Guest bri.s Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 The High Street John Ahern’s high street really intrigued me the way it curved round into the distance and was the inspiration for my high street. The buildings are based on those in the area around Kelso Square. Initial concept. 0.jpg How it turned out. 1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg 5.jpg 6.jpg Ollie. Love the way the street curves ,Excellent modelling , it's a very lovely scene well done Brian 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn T Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 Brilliant, I can really relate to that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
allan downes Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 Absolutely superb ! Only one ctiticism though. It's better than my effort 40 years ago ! Cheers. Allan. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbutty Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 Absolutely superb ! Only one ctiticism though. It's better than my effort 40 years ago ! Cheers. Allan. I find that hard to believe Allan! When I need a bit of inspiration I have a read at my photocopies of your early Railway Modeller articles. I have copied unashamedly your ideas and suggestions from these and your other articles. Plus you would finish ten high streets in the time it takes me to do one building. Thanks everybody for all you kind likes, etc. Ollie. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 Just visiting, as you do, by heck there's some crackin' stuff appearing in this thread ! Look out Allan they're coming after you !!! ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParkeNd Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 Railway Cottages at Parkend, Forest of Dean. N gauge as shown by the 20p piece. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
allan downes Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 Stunning ! At first I thought it was O gauge, but 2mm !! Impossible !!! Cheers. Allan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgman Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 Stunning ! At first I thought it was O gauge, but 2mm !! Impossible !!! Cheers. Allan Specavers 2 for one ! ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
milocomarty Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 Sometimes it's time to try something new, new roads or new techniques...never worked with styreen before so I did want to try this. Build a facade out of grey cardboard, painted with faller concrete paint, could use theWS topcoat too and a couple of washes with Vallejo modelwash..Doors and windows build from styreen, 0.5mm thick for te door with a build up from evergreen strip. Handle and hinges are tiny pieces of copper wire from a stranded cable.. 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
allan downes Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 Sometimes it's time to try something new, new roads or new techniques...never worked with styreen before so I did want to try this. Build a facade out of grey cardboard, painted with faller concrete paint, could use theWS topcoat too and a couple of washes with Vallejo modelwash..Doors and windows build from styreen, 0.5mm thick for te door with a build up from evergreen strip. Handle and hinges are tiny pieces of copper wire from a stranded cable.. Well, for a first time attempt that's amazing and I salute you sir ! Cheers. Allan. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
milocomarty Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 Thanks Allan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted December 23, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 23, 2015 Sometimes it's time to try something new, new roads or new techniques...never worked with styreen before so I did want to try this. Build a facade out of grey cardboard, painted with faller concrete paint, could use theWS topcoat too and a couple of washes with Vallejo modelwash..Doors and windows build from styreen, 0.5mm thick for te door with a build up from evergreen strip. Handle and hinges are tiny pieces of copper wire from a stranded cable.. Good effort that man. Couple of tips for you for working in plastic: If you glue items to one side of a sheet of plastic, the solvent used on that face has a tendency to make the plastic curl very slightly over time. It's worse with thinner plastic. To counter this folk either: glue plastic to the reverse side to equal out the curling; make the main structure out of a sturdy frame of odd numbered laminations; brace the structure when finished; or use the plastic as cosmetic finishes stuck to a plywood frame. Solvent is great for more than just fixing parts together. Once parts are stuck you can reapply the solvent to joins (particularly the thick Wills embossed sheet) and then manipulate the softened plastic to hide the join. You can also use it to add surface texture, such as 'wetting' the surface of a strip with solvent and then running your finger down it gives a wood effect. There are different grades of solvent and it's worth having a few types. At the slow, not very aggressive end you have Limonene which evaporates slowly and is great for bonding large areas together. You then have a variety of MEK types and Slaters seems to me less aggressive that Plastic Weld, the formulations do change though. You then also have Butanone which is aggressive and formulated for ABS type plastic. If you're making a box out of plastic, always drill a small hole or two on a non visible side to let the solvent vapour escape. This stops the vapour building inside the box and slowly melting it. I've had success using strong double- sided tape to fix plastic sheet together or to other materials. I've used the type meant to fix carpet tiles down. Hope some of this hard won experience helps you. The main thing is to keep experimenting with plasticard, I find it a wonderful material to work with. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
milocomarty Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 Thanks for the advices Chris..had to google limonene..glue with Revell proffesional and MEK from my paints supplier, guess its butanone.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbutty Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Watson's garage in situ. Ollie. 16 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
milocomarty Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 Well, bit more done after a coupple of days in the cold with a broken heater. Tried to add various rust patterns with various techniques. Painted rusttones with a piece of sponge, added rust washes and thinned acrylics with a brush. Finaly splattered thinned paint over a toothpick on the doors... They are ready know for some chipping medium and some color.. 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CourthsVeil Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 Now, where's this EXCELLENT button ??? Armin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bangor Lad Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Ditto Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
58herbie Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 This is my first scratch built building all be it low relief and first time working with a lot of the different materials. This is part of the back of the Victoria Hotel that stood at the end of the branch line at Holmfirth. It stood directly behind the turntable hidden only by a few tree's. A lot has had to be guesswork and using measurements from simular style buildings. As the hotel was demolished I'm awaiting more T section to finish the windows then onto guttering roof etc Jon 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alant Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 This is my first scratch built building all be it low relief and first time working with a lot of the different materials. This is part of the back of the Victoria Hotel that stood at the end of the branch line at Holmfirth. It stood directly behind the turntable hidden only by a few tree's. A lot has had to be guesswork and using measurements from simular style buildings. As the hotel was demolished I'm awaiting more T section to finish the windows then onto guttering roof etc Jon Looks like a great start Jon. Please keep us posted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
58herbie Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Thanks Alant. I will do. I am actually enjoying the architectural modeling side more than I thought I would Regards Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrushType4 Posted January 16, 2016 Share Posted January 16, 2016 (edited) A couple of buildings on the paint bench. Engine shed pre painting. Edited January 16, 2016 by BrushType4 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldGuysRule Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 (edited) Good Morning Chaps. I've recently returned to the hobby, threatening myself that its time I actually got off my backside and build a layout after collecting bits and bobs since the late 80's Still have my first train set that was purchased by my parents as a Christmas present, and I've been hoarding stuff since then. So, my first effort. I've taken the Hornby Diesel maintenance shed, which was purchased a number of years ago, and started making a few modifications. I have extended the floor front and rear, to be the length of the building now, and the two rear most windows have been blanked off on both sides to allow for an office building on the right side, and an additional smaller shed on the left to accommodate Class 08 size units. All construction was done with Plasticard, and finished off with various pieces from Scalescene products and Metcalfe Brickpaper as well as various scratchbuilt items. Ill take some better photos as I go along I've decided that i'd like to scratch build / modify the majority of the buildings etc for the layout, but we all know how that turns out All advice and comments heartily welcomed. Thanks Steve Edited January 18, 2016 by OldGuysRule Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrushType4 Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Another building ready for the paintshop. I really must get these finished! Three buildings due out any time. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
milocomarty Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Bit more work done on the door in this facade. After rusting the with airbrush, sponge, thinned paint and stippeling I added a layer of scratches medium followed by old white paint and started chipping. Finished it with a coat of satin clearcoat. After 24 hours drying I repeated the proces with a blue paint. Again 24 hours drying time and repeated wih chipping medium, a pale green and a quick dullcoat. Boy this Testors stuff smells..Some rusty accents added with various tones of pigments and sealed of with dullcoat again..Next step will be some chipping and scratches with a brush, highlights, streaks and grime.. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbutty Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Not had much modelling time of late, but the West End module is just about finished, weathering need on each roof. Ollie. 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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