Hornby 2 BIL

[Ian Abel]

Well, the decoder arrived and it honestly is "quite easy" to get the body off the chassis and install the deocder - certainly far less fraught with terror than doing the same exercise on my Bachmann 4-CEP!!

 

Runs lovely, and looks great;

I'll have to see about lighting it, would love the route indicator lit and the interior also...and heavens the TCS DP2X-UK has two functions on it, so it'd be a ptiy to waste them!

 

I only have one complaint - I NOW NEED ANOTHER ONE - definately should be run in pairs    

[Purley Oaks]

Well, the decoder arrived and it honestly is "quite easy" to get the body off the chassis and install the deocder - certainly far less fraught with terror than doing the same exercise on my Bachmann 4-CEP!!

I only have one complaint - I NOW NEED ANOTHER ONE - definately should be run in pairs    

Glad yours arrived safely, Ian - could always wait for a 2Hal instead...

Mal

[andyman7]

Mine's here too, fortunately I already had R3162 so I've pair of units now  . 

[Ian Hargrave]

Well, the decoder arrived and it honestly is "quite easy" to get the body off the chassis and install the deocder - certainly far less fraught with terror than doing the same exercise on my Bachmann 4-CEP!!

 

Runs lovely, and looks great;

I'll have to see about lighting it, would love the route indicator lit and the interior also...and heavens the TCS DP2X-UK has two functions on it, so it'd be a ptiy to waste them!

 

I only have one complaint - I NOW NEED ANOTHER ONE - definately should be run

Now what did I tell you ?All the best MU's run in multiple.....it's what they do best.

[Gwiwer]

 

 

All the best MU's run in multiple.....it's what they do best.

 

Many a 2Bil service was worked by a single unit.  Alton / Portsmouth & Southsea stoppers (after the two had split at Woking), coastal trains both sides of Brighton, Mid-Sussex trains south of Gatwick, Guildford - Ascot, Horsted Keynes - Seaford .........

 

I'm waiting to see what the blue one looks like and whether the green is improved on the FYE version; I'm not very convinced by that on the first release.  And then there's the 2Hal units allegedly not so far away so perhaps I need a green Hal  and a blue Bil ...... but where to run them?

Edited June 18, 2014 by Gwiwer

[Ian Abel]

Many a 2Bil service was worked by a single unit.  Alton / Portsmouth & Southsea stoppers (after the two had split at Woking), coastal trains both sides of Brighton, Mid-Sussex trains south of Gatwick, Ardingly - Seaford .........

 

I'm waiting to see what the blue one looks like and whether the green is improved on the FYE version; I'm not very convinced by that on the first release.  And then there's the 2Hal units allegedly not so far away so perhaps I need a green Hal  and a blue Bil ...... but where to run them?

Indeed Rick, however I'm "attempting" to model a ficticious semblance of the trains I grew up with... at Weybridge they were seldom seen in less than 4.

Occasionally, the Weybridge-Waterloo loop service via Chertsey etc., would be a 2-car but even they were usually 4. So I guess I "need" another one!

That's my story anyway. Now if only Hornby or Bachmann would do a pucker 4-COR (and a 4-RES too!!!)  I'd be really in business!!! Can't manage the thought or cost involved in a kit built set, and we'd need 8 cars for sure <sigh>  

Edited June 18, 2014 by Ian Abel

[Gwiwer]

The 4Cor has been suggested.  The existence of one to scan has been flagged.  The response has been total silence.

[autocoach]

1939 4 Subs in multiple numbers  so I can do my Victoria - Orpington 8 coach trains that stopped at Penge (East) down Mosslea Road from my grandparents home.

[Ian Abel]

Yeah, 4-SUBs too...they were seen a lot through Weybridge, I'd prefer a 4-COR but either would be a great addition for RTR

[Oldddudders]

Whilst a 4COR would be fantastic, the Northerner in me wants some 25kv EMUs.. we have many in 3rd rail already.

We come back to the electric string issue, I think, and a manufacturer fear that without the string in RTR form 25kv EMUs sell in limited quantities. And I do think that there have been far more third rail EMU types than 25kv, not least because they've been in service for more than a century! When times are hard as now Hornby needs to ensure every product hits the retail spot.

[finelines]

I am cross! I am returning to the subject if the thread. All this talk about "design clever put me off buying one of the iconic nostalgic trains of my childhood. I have recently looking at memories of Redhill and I thought perhaps I should get one. Somebody here mentioned a special offer and I bought one. It is superb! There may be small errors, but they don't stop it "being" a 2-BIL.

 

Roger

[SRman]

I agree, adb968008. With variations on front ends, you could also include classes 302 and 307 - then we are almost back to the Southern EPBs of classes 415/2 and 416/2 (the latter already produced by Bachmann), plus the HAPs/SAPs and CAPs (classes 413/414). Looked at in this way, there may be some hope for all those other EMU classes. There are many, many detail variations even within the classes but I am sure an enterprising manufacturer could cope with these.

 

The same reasoning could be applied to the more modern 'families' of EMUs. Classes 313-315 and 507/508 share many commonalities, as do classes 317-322 and 455, allowing for overhead and third rail versions (both, in the case of classes 313 and 319).

[Gwiwer]

While we are tossing ideas into the melting pot let's not overlook the unusual AM8/2 sets which included a motor luggage van apparently for the benefit of holiday traffic on the Southend line from Fenchurch Street.  Another tool and another variant but one often forgotten these days.

[Ian Hargrave]

For those of you still contemplating a purchase of one of these superb sets,Model Railways Direct have them on special offer.

R 3161A & R 3162A at £87.50 until 30 June.DCC versions too.

[Bulleidnutter]

Having received one of these for a birthday present over the weekend. First impressions were very good until I changed the direction on the controller. Its sounds almost as bad as the old pancake motors of Lima vintage. And horrible jerking with the trailer leading. I run DC. Hard wired the decoder and the jerking. Cured it. 

 

Upon inspection to see if the noisy gears could be rectified. The gears on the wheels are right handed teeth where as the reduction gear is left handed. By which the gears are always trying to straighten them selves out. 

 

I have noticed when a friend dismantled his 5BEL over the weekend that it has parallel teeth and it runs very smooth and incredibly quiet. Would sourcing a pair of 5BEL axles help? 

[toboldlygo]

Having received one of these for a birthday present over the weekend. First impressions were very good until I changed the direction on the controller. Its sounds almost as bad as the old pancake motors of Lima vintage. And horrible jerking with the trailer leading. I run DC. Hard wired the decoder and the jerking. Cured it. 

 

Upon inspection to see if the noisy gears could be rectified. The gears on the wheels are right handed teeth where as the reduction gear is left handed. By which the gears are always trying to straighten them selves out. 

 

I have noticed when a friend dismantled his 5BEL over the weekend that it has parallel teeth and it runs very smooth and incredibly quiet. Would sourcing a pair of 5BEL axles help? 

 

You could just have a slightly iffy one that needs a decent running in. I had a similar problem with the current Hornby 08 shunter that was both a noisy and jerky runner, about an hour at about 2/3rds speed around the layout cured it

[Ian Hargrave]

Having received one of these for a birthday present over the weekend. First impressions were very good until I changed the direction on the controller. Its sounds almost as bad as the old pancake motors of Lima vintage. And horrible jerking with the trailer leading. I run DC. Hard wired the decoder and the jerking. Cured it. 

 

Upon inspection to see if the noisy gears could be rectified. The gears on the wheels are right handed teeth where as the reduction gear is left handed. By which the gears are always trying to straighten them selves out. 

 

I have noticed when a friend dismantled his 5BEL over the weekend that it has parallel teeth and it runs very smooth and incredibly quiet. Would sourcing a pair of 5BEL axles help? 

Sounds like a common Hornby problem with the gear tower. Advice...see if Peters Spares has the part.

[toboldlygo]

Sounds like a common Hornby problem with the gear tower. Advice...see if Peters Spares has the part.

 

Service sheet number HSS-393 http://www.Hornby.com/downloads/view/download/item/408

 

Gears are part number X6577

 

And Peter Spares do have them in stock priced £1.40 per pair (plus postage)

Edited July 14, 2014 by toboldlygo

[Stevelewis]

Kernow  bargain   1  variant  of  the  2  BIL  only  £60.00

[John M Upton]

Apologies if this has already been covered but what number Kaydees has anyone used preferably plug in to the NEM pockets to put two units together?

[RFS]

It really is a question of how tight your curves are.  I started with number 18s but found I was getting derailments at some places, especially curved points (all mine are code 75).  So I've switched to number 19s instead and they're OK now. I would suggest a bit of trial and error on your own layout would be a good starting point.

[SRman]

Kadee 17 to 20 are the NEM plug-in ones - #17 are the shortest and #20 are the longest.

I mostly use #18s for coaching stock (perfect for Hornby Maunsells) but for the Bachmann 4 CEPs, MLVs, EPBs and 2H units, and Hornby 2 BILs, #20s are the go for the unit ends as the buffers are rigid (unless you have very gentle curves, in which case shorter Kadees will probably do).

 

For Bachmann DMUs of classes 105 and 108 I have found #18s or 19s will do the trick (sprung buffers help here).

 

For Sprinters, I have only linked class 150s in multiple, but #18s work within the units, except for class 168/170 units where the corridor connections get in the way. I cannot remember for sure what I used for the 150s at the outer ends; either #18 or #19 work. I am at work so the trains are not conveniently handy at the moment!

 

Sorry I have waffled on a bit but the more generalised answers may assist a few other people as well.

Edited August 3, 2014 by SRman

[John M Upton]

Many thanks.  I'll get a couple of pair of number 20's and see how things go.

[SRman]

Incidentally, if I am coupling within the units, I often cut off the dropper arms as I don't need to uncouple them automatically.
 

Clarification on my previous post: class 150s have power-conducting couplings within the units so I don't use Kadees for that. Likewise for the Bachmann EMUs.

[Andrew F]

Has anyone had all the glazing out of one of these and if so, does it come out easily enough to re-use? They're cheap enough to buy for re-paints and mucking about with.

 

Cheers

 

Andy