Will's 1990ish Projects

[dj_crisp]

On 16/08/2022 at 10:09, sulzer71 said:

If you airbrush then I've recently been using Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 thinned with Mr Color Levelling thinner and it dries super flat and smooth

 

That's interesting... I'll try that next if I don't get on with Tamiya. Definitely going to skip Halfords white as soon as I've used up my supplies 

Thanks!

[Southwich]

On 17/08/2022 at 11:13, dj_crisp said:

 

That's interesting... I'll try that next if I don't get on with Tamiya. Definitely going to skip Halfords white as soon as I've used up my supplies 

Thanks!

Another +1 for Mr Finishing Surfacer! Excellent stuff - love the 1500 Black. Thanks to @Nick-L for the recommendation! 
 

Kind regards,

 

Will

Edited September 18, 2022 by Southwich

[dj_crisp]

No going back!

 

 

Layout stuff has been taking most of my time at present but for a change I've done a bit on my 116. I've tried out using some Tamiya white primer on the front and blue bits on teh side. I think Bachmann is using some super polished paint as when i spray the paint goes on really weird but somehow dries fairly flat. I probably put the white on a bit thick to get coverage so I'v sanded down the edges which is why it looks patchy.

 

 

This is a trial fit of a Dapol 122 cab roof and I'm attempting to do an early batch 116 with the extra markers made from plastikard tube and bit of chopped brass tube. It's not a bad fit and i've used a smidge of filler to line the cab roof to the rest of it and the hole lot has been superglued.

 

 

A spot of primer was then blasted over the roof to highlight a few areas that need fixing.... the join needs a bit more working and again my primer wasn't as smooth as i like.

 

 

 

 

 

I think it's getting there though. I'm pleased with the front as quite alot of filling was needed to remove the headlight and remove the handrails. Removing the refurbished grille has been really difficult - hopefully it looks ok when sprayed.

[Rich Papper]

Looing very good so far. Always a bit of an anxious moment the first pass of the razor saw!

Rich

[dj_crisp]

 

I've been slowly progressing Set L210 over the last month.... work just gets in the way of good modelling time!

 

 

Anyhow I think they're both now ready for some gloss around areas where transfers will go. One change to the 116 is that I've added some MJT shell vents... one of the benefits of posting online is others spotting things wrong! It did mean stripping the roof, lots of filing etc. but while there i also improved the cab roof join. I'm also still trying to perfect the art of painting black window surrounds. These have had the following attempts;

• Painting freehand - Big no! I'm rubbish with a paint brush!
• Painting with a brush but masked - Again no luck there despite me applying the paint quite dry it seeps under the masking tape
• I've also ruled out acrylics as I can't fix my messups as easily as enamels
• Went crazy and used a halfords rattle can (while doing the roofs) - had seepage issues
• the final choice was masking up using an airbrush and only applying very light coats. This with some fixing afterwards will be my chosen approach from now on and the one i did on the 116 (not the 101 though ;) )

I've also had some fun achieving straight lines....

 

Hopefully any signs of the side air vent have gone.....

 

 

 

This took a few coats of primer and several sanding sessions. I used Tamiya fine white primer (as recommended) and while it scared me when spraying it did dry very well and nice and flat with a tough finish. And it has an added benefit of looking to my eyes as white... rather like Bachmanns white.... ( i have sprayed more white on than needed to try and blend the finish. Removing the 117 guards handrails meant i needed to spray on some grey as i needed to sand bits flat and I think Railmatch NSE grey is a very good match.

 

Final paint has been the NSE Blue which went better than expected. but again I wasn't happy with my ability to paint straight lines so it's been "straightened" in a few sections by touching in with an airbrush.

 

 

 

I had planned on doing a 116 Blue/Grey DMBS but I'm proper fearful of messing that one up when removing the air vent grille (its the lining!!) So thats on hold and my research attempts at finding a 117 DMBS in Blue/Grey running as a hybrid haven't resulted in a single example so that project is on hold! Although I may just go for it in a mad moment.

 

So it's onto my most feared step - gloss varnish. I haven't decided on varnishing the lot or just the areas for transfers. But that might be a while off as I'll wait for a dry day with some sun!

 

Happy Modelling all!

 

 

[lyneux]

Lovely work Will!

 

Bit of a long shot, but are you coming to the Tolworth next month? It's close by for you, (I'm guessing?).

 

I'll be there with Oldshaw. If you get it finished in time and fancied an outing I can guarantee you some 'play time' on Oldshaw.

 

Guy

Edited October 27, 2022 by lyneux

[dj_crisp]

32 minutes ago, lyneux said:

Lovely work Will!

 

Bit of a long shot, but are you coming to the Tolworth next month? It's close by for you, (I'm guessing?).

 

I'll be there with Oldshaw. If you get it finished in time and fancied an outing I can guarantee you some 'play time' on Oldshaw.

 

Guy

 

Hi Guy.

 

It's a show I try to goto and always enjoy it. Hopefully on the Sunday provided I recover from my Saturday day out! Will definitely say hello if I make it.... (this one won't be finished but I might have a few items that could stretch their legs).

 

Cheers

Will

[Rich Papper]

Hi Will

That is a beautiful paint job - well done. Really enjoying following this - and not just because I haven't got around to mine yet! That said, I had amassed all the bits to do L210 with Hornby and Lima, but looking at yours I think it might need to be Bachmann based instead.

I've come a cropper with gloss a few times. My current choice is Humbrol acrylic clear brushed on where the transfers are going, and then very thin coats of army painter matt spray can to finish.

Best of luck.

Rich

[dj_crisp]

16 minutes ago, Rich Papper said:

Hi Will

That is a beautiful paint job - well done. Really enjoying following this - and not just because I haven't got around to mine yet! That said, I had amassed all the bits to do L210 with Hornby and Lima, but looking at yours I think it might need to be Bachmann based instead.

I've come a cropper with gloss a few times. My current choice is Humbrol acrylic clear brushed on where the transfers are going, and then very thin coats of army painter matt spray can to finish.

Best of luck.

Rich

 

Cheers Rich. I tempted with your tip and I'm warming to only gloss where I need to!

 

Its a fun project and I look forward to seeing yours! I prefer Bachmanns 117 which I think is ahead of the old lima one so well worth using that one. 

 

On the 101 i think its much closer. I like the Limby version and I think they've captured the side windows better than Bachmann. I think both benefit from a shawplan front window etch. I've also raided Bachmanns spares website for underframes which opens some opportunities!

 

Will

[DavidMcKenzie]

Just stumbled upon your thread, top stuff! I've only had time to read the last page and a half, but I will look forward to sitting down and going back through the rest when I get time.

 

All the best,

Dave 

[Rich Papper]

2 hours ago, dj_crisp said:

 

Cheers Rich. I tempted with your tip and I'm warming to only gloss where I need to!

 

Its a fun project and I look forward to seeing yours! I prefer Bachmanns 117 which I think is ahead of the old lima one so well worth using that one. 

 

On the 101 i think its much closer. I like the Limby version and I think they've captured the side windows better than Bachmann. I think both benefit from a shawplan front window etch. I've also raided Bachmanns spares website for underframes which opens some opportunities!

 

Will

 

Only question if I do though - I had intended the 116 from L210 and a 121 DTS conversion - but what to do with the spare centre car?

Rich

[dj_crisp]

50 minutes ago, Rich Papper said:

 

Only question if I do though - I had intended the 116 from L210 and a 121 DTS conversion - but what to do with the spare centre car?

Rich

 

It's a good question! I'm sure you want to save it for a future 115 project ;)

[dj_crisp]

59 minutes ago, DavidMcKenzie said:

Just stumbled upon your thread, top stuff! I've only had time to read the last page and a half, but I will look forward to sitting down and going back through the rest when I get time.

 

All the best,

Dave 

 

Thanks Dave

Hopefully there is something of interest for you. I haven't reinstated any of my old photos so if there's anything that'll help I'll see if I can find it on my PC.

[Rich Papper]

On 27/10/2022 at 22:56, dj_crisp said:

 

It's a good question! I'm sure you want to save it for a future 115 project ;)

 

I've done two 115 vehicles, but used Lima and Hornby bits so will probably have to match them if I get around to needing the other half.

Not ready to start again yet!

Rich

[dj_crisp]

In between traverser building I'm progressing a few DMU projects. 

 

I was proper annoyed with myself when I broke the exhaust on my NSE DMU. Sadly its not available as a spare so my only option was to attempt to repair.

 

 

The repair involved creating a splint using 0.33mm brass wire, gluing it with superglue then adding back a bit of the curve using filler. A splash of silver paint hopefully hides the repair. Front glazing is next and I'm hopeful of some shawplan laserglaze in the near future.

 

I've also been playing with my 121 DTS by adding bufferbeam details and starting to weather the roof (the body will be done when I apply transfers). Although I got a strange white streak effect from brush painting using acrylics so it'll have another coat soon.

 

 

As I plan on running my bubblecar solo I've gone for screw link couplings.

 

 

These weren't a great success when used with the hooks provided by Bachmann. So I've fitted a smiths hook and used the rest of Bachmann dummy coupling for aesthetic reasons on the bubble and a full smiths screw link on the DTS. This seems more reliable based on my tests and time will tell whether this is an acceptable solution.

 

I'm quite pleased with how the 121 2 car DMU project is going.

 

Cheers for reading!

[mullie]

I use the Hornby screw links as dummies on my S&W fitted locos, quite happy with them. They are easily obtainable too.

 

Martyn

[dj_crisp]

There are days when I find it hard to enjoy this hobby.... well to be precise I'm more frustrated with my lack of ability in it. Today it's electronics...

 

 

I'm attempting to wire up some lights for my class 67. All was going well... managed to wire in red lights and so went onto the top markers. Frustratingly it flickered a bit when illuminating the other end or tails... was bright when switched on. I can't see why but its a common problem I have and i cant see a stray wire or similar.

 

Anyhow it gets worse as I now have the tails being illuminated ok then fading to nothing then won't illuminate. Arggghhhh! I'm suspecting I've killed the decoder. 

 

So I've decided I'm not up to this electronics malarkey. Anyone know someone who produces a warm white class 67 kit... with seperate markers, night, day and tail lights?

 

 

[Rich Papper]

Never used them personally, but have seen Illuminated Models kits recommended by others on here in the past. Sells on eBay.

 

Can't see a 67 specific one, but this 66 one might be modifiable: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225190679456?hash=item346e6913a0:g:hbsAAOSwo6FjPEeK

 

Totally with you on the electronics. I am competent enough to put in new lights - have even done door open lights on more modern DMUs and made illuminated destination blinds on older ones (Bachmann copied me) - but then when it comes to the chip, if when I connect blue to blue and yellow to yellow and nothing happens I haven't the slightest idea why. I have binned tangles of wires and LEDs and just started again in the past!

 

Good luck.

Rich

[dj_crisp]

18 minutes ago, Rich Papper said:

Never used them personally, but have seen Illuminated Models kits recommended by others on here in the past. Sells on eBay.

 

Can't see a 67 specific one, but this 66 one might be modifiable: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225190679456?hash=item346e6913a0:g:hbsAAOSwo6FjPEeK

 

Totally with you on the electronics. I am competent enough to put in new lights - have even done door open lights on more modern DMUs and made illuminated destination blinds on older ones (Bachmann copied me) - but then when it comes to the chip, if when I connect blue to blue and yellow to yellow and nothing happens I haven't the slightest idea why. I have binned tangles of wires and LEDs and just started again in the past!

 

Good luck.

Rich

Thanks Rich

 

I'm going to send a message to see if there are illuminated markers on that one as a seperate function... as that could work

[dj_crisp]

So I'm trying to not be defeated and so I'm now looking at illuminating 101 trailers.

 

 

 

My original plan was to use the Bachmann circuit board and hotwire a decoder in.... but this seemed beyond me so I thought I'd try a light bar with function outputs instead. The lighting itself works well and with the capacitor provides a nice constant brightness - this is great as it doesn't require much effort! Pick ups are soldered to the Bachmann pickups on the bogies and with some extra weight in it seems to run quite nicely and doesn't appear to be missing the old circuit board with spung contacts.

 

So onto the head/tail lights;

 

 

 

Mixed success I suppose! The board is a copper clad sleeper that I've scraped away some copper to allow me to fit dual warm white/red LEDs. Surprisingly it works ok but on first go was too bright with a 1k resistor. Anyhow I thought no worries I'll tone it down with the decoder - and all i get is flickering. I think this is down to the type of resistance the decoder uses? I really don't know - anyhow I have them wiith 2 1k resistors in serial and while it's too bright the light seems constant. I guess i could just use higher resistors ?? I don't know if anyone has a preferred value of resistance?

 

All of this has me thinking that maybe my 67 problems is due to using resistance in the decoder.... one to explore

 

 

 

 

[Steadfast]

It's crude, but what about some paint over the LED to dim it? Try different colours and opacities on some clear packaging and hold it over the lit LED to find the right colour. Then either paint the LED or the clear lense. I've done it on a few models to make bright white LEDs warmer while also dulling the light 

 

Jo

Edited November 18, 2022 by Steadfast

[dj_crisp]

1 hour ago, Steadfast said:

It's crude, but what about some paint over the LED to dim it? Try different colours and opacities on some clear packaging and hold it over the lit LED to find the right colour. Then either paint the LED or the clear lense. I've done it on a few models to make bright white LEDs warmer while also dulling the light 

 

Jo

 

Hi Jo

 

It's not a bad idea though and worse case some masking tape might do the trick. I've previously tried some clear yellow glass paint to tone a few down in the past but these have always been a bit yellow. When I did my 66s I noticed that without their covering box they were really bright so I might try something similar 

 

Cheers 

Will

[Steadfast]

The paints I used were bog standard Railmatch enamels. A wash of brake dust I think it was gave some white LEDs a nice warm glow.

 

Jo

[Jack374]

Hi Will,

 

For tiny surface mount LEDs, I normally go with 10k. I’d maybe recommend getting some 5k to allow you to experiment anywhere between 1k and 10k+, without stringing together 10 individual resistors! Jo makes a great point, I usually paint all but the face of the LED facing forwards black, which helps with light bleed too. I also paint the back of the copperclad which can help with light bleed if this is an issue.

 

Masking tape works well too I find, and you can alter the layers and types to get the tone and brightness you want. I usually use standard decorator's white/cream tape to tone down white LEDs, and Tamiya yellow tape where a warmer tone is required.

 

Good luck!

Jack.

[dj_crisp]

2 hours ago, Jack374 said:

Hi Will,

 

For tiny surface mount LEDs, I normally go with 10k. I’d maybe recommend getting some 5k to allow you to experiment anywhere between 1k and 10k+, without stringing together 10 individual resistors! Jo makes a great point, I usually paint all but the face of the LED facing forwards black, which helps with light bleed too. I also paint the back of the copperclad which can help with light bleed if this is an issue.

 

Masking tape works well too I find, and you can alter the layers and types to get the tone and brightness you want. I usually use standard decorator's white/cream tape to tone down white LEDs, and Tamiya yellow tape where a warmer tone is required.

 

Good luck!

Jack.

 

Thanks Jack. 

 

Interesting.... I think I may have to up my resistance and try out some 10k resistors

 

Thanks for posting

Will