ess1uk Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 looking the part, good work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rammy Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 Work continues on the grassy bank at the container storage end. Paper mâché added and painted green Hanging basket liner glued down and left to dry before removing the backing: One of the panels has been left loose in this area to create an access panel as this is where the point motor wiring will lead to switched on the back panel. The hanging basket liner grass does a good job of disguising the join: Lichen and a few Hornby tress are then added (not fixed yet) to fill in and take the plainness off the grass bank: I will need some more substantial trees in this area to give it some height, but I'm happy so far. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class"66" Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Coming along great!! nice to have good mixs of scenery... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
d winpenny Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 Looks smart David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rammy Posted June 30, 2013 Author Share Posted June 30, 2013 I have made the most of the good weather today and roped in my daughter again to assist with the making of some trees. I had been saving grape stalks a while ago and had forgotten about them until yesterday when I sorted through my tubs of bits. So out they came today, applied PVA glue and some scatter, and I think they have turned out ok for almost free trees. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 Nice trees Dave, and not only are they cheep but good for the digestive system as well. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
d winpenny Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Looking good great idea for the trees David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class"66" Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 Realy starting to take shape!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
7APT7 Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 Hi Dave Great looking tree's mate... looking really good... Jamie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Kazmierczak Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 Dave, Don't know if this photo is of interest showing the rear of the depot. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rammy Posted July 8, 2013 Author Share Posted July 8, 2013 That's great - many thanks. Any pictures always appreciated, but that one is especially great as it shows an angle I haven't had before. Those locos really are close to the back of the fuelling shed aren't they. I was worried when I was looking at my layout that I hadn't left enough room, but it doesn't look like I need to. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rammy Posted July 16, 2013 Author Share Posted July 16, 2013 I grabbed a little time in the shed over the weekend and tonight and decided it was about time I thought about installing the point motors. Yes I know I really should have done this before I started the ballasting, etc but I just got carried away before and forgot! Anyway, I have some Seep motors left over from my Chadwood layout, a new CDU kit which I have built, and a spare 12V power supply. However after installing the first point motor and fiddling around for ages in this heat, I have discovered the point motors will not flick across. The just don't seem to have enough force. I have tried changing the power supply and using the 15V AUX output on the Elite controller in case 12V wasn't enough, but this still didn't work. I swapped the CDU over to the one I had used succesfully on Chadwood - still no joy. I have made sure there is no ballast or anything obstructing the point operation and have even tried the whole setup on the next point but with the same results. It seems as though the springs on the Peco points are just too strong. Has anybody else had similar problems or have any ideas? After thinking I may get somewhere tonight, I have just come away thoroughly frustrated. Any help would be appreciated folks! Many thanks Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted July 16, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 16, 2013 I've powered CDU's (Gaugemaster) from 24vAC before now. That gives them a good kick. However, I would always go for Peco motors directly connected to Peco points. I have a simple method for filling the gaping hole, but unfortunately, that's too late for you now...... Use the mounting bases. Cheers, Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdw7300 Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 Hi Dave. I've used SEEP PM1's with a Gaugemaster CDU powered by the 15v AC output from my controller. Some motors are wired together so one switch fires two points. I've not had a problem with this setup. Cheers Sam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rammy Posted July 17, 2013 Author Share Posted July 17, 2013 I did a little more experimenting tonight to find a solution to this problem. I built a mock up with a spare off cut of board and fitted a spare point on top. Not surprisingly I got the same result - the point did not flick across. At least this proved that it wasn't a problem with the ballasting or painting I had done. After a bit of playing around, I have finally found a solution. I have removed the spring built into the Peco point. The motor then works perfectly. So after all that, the motor didn't have enough power to throw the point due to the spring. The motor seems to hold the point one way or the other without the spring, so hopefully things should be ok. Has anybody else had to do this? I will experiment with a larger power supply when I find one, but if not then the may e the way forward. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Kazmierczak Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 Dave, sometimes lorries park up on the bridge (despite the double yellow lines) so that might be something you want to add too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rammy Posted July 20, 2013 Author Share Posted July 20, 2013 I managed to get hold of an old 19V laptop power supply yesterday from work and tried it today. It throws the points much better and think it will allow me to leave the springs in after all. Oh well, you live and learn! On a separate note, I have spent the afternoon playing Train Simulator 2013 after downloading it for the bargain price of £6.99 off Steam. Its a one day only price, so hurry up and get it if anybody else wants it. The Class 66 is on offer too so I may have to download that add-on too! Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class"66" Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 Good bridge for snapping photos!!! been there few times during work... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rammy Posted November 17, 2013 Author Share Posted November 17, 2013 Wow, is it really nearly 4 months since I last touched my layout? I have been rather distracted over the summer with DIY around the house and enjoying what seemed to be a fairly good summer weather wise. I also got distracted by finally treating myself and buying a RepRapPro Mendel 3D printer kit. Much to my surprise, after a few teething problems, I have got it printing really well and reliably. Not sure it will be much use for railway modelling but I am enjoying using it for other things. Anyway, today I decided it was time to get on with some railway modelling so I had a quick visit to the shed to decide what needed doing next. I chose to make a start on the refuelling point. Thanks to photos that you guys had previously posted I have a reasonable idea of what it should look like. I bought some Wills box profile quite a while ago for this project and I also have a few packs of Evergreen I-beams. What I wasn't sure about when I had previously thought about doing this was how I would model the 2 large green tanks. So now this has been made easier! After a short while on Sketchup the tanks where modelled and sent to the 3D printer. Sizes are all a bit of a guess, but they seem to match the photos about right. Now to start some gluing and painting, as well as keeping the momentum going to finally move my layout along. Thanks for looking Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beresford Junction Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 Welcome back Dave and the fueling point looks good. Very impressive 3d printer, but I can't quite gauge the scale, how large is it? Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium GWRPhil Posted November 17, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 17, 2013 How big an object can you print on it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ess1uk Posted November 17, 2013 Share Posted November 17, 2013 Welcome back Dave and the fueling point looks good. Very impressive 3d printer, but I can't quite gauge the scale, how large is it? Phil Me too. At first glance I thought the printer was some kind of running machine! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rammy Posted November 17, 2013 Author Share Posted November 17, 2013 lol Sorry guys, that probably wasn't the best photo to give you an idea of scale. Try this one of it in place on the Utility room worktop: It prints around a 150mm cube maximum. Plenty big enough for anything I want to do with it at the moment. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class"66" Posted November 18, 2013 Share Posted November 18, 2013 More nice work Rammy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium GWRPhil Posted November 18, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 18, 2013 That's a very cool piece of kit. Size of object good too. Would be too small for my idea of what I'd like 3d printed, I'm thinking of at some point starting an n gauge layout of ribblehead station and viaduct at scale. I'd love to 3d print ribblehead viaduct but at 8.5 foot approx in n that would be some 3d printer needed to do it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.