your time. I took out just the vac pipe, steam pipe and coupling , the small air pipes & MU cable are flexible enough to stay put - if you're not bothered about keeping the coupling intact then just cut it below the top link - that will suffice. Edited February 28 by Southernman46 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Roy Langridge Posted February 29 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 29 On 28/02/2024 at 15:11, MoarCrossovers said: As promised 4 years ago, I finally got around to picking up one of these, D5901 to be specific. However, the factory-molded detailing is getting in the way when I add the couplings and causes the wheels to jump off at the corners. The instructions do suggest cutting away the detailing to make space, but give no indication to how much I need to remove to order to prevent the coupling swing from derailing the loco. Any advice? How much you need to remove depends entirely on the radius of your curves. Remove a little at a time checking against your track. If you have track cutters, they can do quite a neat job of cutting off little bits at a time. Roy 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewartingram Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 (edited) Throw the supplied couplings away; replace them with a wire loop, inserted through holes in the bufferbeam, and araldited behind. the coupling on the coach will hook onto the new loop. Edited March 1 by stewartingram 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 For the same reason my passenger locos are getting body mounted Kadee. We so need better couplings and scale height mounting options to be adopted in 4mm, enough of this bodgery with a long obsolescent coupler design and HO derived coupler pocket height. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSpencer Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 On 28/02/2024 at 16:11, MoarCrossovers said: As promised 4 years ago, I finally got around to picking up one of these, D5901 to be specific. However, the factory-molded detailing is getting in the way when I add the couplings and causes the wheels to jump off at the corners. The instructions do suggest cutting away the detailing to make space, but give no indication to how much I need to remove to order to prevent the coupling swing from derailing the loco. Any advice? I fitted buckeyes (the longest ones, number 20 I believe) to mine avoid snipping off stuff. Then use a convertor vehicle. (I do this a lot with Heljan). 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter749 Posted April 6 Share Posted April 6 (edited) Having recently pick up a second hand Class 23 at Doncaster Model show and fitted a DCC Chip I notice the Tail Lights are on when the head lights are on. Is there a way to stop this from happening? Thanks Peter Edited April 6 by Peter749 class Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Kaput Posted April 6 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 6 10 minutes ago, Peter749 said: Having recently pick up a second hand Class 23 at Doncaster Model show and fitted a DCC Chip I notice the Tail Lights are on when the head lights are on. Is there a way to stop this from happening? Thanks Peter Nope, the Baby Deltic models are 8pin and predate independant lights. Would require rewiring to have separate control of the tail lights although it might be possible to just unplug them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter749 Posted April 6 Share Posted April 6 1 minute ago, Kaput said: Nope, the Baby Deltic models are 8pin and predate independant lights. Would require rewiring to have separate control of the tail lights although it might be possible to just unplug them. Thanks, I will look at unpluging the lights at one end. My layout is like a Dogbone and I just run the locos with the Front (DCC) leading so I remove the couplings at that end and the inner end is dark. Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now