"Alcazar"...the build begins...but slowly.

[JeffP]

OK, this is by way of sort of advert for my build of LNER/BR Peppercorn A1 pacific, 60136, "Alcazar", from a David Andrews etched kit.
I'm still collecting parts for the kit, like a motor gearbox and some hornblocks, but have decided to get started on here as a way of giving myself a shove towards actually DOING something instead of just reading what others do, enjoyable though that is. Hopefully, the actual build will start soon.

I will begin by thanking all those whose threads on here have motivated me, those who have taken the time and trouble to answer my many and varied questions, and last but not least, Andy Y for allowing me back onto the forum after I disgraced myself at the first attempt...enough said.

The loco will be built to finescale 7mm to represent "Alcazar" as she was near the end of her life around 1962. I was lucky enough to see her regularly at Doncaster, by then her home shed, and even got a cab ride the length of the platform in 1963 just before she was withdrawn. She was a regular as the "standby" loco at Doncaster at this time.

"Alcazar" was built at Darlington in 1948, so lasted only a paltry 15 years in service.

So, onto the kit. I first purchased this on a whim after my first ever visit to Telford in September 2007. I spent a while examining a completed model and talking to Mr Andrews, before trying to buy one. I hadn't got my chequebook and Mr Andrews wasn't able to take a card payment at the show, so the kit had to await the next week and the vagaries of the Post office.
It eventually had to be collected from the local sorting office, after being advised to check there by Mr Andrews, (even though they hadn't left a card), I finally took possession of it about ten days after ordering, although it had been sent almost by return.

The kit has remained in storage since that date, with the addition of various parts, more of which later.

So, what do you get for your money?

The kit comes in a strong carboard box. There are two sets of brass etchings, one for loco, one for tender, (Note: you can have the whole kit etched in nickel silver if you ask on ordering, it costs an extra 10% of the kit price, which is, at present, £359.)
The boiler comes pre-rolled:





In the above you also see the 23 page instructions for the loco, the tender instructions are a further 9 pages. Both include written and diagram instructions, and are as good as any I've seen in 4mm.
(Can I also take this chance to apologise for the lurid purple background which I'll change once the build gets under way. It's an old bedsheet and about all I have of the right size. Sorry.)

Then there are the nickel silver etches:



And finally the tender etches:



You also get 3 bags of VERY nice brass castings, one of turned brass parts, one of VERY nice nickel silver castings and four of lovely white metal castings, plus some bits of rod and wire I haven't shown:



The last two pics show the Slater's wheelset, one of which is out of it's packet for a play, and some extra parts I bought cheap at a show: a set of Slater's LNER buffers, (although the kit includes buffers), some "washer" wheel spacers and a set of Slater's plunger pickups.:



Apolgies for the poor last two pics, I tried to do it without flash.

That's it for now.

In closing, I'd like to thank David Andrews for his prompt and FREE exchange of the tender sides and rear etchings, since I originally bought the kit to model 60116, which was a Doncaster built loco, and as such, carried the riveted tender. "Alcazar"'s is flush. (When ordering the kit, you have to decide which loco, and thus, which type of tender).
I should also mention that I obtained permission from David to show photos of the etches, not wishing to fall foul of copyrights.

One last thing: I haven't any plates yet, either. I DID have a nice set, but the manufacturer declined to exchange them, (for which I do NOT blame him, but you can only ask...), so they went on ebay, the money received will go towards a set for "Alcazar" when I get round to it.

I have bought two images of the loco around that time, from RCTS. They are on a DVD, along with three others (60514, 60113 and 60071), and can be massively zoomed.
I have shown links to them, rather than put them on here, so as not to infringe their copyright:

http://www.rcts.org.uk/features/archive/image.htm?img=HU00440&jpg=HU/HU00440.jpg&srch=&page=1
http://www.rcts.org.uk/features/archive/image.htm?img=CRA0502&jpg=CRA0502.jpg&srch=&page=75

They show both sides of the loco around the time I want to model it, and are excellent.

More once I decide on what to do about hornblocks, I have some Martin Finney ones I must dig out and examine.

[steve fay]

Look forward to seeing this take shape. Out of the LNER Pacifics I think the A1s look the best.

[JeffP]

Better than an A4? Better get your flame-proof suit out, Steve...... LOL

[The Nth Degree]

Finally! Good luck with this, I'll be following with interest. I'm still hankering after that MMP 31 you've got gathering dust in the cupboard!

Steve

[dikitriki]

Hi Jeff

 

I have been wondering when you would get round to posting a build. Certainly a lovely looking kit, as all of David's are.

 

I shall follow the build with interest.

 

Cheers

 

Richard

[TheGhostofNigelGresley]

Would it be fair to say you haven't rushed into this ?

 

Looking forward to watching how you get on as this kit is on my list.

 

Best of luck.

[Christian]

What a smashing looking kit, be nice to see you actually building something at last, lord knows you have been threatening us with a build for ages.

 

I shall greatly look forward to your progress on this one and expect regular updates everyday haha!

[JeffP]

Rushed into it...errr, no. LOL

 

What really worries me is the amount of replies I have to others' threads, others who are VERY good at what they do.......

 

I'll probably spend the weekend going through old posts to see who is likely to take me to task...first.....

 

If I can aspire to builds like Dikitiki and Christian, let alone Ozzy, I'll be doing well.

 

I've just dug out the Finney hornblocks and they are designed for beam compensation, which I don't really like. I shall now have to think about converting them for csb, or buying some WITH springs, Meteor ones maybe?

[TheGhostofNigelGresley]

Don't worry, there are plenty of us on here who are shite still learning, as well.

[BrushType4]

Looking forward to your seeing your build

 

I should also mention that I obtained permission from David to show photos of the etches, not wishing to fall foul of copyrights.

Very respectful of you to David, but you're not breaching any copyrights by not asking or getting permission if you do.

[JeffP]

Really? I would have thought that posting pics of the etchings in their raw state might infringe copyrights.

[BrushType4]

Nope. You're safe. Any plans to work on this over the weekend?

[PAD]

Hi Jeff, good luck with the build. The kit looks really impressive, so much so, that it might dissuade me from going for the Seven 9F for my next build after I finish the Duke of Gloucester. Look forward to seeing your posts on the build. What motor/gearbox are you going to put in? I have been really impressed with the ABC/Maxon and ABC/Canon combinations. Used the former in an A4 and the latter in a Black 5, both with excellent results. I think the Maxon motor is slighlty better so hope to get one of those for the Duke. Cheers, Peter

[JeffP]

No plans to work on it as yet, I'm awaiting funds for a motor/gearbox, probably the ABC/Canon, since I doubt the loco will ever do much more than shunt about, unfortunately.

 

I suppose I could get started and use the scale plans for the motor/gearbox that I have from MSC.

 

But I also need to come to some decision on the hornblocks: do I modify the Finney ones, buy some (VERY expensive) Meteor ones, use Slaters, or none of these?

[PAD]

Personally, I don't like hornblocks/springing as  I do not  believe it  improves the  running and  adds complexity. I am not overly keen on beam compensation which is  what is  on the  Duke but  I have gone  with it  for  now. The  beams  are  between the  middle and  rear drivers which I have  never  come accross before. If it gives any problems I think I can get  in with the  piercing  saw and  cut the  beam in front of  the  rear drivers. Before  I do that,  I'll solder the rear bearings with the  chassis on some  plate glass so that after cutting  the  beam, the  front  and  rear axles will be  fixed with the  middle  axle allowed some  up an down movement.  That is  my personal favoured approach which has  worked  well on all my  6 coupled builds.

[N15class]

I will watch with interest.

Go on make a start, you can get a long way before you need the motor. I did one where the motor was not fitted till final assembly after painting.

[dibateg]

I look forward to seeing progress Jeff! It's always interesting to see the etches laid out, now it's time to make that first cut......

 

Regards

 

Tony

[JeffP]

Which is, apparently, the deepest.......

[ozzyo]

Rushed into it...errr, no. LOL

If I can aspire to builds like Dikitiki and Christian, let alone Ozzy, I'll be doing well.

 

Hello JeffP,

 

first let me say thank you for the complement. I'm looking forward to watching  your build.

 

If I may give you a couple of pointers.

1) start with the tender, it will give you an idea of how the kit designer works.

2) if your thinking about csb the tender looks to be a good starting point. Four evenly spaced axles and a fairly even weight distribution.

3) I would always fit some sort of compensation on the loco (I prefer springs). You get better track holding and pick-up.

 

ATB

& the best of luck with your build,

 

OzzyO. 

[ozzyo]

Hello JeffP,

 

if your thinking about replacing the valve gear and rods with milled ones, you can get most of them from Premier components at the following prices.

Coupling rods (non jointed) £16.00

Coupling rods (jointed) £21.00

Connecting rods £14.00

Motion parts (this includes the connecting rods) £26.00

So for the whole sets it would be £42.00 for the non jointed rods

and for the whole sets it would be £47.00 with the jointed rods.

 

OzzyO.

[JeffP]

I have to say I've thought about milled valvegear and rods, but I've not see the Premier ones, so I'm not in a position to know if they are any better than what's with the kit. Easier, probably, but look better? Worth the nearly £50?

Plus I THINK their coupling rods are jointed on the wheel.....or as a lap joint, rather than forked.

 

So far, I have some Finney hornblocks, but they aren't particularly csb friendly, being designed for beam compensation. They would need modification. Or I could buy different hornblocks.

 

I also have no handrail knobs suitable for csb, and the local model shop has no brass angle, so everything is on hold.

 

And to be honest, this is what turned me OFF 4mm modelling, the need to either stock up, or wait ages for bits to arrive, so interrupting the build. Here. I haven't even started and I'm already on stop.......

[3 link]

 

 

I also have no handrail knobs suitable for csb, and the local model shop has no brass angle, so everything is on hold.

 

And to be honest, this is what turned me OFF 4mm modelling, the need to either stock up, or wait ages for bits to arrive, so interrupting the build. Here. I haven't even started and I'm already on stop.......

 

Hi Jeff,

 

There is nothing written in stone that says you have to use handrail knobs, you could use some scrap brass fret and make them into an L shape and drill a hole to the size you require, cheaper to .

 

So no more negative thoughts,  just go and fire up the soldering iron.

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

[Horsetan]

......And to be honest, this is what turned me OFF 4mm modelling, the need to either stock up, or wait ages for bits to arrive, so interrupting the build. Here. I haven't even started and I'm already on stop.......

 

Excuses, excuses......

[djparkins]

(Can I also take this chance to apologise for the lurid purple background which I'll change once the build gets under way. It's an old bedsheet and about all I have of the right size. Sorry.)

 

Jeff -

 

Those sheets look as if they might have come from a house of ill repute!

 

Best of luck with the build - I'm looking forward to this as I might invest in one myself.

 

Regards,

 

DJP

[JeffP]

Wow! Now I AM honoured.

 

I think I'm going to conatct Eileens for some L-section brass, mark out and make some bits and get going.

First job looks like the rods, then......

 

Edit: taken the plunge and ordered some "L" section from Eileen's, let's see how we get on. Last stuff I ordered from them arrived next day.

 

Just about to treat myself to some micro-fasteners from the USA, they are post free until 28th Feb.

 

Question: For springing for csb's, can I use WOUND guitar wire, or must it be plain? I'm sure I read somewhere that Adrian (Cherry??) had used 0.9mm wire to suspend a 7mm Jinty? I've asked at the local music store and theirs only goes up to 0.7mm plain. And they don't do piano wire.